(Re)learning how to ski on Colorado’s most scenic mountain tops

(photo: Simone Olivero)

When you grow up skiing hills on the outskirts of Toronto, the thought of speeding down an actual mountain—especially one that’s perched up 11,570 feet—can be just a little intimidating. But in Colorado, that’s the main draw.

With close to 30 ski areas spread out across the state, skiing isn’t just a recreational sport, it’s a lifestyle.

I try to remember this while I’m sitting on the gondola my first day at Vail, as we head up, up and up some more. Aside from the altitude, it’s been about 18 years since I last strapped on a pair of ski boots. But once I see the sea of snowy peaks open up before me, my panic shifts to excitement.

While Colorado offers an assortment of mountains, runs and resorts, I opt to take advantage of the Epic Pass, a multi-mountain card that gets you access to a dozen resorts, including Vail, Breckenridge, Keystone, Park City, and even Perisher in Australia. After such an extensive absence from the sport, having a few options seems like a good idea.

Vail

Vail is located a quick drive from Eagle airport, just west of Denver, and with direct flights from Toronto (via Air Canada), it’s never been easier to get a taste of that Rocky mountain powder.

Snow covered trees line some of the the ungroomed runs on the way up the mountain. (photo: Simone Olivero)

Okay, so back to the gondola. While there was definitely an urge to skip the skiing and spend the rest of my day curled up in front of a fireplace with a glass of wine, après-ski-style, I was surprised how much the peaks drew me in. This was a real mountain, and at 5,289 acres, it’s the third largest resort in America. I knew I would kick myself later if I didn’t at least give it a try.

While more advanced skiers head here for the (mostly black diamond) back bowl runs, there are plenty of picturesque runs suitable for beginner and intermediate skiers, as well. On my first day, I stick to mostly green hills and my Epic Mix—an app that not only tracks your ski stats, but also has maps, weather conditions and any photos taken by the photographers on the hill—clocks me in at close to 8,000 vertical feet.

Not bad for a practical first-timer.

Women’s programs

One of the newest draws at Vail are the ski programs designed specifically for women.

My Ultimate 4 women’s group with instructor Kim in blue in the middle. (photo: EpicMix)

After noticing a dip in the number of ladies on the slopes, the resort created lessons, events and outings specifically for women to get them back out on the powder.

One of the most popular is the Women’s Ultimate 4, an intimate, four person group lesson lead by a female instructor and (mostly) targeted to moms with children in ski school. Starting later than a typical lesson and ending a little earlier, it allows women that extra bit of time to drop off and pickup the kids before and after school. While I wasn’t traveling with any kids, I take advantage of the small group setting and put my faith in Kim to revitalize whatever skills I may have hiding in muscle memory.

For more advanced skiers, the Max 3 half-day lessons help women refine their skills in a small, three-person group environment. If you opt for the Max 3, be sure to do it on a Friday so you can partake in Women and Wine FAC (Friday Afternoon Club), an après-ski complimentary glass of wine at the foot of the mountain.

Fueling

All of that skiing certainly works up an appetite, so it’s lucky Vail is well-equipped with tons of delicious restaurant options. I indulge my first night at Elway’s , an elegant restaurant named after former Denver Bronco quarterback, John Elway. While the steaks are great, one of the best parts of eating here is the massive bonfire outside, where you can roast your own marshmallows.

Bol’s Colorado mule. (photo: Simone Olivero)

Another night I head to Bol, an upscale lounge backed by an elegant bowling alley. If my skills are lacking in skiing, I manage to pull a pretty impressive bowling game, while taking advantage of the extensive cocktail list. My choice: a Colorado mule made with Stranahan’s whiskey, Leopold brothers alpine liquor, ginger beer and lemon, which is served in a traditional copper cup.

If you’re feeling fancy while you’re on the slopes, The 10th is the ultimate indulgence, with complimentary slippers so you can take a (much needed) break from your ski boots and enjoy the panoramic view of the Gore Range over gourmet salads, burgers, pizzas and hot chocolate. Don’t skimp on the truffle fries, which are topped with black truffle aioli, herbed parmesan and white truffle essence.

Pizza from the 10th. (photo: Simone Olivero)

Breckenridge

After two days at Vail I make my way to Breckenridge, about an hour’s drive east. The former gold mining town was developed in the 1800s and has a totally different feel to Vail—I’m also told it’s where they filmed “Dumb and Dumber” because it actually looks more like Aspen than Aspen.

Breckenridge has a very local, homegrown All-American vibe. It’s difficult to explain how exactly, but as you’re wandering along the main street strip, where live music spills out of bars and the windows at Breck Create get splashed with glitter as people craft over cocktails, you definitely get it.

Participating in the longest shotski at Ullr Fest — it was research! (photo: Simone Olivero)

And then there’s Ullr Fest, a winter festival dedicated to the Norse god of winter, which takes place every January and involves the longest shotski (a literal shot taken off a ski) in the world, a massive bonfire and one of the most bizarre parades I’ve ever seen. This town doesn’t skimp on festivities.

Way up high

On the mountain, the obvious draw is the impressive spread of peaks — ten of them, which stretch out over ten miles. We spend most of our day trying to hit up peaks six through 10, the skiable ones, and even catch a glimpse of the Imperial Express SuperChair, the highest chair lift in North America reaching an elevation of 12,840 above sea level.

Skiing my first black diamond hill, Upper Four O’Clock, with the Imperial Express SuperChair visible in the distance. (photo: Simone Olivero)

While my confidence is up after my lessons at Vail, I don’t quite know if I’m ready for such great heights and end up experiencing my first fall of the trip. It’s not a total yard sale, but I do manage to pop out of my skis just below the steepest part of Northstar, an advanced blue run, and spend a minute catching my breath while a gang of snowboarders catch air overhead—just (barely) missing me.

Despite the fear of getting a board to the head, this also gives me a minute to take in the scenery. The runs at Breck are more narrow than Vail, with offshoots into the woods that create a choose-your-own-adventure-type of ride. For the first time since I’ve arrived in Colorado I start to understand the appeal of winter and how having all of this snow when you’re a place like is a blessing compared to the pain of trekking through the slushy Toronto streets.

The names of the runs can be quite telling at Breck. (photo: Simone Olivero)

On my last day, heading down the hill on the gondola, I take a minute to reflect on the past week and admit that I’m sad to leave the mountains. After four days, four lessons and two mountains, I’ve managed to advance from beginner to a level five skier—in a nine-level system. I’ve learned how to link turns, keep a parallel stance, manage speed and master a hockey stop. But more than that, I’ve gained a new appreciation for the sport and winter sports in general.

As I beeline towards the nearest fireplace, glass of Merlot in hand like I had hoped to that first day heading up the mountain, I now do it with a new sense of appreciation. Not just for skiing, but for the beauty that is Colorado and how in these mountains I rediscovered my love of winter.