I rode the Amtrak Cascades train to Canada. You’ll want to get a ticket

Maybe you’ve heard by now that the Amtrak Cascades route is back operating in its entirety — offering passenger service from Eugene, Oregon, all the way up to Vancouver, B.C.

It’s a famously scenic route along the coast of the Pacific Northwest that offers consistent ocean views.

The portion of the route from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C., was suspended in March of 2020 when the border closed due to COVID. It just reopened for travelers on Monday, Sept. 26.

I got the chance to ride the train on its reopening day from the Bellingham station to Vancouver, B.C., and back.

There were a few bumps and first-day snags, but it was worth it.

My ticket cost $28 for the round trip. Amtrak recommends purchasing tickets ahead of time as trains can fill up quickly. My train was about 70% full on opening day.

Bellingham Herald visual journalist Rachel Showalter on the Amtrak Cascades train Monday, Sept. 26, leaving Bellingham for Vancouver, B.C.
Bellingham Herald visual journalist Rachel Showalter on the Amtrak Cascades train Monday, Sept. 26, leaving Bellingham for Vancouver, B.C.

Boarding the train in Bellingham was fairly simple. Riders can walk right onto the platform from the parking lot just before the train arrives at 9:52 a.m.

I had to fill out the ArriveCAN App before boarding and bring a mask on the train. But as of Saturday, Oct. 1, Canada no longer requires that of visitors.

My ticket was for coach, so I boarded that section and picked a window seat. For a few extra dollars, passengers can ride the more spacious business class.

Amtrak staff checked my passport, ID, and ticket once aboard. Then, I had to fill out a Declaration Card, which was given to me on the train. Had I brought luggage on my trip, Amtrak has options for stowing or overhead placement.

The train has a fully operating cafe onboard with things such as coffee, hot meals, snacks and desserts.

The views leaving the station were beautiful as the train followed the Bellingham waterfront. But the route quickly goes inland as it heads north, with not much to look at — aside from farmland — until you reach the border.

A rocky stretch of beach is visible through the window of the train along the Amtrak Cascades route on Monday, Sept. 26, in White Rock, B.C.
A rocky stretch of beach is visible through the window of the train along the Amtrak Cascades route on Monday, Sept. 26, in White Rock, B.C.

Riders and Amtrak officials both told me the most scenic part of the route is between Mt. Vernon and Bellingham. So I might have to take a ride south.

According to Amtrak, passengers might even be able to do some bird watching while aboard the train as bald eagles and golden eagles mate along the route.

Once over the border, the train rolls along the coast of White Rock, B.C., before moving through Surrey, crossing over the Fraser River and into Vancouver.

The views of the city, waterways and bridges are great, especially as the train slows its speed through the more metropolitan areas.

The train ends its journey at Pacific Central Station in Vancouver, B.C., where the passengers are greeted by Customs Agents upon arrival.

Boats sit in False Creek across from the Olympic Village in Vancouver, B.C., on Monday, Sept. 26.
Boats sit in False Creek across from the Olympic Village in Vancouver, B.C., on Monday, Sept. 26.

I showed my documents again and submitted my Declaration Card at Customs before exiting the station around 12:15 p.m.

A ten-minute walk led me straight to the city’s Olympic Village, ripe with activities and restaurants.

If I hadn’t been on the clock, I might have rented a kayak or explored more of the city via SkyTrain. Instead, I found myself a cafe with WiFi and a water’s edge view to enjoy while I worked.

Right now, Amtrak only has one daily round-trip service from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. The return train leaves Pacific Central at 5:45 p.m., so I set an alarm for 5:15 p.m. — a decision I would later regret.

By the time I made it back to Pacific Central at 5:25 p.m., I figured I had plenty of time to board my return train.

Unknown to me, Amtrak and Customs staff close the entry gate in the station 15 minutes before train departure. Plus, passengers are required to fill out a Declaration Card in the station before boarding.

I frantically filled out the forms and made it aboard on time. But if you plan on taking the same trip, learn from my mistake. Be at the gate 30 minutes before departure to avoid missing your train, especially while there is only one daily trip.

The Science World museum sits on False Creek, a short walk from Pacific Central Station, in Vancouver, B.C., on Monday, Sept. 26.
The Science World museum sits on False Creek, a short walk from Pacific Central Station, in Vancouver, B.C., on Monday, Sept. 26.

We were meant to depart by 5:45 p.m. but it was closer to 6:15 p.m. with freight traffic holding us up. I had hoped to catch a coastal sunset that night but darkness fell quickly as delays became the theme of the return trip.

It took us two hours longer than expected to get back to Bellingham. As I learned through a conversation with Amtrak officials in the train’s cafe that night, their passenger trains run on freight lines. Oftentimes, passengers can experience delays when scheduling conflicts with other trains.

Plus, this return trip requires a stop at the border where patrol agents board and check passenger documents.

So, Amtrak encourages riders to give themselves plenty of time to get to their next stop.

As one official told me, “If you need to go fast, take the plane. If you need to go cheap, take the bus. The train is about enjoying the trip.”