Royal Ascot adds navy morning suits to men's dress code marking first major change in over 200 years
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It was the early 19th Century when Beau Brummell, the confidant of the future King George IV, declared “men of elegance” should wear “waisted black coats and white cravats with Pantaloons” when attending the races.
But now, more than 200 years later, Royal Ascot is having its biggest shake up ever in men’s formalwear, and allowing racegoers to wear navy morning suits in the Royal Enclosure for the first time.
“Playful” ties and waistcoats will also be allowed this year, but “novelty and branded or promotional clothing” is not permitted. Patterns of a patriotic nature, such as a national flag, are acceptable.
“Royal Ascot sets the trends for event dressing across the summer season and this change to the Dress Code recognises an emerging trend in formal menswear as we allow navy morning dress in the Royal Enclosure for the first time,” said Juliet Slot, Chief Commercial Officer, Ascot Racecourse.
Changes to the dress code at Royal Ascot typically relate to womenswear, for example in 2017 jumpsuits were permitted in the Royal Enclosure for the first time.
But after receiving feedback from racegoers, the fashion industry and working with menswear partners, it was decided navy morning suits should form part of a dress code update. Until now, they have always had to be black and grey, with many opting for pinstripe trousers on those colours.
To celebrate the sartorial first, Favourbrook - an official licensee of Royal Ascot - were commissioned to design a navy “Furlong” morning suit as part of a capsule collection for 2021.
Oliver Spencer, Favourbrook Founder, said: “Given Brummell’s history with the event and his preference for a blue coat, we were keen to create a navy morning suit in superfine merino that honoured the traditional cut and silhouette.
“There is an elegant minimalism to it that reaffirms Brummell’s own desire to be noticed without drawing attention to himself.”
“There hasn’t been anything added to the Royal Ascot dress code for decades, so this is a big turning point for menswear. I think it is a much needed update for the Royal Ascot Dress code,” Mr Spencer added.
Men's formalwear at Ascot has been adhered to since the late 1700s when George Bryan “Beau” Brummell first decreed what rules they must follow. He is known to have favoured tailored, bespoke, items and disliked overly ornate pieces.
Then in 1830, Queen Victoria’s visit to Royal Ascot saw her arrive in a pretty lace dress with a full bell skirt and shawl. She also started a craze for the porter bonnet, shielding the wearer from male eyes.
At the turn of the century, the tone became more celebratory, with shorter skirts and dresses with angular hips and puffed sleeves. Hats were large and full of feathers and adornments.
In the 1950s newly crowned Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret wore Christian Dior’s “New Look” - a small, nipped in waist and full skirt - and are said to have cemented the style in history.
In 1971 trouser suits were added to the dress code for women after they had grown in popularity. But it wasn’t until 2012 when Royal Ascot officially launched its Style Guide for racegoers, outlining the dress code for the Royal Enclosure and Queen Anne Enclosure.
This year’s Favourbrook collection also includes patterned waistcoats, ties and pocket squares. The designs allow racegoers to “have a little bit of fun” with their outfits but without it being “garish”, it is understood.
Bow ties and cravats are still forbidden from the Royal Enclosure.
“We have chosen soft pastel colours that merge together, they are playful in the sense of looking like one colour from far away but when seen up close they are more playful. Soft colours are very chic and easy to wear,” Mr Spencer said.
The event, which ran behind closed doors last year for the first time in its history, is part of the Government’s Events Research Programme, meaning 12,000 spectators are allowed to attend.
As part of the pilot, attendees must produce a negative lateral flow test before the day, or on the day, the enter the racecourse. They are also asked to carry out another test post-event.
Current Covid restrictions will not apply, meaning guests do not need to social distance or wear face masks. They can also sit at tables of up to 10 people.
But if they chose to wear a mask, it must also be in line with the dress code. “Face coverings were included in the Royal Ascot Style Guide this year and we ask that they are of a tasteful nature and selected with the same considerations in mind as when choosing a hat, waistcoat or tie to ensure it isn’t deemed to be novelty,” a spokeswoman said.
