SC’s national park: A joyful adventure through cathedral trees, hearing songbirds call
Perhaps you have seen the great cathedrals of Europe, the mighty temples of Asia or the towering mosques of the Middle East. These structures can be breathtaking in how they capture light and shadow, magnify voices in prayer and song or fill the mind and heart with a sense of grandeur.
You do not have to travel across the wide world to experience these things, however, for there is such a majestic place right here in the heart of the South Carolina Lowcountry. Cedar Creek is a quiet stream that meanders through the heart of the deep swamp in Congaree National Park, where buttress-like trees capture light and air while the calls of songbirds echo like sweet prayers in the branches above. And all of this is within easy reach by canoe or kayak for a day of joyful adventure.
Cedar Creek rises from the sandy bluffs of the Midlands to make its way through once-virgin cypress and tupelo forest of Congaree National Park, and it is the main avenue for waterborne exploration of this natural wonder. While many sections of the 26,276-acre national park have been logged in the past, a number of areas remain untouched and even contain “champion” record trees that seem to touch the very sky. Cedar Creek will allow you to get close to some of these, at least to give a sense of what primeval forest is like — and all within a few hours of home.
Congaree National Park is the only national park in South Carolina, and it attracts thousands of visitors every year. Most come for the nearly 20 miles of hiking trails and boardwalks that can be enjoyed in almost any season — and are a magnet for those who wish to view migratory birds. There is primitive camping, a well-managed interpretive center, and ranger-led tours and events throughout the year, including guided hiking and kayak tours as well as viewings of the annual “firefly show.” This magical event is merely an opportunity to view thousands of lightning bugs flashing in their complicated and colorful sequences, dazzling the eye and mind.
One of the best ways to enjoy Congaree National Park is to take a paddling trip along Cedar Creek. This waterway offers up to 15 miles of self-guided, ranger-led or outfitter-managed paddling trips that will take you through canyons of the wooded glory of the majestic trees and scenery of the swamp. This can be done as an out-and-back paddle from the landing on Cedar Creek Road near Gadsden or a one-way trip with shuttle putting in at Old Bluff Road. The one-way trip is approximately six miles but often extends to eight or nine with twists, turns and side explorations. The soft brown water will carry you along in a quiet rush near the head of the stream and will slow as you enter the deeper reaches of the forest. The canoe trail is well marked with signs, and there are unmistakable milestones such as boardwalks and bridges where trails cross, but the route can be tricky. The water level rises and falls with the season and weather, sometimes dramatically. It is best to call ahead to Congaree National Park and check on conditions before making your trip.
Recently, I paddled Cedar Creek through Congaree National Park with a group of friends. We launched at Old Bluff for the one-way trip to Cedar Creek Road. A cloudy early spring day soon turned to blazing sun as we eased beneath the shadows of towering trees. Songbirds and woodpeckers made their usual racket, and the calls of raptors, including hawk and barred owl, made known the avian presence. We paddled beneath friendly hikers on wooden bridges and explored the silent reach of Wise Lake. It was a day truly worth the time and a trip that we long to do again.
If you spend a day in Congaree National Park along Cedar Creek, you will not be disappointed. A treasure that rivals the great locations of the world awaits you in the heart of South Carolina.
Getting there
Congaree National Park is located near Gadsden and is about 2 1/2 hours from the Beaufort area. Take I-95 north to I-26 to exit 145, Hwy 601/St. Matthews Road. Pass through the small town of St. Matthews and, 9 miles further, turn right onto SC-48W. You will see signs for Congaree National Park. The Old Bluff put-in is a “toss in” ramp near a dirt parking area. The take-out is at the end of Cedar Creek Road, and it has ample parking but requires kayaks to be carried to the water. If you go, be sure to monitor the weather and bring appropriate bug repellent and water. It is highly recommended that you contact Congaree National Park for current conditions and to inquire about any restrictions. The creek is managed well, but there are often deadfalls and downed obstructions that may require short portages or maneuvers to navigate around. While this is not a difficult paddle, it requires planning and can try the skills of beginners. The Park is located at 100 National Park Road, Hopkins, SC 29061. Call 803-776-4396 or visit Canoe Trail Information - Congaree National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
