Short ribs slide off the bone at this new Phoenix restaurant. Here's what to order first
Aftermath shares a name with a thrash metal band and promotes itself on social media with videos that look like deleted scenes from "The Witch." It seems like the brand-new concept by rock star restaurateur Charles Barber Jr. is going for a goth vibe in uptown Phoenix.
Barber was one half of the duo behind the wildly popular Hush Public House, which made many Phoenix best new restaurants lists for 2019 and garnered a rave 4.5 star review from former Arizona Republic critic Dominic Armato. Before striking out on his own, Barber created the restaurant, ran the bar program and managed, while Dom Ruggiero was in charge of Hush's kitchen.
Now Barber has teamed up with friend Dave Bowman, the former executive chef of Zinc Bistro, a Scottsdale restaurant that also comes with pedigree.
Though they both come from upper crust Scottsdale restaurants, this new concept has decidedly grittier marketing. Barber and Bowman have some serious swagger in Instagram photos where they sport all black with dark sunglasses in front of Aftermath-themed graffiti.
The show this weekend was full of powerful moments that made me want to get my cell phone out and use it as a torch to light up the room. This is partly because of the inspired flavors, but also because it was so dark I could barely see the food on my plate.
Cocktails and decor are more classic than heavy metal
The darkness of Aftermath's dining room is punctuated by glowing candles, and the intimate, industrial chic space has white brick walls and exposed ceiling beams that give it more of a sophisticated look than the hipster metal glam I imagined it would be. The music was toned down to the point that it didn't play a part in the dining experience.
The cocktails were downright tame. Both my gin Marigold and my dining partner's bourbon Old Fashioned came in rocks glasses with little to no garnish and were subtle, dominated respectively by pineapple juice and demerara simple syrup.
Other cocktail options include approachable classics like a highball made with Botanist Gin, lime and a touch of California absinthe and a sidecar made with cognac and Alessio Bianco Vermouth.
Barber explained that the bar program was struggling with staffing issues, so he chose to pare the menu down to drinks that could be made in a timely manner. He said to expect more experimentation as the restaurant comes into its own.
For now, the wow factor is on the food menu.
What's on the menu at Aftermath?
On the elevated gastropub menu, cheffy bar snacks like bone marrow popcorn and beef fat fries share space with sweet corn bisque and grilled broccolini with smoked parmesan and a fish sauce caramel. A single dish can bridge several cultures, speaking to the eclecticism of our contemporary food landscape.
All of the plates I tasted were super interesting, both visually and thematically, though my favorite of the night was the roasted baby beets. Presented beautifully, the plump root veggies had a Nordic flare, served with airy rye crackers over a creamy spread of fresh cow's milk Boursin cheese.
The tour de force of the sharable plates menu was the monster bowl of bread-crumb-bombed mac and cheese dubbed the 'After'mac.' The leek-tinged brew of Muenster and Velveeta, which can be seen spilling out of its pot on Instagram, can be topped with beefy taco filling suadero for an extra $6.
I opted for the grilled hamachi collar and a pickled stir fry of Asian vegetables. The fatty cheek of the massive fish was still clinging to one of its fins and the burnt flavors of the Indonesian sweet soy kecap manis glaze were on point.
I can tell the chef knows what he's doing when it comes to beef, because the chile braised bone-in short rib was downright masterful. It was one of those glorious hunks of meat that when picked up slides right off the bone and, in this case, into a spunky green harissa sauce underneath. The sauce looked like pesto and had the sour funk of an Indian chutney, so it stood up well to the fatty meat and plump beluga lentils.
Barber and Bowman have big plans for Aftermath, including expanding to a second dining room, adding an oyster bar and even opening a second location in Gilbert. And after opening weekend, I'm glad to hear it. Food this good deserves to go on tour.
Aftermath Bar & Kitchen
Where: 1534 E. Bethany Home Road, Phoenix.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. or close Wednesday through Saturday; Closed Sunday through Tuesday.
Price: Bar snacks $6; sharable plates $12-$19; entrees $18-$42.
Details: 602-607-5240, aftermathphoenix.com.
Reach reporter Andi Berlin at amberlin@azcentral.com or 602-444-8533. Follow her on Facebook @andiberlin, Instagram @andiberlin or Twitter @andiberlin.
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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Aftermath is a new Phoenix restaurant from the co-founder of Hush
