Sea Cloud II cruise review: the sweetness of doing nothing
Let us introduce you to a new, sophisticated way of cruising. You don't travel on a giant liner carrying 5,000 noisy passengers, but on a beautiful windjammer ship, where the only sounds are the wind, waves and the occasional clink of ice in a cocktail glass.
We set sail on the gorgeous Sea Cloud II – one of the three vessels in the Sea Cloud Cruises fleet – on a voyage around Sicily, stopping at many historic sites en route. Just 117 metres long, this immaculately-crafted, wooden-decked ship accommodates a maximum of 94 guests and is powered by 24 sails; the ultimate in eco-friendly, sleek, silent sea travel. Be prepared to glide noiselessly towards relaxation.
The cabins
The theme of old-world elegance permeates Sea Cloud II and the interiors seem to be channelling "Downton Abbey", from the bed flanked by peach silk curtains to the lacquered walnut bureau. Also, when you return to your bedroom every afternoon, you find your duvet sculpted into every imaginable type of sail.
Beside the gilt-edged mirror, a single lily is pinned to the wall in a test tube filled with water. Poseidon is all in the details. The best aspect of the bedroom is its three large arched windows – none of your tiny porthole nonsense here. The thrill of waking up every morning to a vast expanse of glittering sea never gets old.
Eating and drinking
The food, which was served either in the stately dining room or (my personal preference) at the bar on the lovely aft deck, was equally splendid. An astonishing array of fresh fare was on offer every day. I don't know what time the cooks had to get up to prepare this, but one lunchtime we arrived at the table to be given a choice of – look away now, vegetarians – an entire roast pig or a whole giant grilled grouper fish.
Entertainment
There is no theatre on board the ship, but after dinner on deck one night, there was a sea shanty concert performed by the 60 crew members, who hail from 16 different nations. It may sound irredeemably naff, but it is in fact tremendous fun. As we join in with sea shanties from as far afield as the Philippines and Germany, as well as the inevitable "My Bonnie Lies over the Ocean" and "What Shall We Do with the Drunken Sailor?", it is a terrific bonding moment. By the time we were all singing along to the Rod Stewart's 1975 hit "Sailing" – can you hear me, can you hear me, through the dark night, far away? – there was scarcely a dry eye on the ship.
Activities
You are not overwhelmed with activities on Sea Cloud II, and to the undoubted relief of many, there are no compulsory basket weaving or macramé classes here. But a history expert does give fascinating daily lectures about the places you will visit during the voyage.
Perhaps the most rewarding on-board activity, however, is to watch the crew unfurl the sails. It is an awe-inspiring sight as the dozen-strong sail crew hit the rig, scamper up the three masts like extras from "Pirates of the Caribbean" and unclip the sails. It is all done at a speed that would make Captain Jack Sparrow's head spin.
The senior officer is on hand to explain the ritual to us, and before you can say "Master and Commander", we are able to distinguish our "flying jib" from our "bowsprit" and our "middle gaff" from our "upper spanker" (no tittering at the back, please). As the sails puff out their cheeks with pride, you're transported not only across the sea, but also back to a more refined, bygone era. It is a surprisingly moving experience.
Excursions
As if being on the boat wasn't enough of a joy, the stop-offs in Sicily open up a captivating treasure trove of historical gems. The Italian island has a dizzying history. Since 800 BC, it has been ruled by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Barbarians, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, French, Aragonese, Spanish and Austrians – do keep up. The merry-go-round was only halted when Giuseppe Garibaldi set foot on Sicily in 1860 and began the reunification of Italy.
Each civilisation has added another layer to Sicily's intoxicatingly rich culture. That fusion is evident in the stunning Royal Palace in Palermo, a complex of nine Normans buildings which form a Unesco World Heritage site. It is an astounding melange of Western, Byzantine and Islamic artistic traditions.
On another day, Sea Cloud II dropped us off at the foot of Mount Etna, Europe's most active volcano. With alarming frequency, lava bursts through the Earth's crust at the top of the mountain. Usually that crust is 100km deep, but here it is a mere 50km.
Mount Etna, which is also, quite unexpectedly, home to two ski resorts, last erupted in August. On a ride that makes a rollercoaster seem smooth, we were driven in a very sturdy bus towards the summit of Etna, which was pumping out smoke like a factory during the Industrial Revolution. Having travelled from 30C heat at sea level to -5C at the peak of Etna, we are in ski jackets and gloves. It all feels very primal and otherworldly. It is no surprise to hear that these lava fields were used for testing Mars Rovers.
Sea Cloud II also stops at Trapani, the Lipari islands, Taormina, where many visitors seem to be on a "White Lotus" pilgrimage, and Syracuse, where the prevailing style of architecture could best be summed up by the phrase: "If it ain't baroque, don't fix it."
The verdict
On this beautiful ship, you can simply sail away from your everyday stresses and strains. It is extremely soothing to be in an environment where the only decision you have to make each day is whether to have white or rosé with your red snapper. Travelling on the Sea Cloud II is the perfect opportunity to live out the classic Italian saying: “Il dolce, far niente.” The sweetness of doing nothing.
James Rampton was a guest of Sea Cloud Cruises, which offers trips on its vessels Sea Cloud, Sea Cloud II, and Sea Cloud Spirit. Mediterranean cruises aboard Sea Cloud II start from €2,385 (£2,057/$2,518) per person; seacloud.com
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