Secluded new Fresno cocktail bar has a tiny sign and is reservation only. Here’s why

If downtown Fresno cocktail bar Modernist is an extrovert — lively, loud and social — then its new sister bar is an introvert.

That’s how owner Carmen Serrato describes Bespoke, the craft cocktail spot on Fulton Street that she and partner Po Tsai just launched.

The bar is small, with dim lighting, a fireplace and a comfy leather couch. It’s quiet enough to have a conversation without shouting. And you need a reservation to get in the door.

“You’re here with your group, you’re having an intimate experience,” Serrato said of the vibe. “It’s your time to be taken care of.”

Bespoke is next door to Modernist in the Brewery District, and it’s in the early stages of opening.

Its sign is tiny — a gold plaque just a couple inches wide. Serrato tells people to look for the green double doors first. Just inside is a little foyer where you’ll be greeted before being escorted into the main bar.

The former storage spot in a historic building has been transformed. There’s lots of dark wood and brick, candles and velvet seating.

Bespoke has a speakeasy vibe — but the bar is not a speakeasy, Serrato is quick to note. (A true speakeasy has a hidden entrance, maybe an unmarked door or a password.)

Shortly after arriving, you’ll be given a complimentary welcome pour — a drinkable amuse-bouche (literally translating to something that amuses the mouth). It’s a tiny glass of something liquid and luscious that doubles as an example of what Bespoke can do.

What does Bespoke mean?

As for the bar’s name, Serrato cites the dictionary definition of bespoke — something made especially to the needs of an individual, like a suit.

Here, they apply that philosophy to cocktails.

There’s no cocktail menu. Instead, bartender Sam Jackson or another server will ask you what kind of drinks you like, what spirit — do you want to taste the alcohol, or would you prefer the flavors be more nuanced?

“From there we’ll just have a conversation with you about what types of drinks you enjoy,” he said. “We specialize in making cocktails that are tailored to your taste.”

And he’ll come up with a drink for you.

Kitted out in a vest and tie, Jackson might suggest a cocktail that’s totally new. You can still get classic cocktails here — or a new twist on a classic.

There are dozens of drink recipes in these bartenders’ heads. The ones who worked at Modernist, including Jackson, must pass “the gauntlet,” a test of their knowledge that has them making 70 cocktails as fast as possible.

But all that conversing with a customer takes time and training. It’s why the bar is reservation only, and will largely remain so even after its grand opening.

It’s also why most cocktails start around $18.

The bar also carries higher-end spirits and liquors that contribute to the price.

For now, Bespoke is open Tuesdays to Thursdays, with seatings from 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. That will expand to include Fridays starting next week and eventually weekends.

“We want to make sure we’re delivering a product we’re proud of. That’s why we emphasize we’re really in a soft opening,” said Tsai, the co-owner.

Details: Bespoke is at 711 Fulton St. Reservations are required and can be made online at www.bespokefresno.com or via its Instagram page.