Seeing red at the farmers market

Sep. 6—If you love slicing a fresh tomato for a tomato sandwich with all the fixins' — now's the time to do just that.

We've been spoiled by these great late summer crops, first corn and now tomatoes.

While tomatoes are at their best straight off the vine, you don't have to grow your own to experience that. Fellow tomato lovers, head straight to the Rochester Farmers Market as I did a week ago. (Go at 7 a.m. to avoid the 90-degree heat.) Tomatoes of every variety were on display at almost every stand, making it easy to eat local and seasonal.

My first stop was at Serio Farms where Andrew Serio has been selling hydroponically grown tomatoes for several years. During the summer however he switches to regularly grown varieties. That day he brought 400 pounds and expected to sell all.

"That's about 1/3 of what I have," Serio says.

A little farther down the aisle, Taylor Lamphere was selling several varieties of heirloom tomatoes that had been grown by her grandmother in Pine Island. A small stand, there were still many from which to choose.

It appears that most tomato growers offer both hybrid and heirlooms, with the latter getting a lot of attention from shoppers.

The tomatoes are striking in their colors: green, striped, orange, yellow with touches of red, even brown. Their names too are almost lyrical — Blondkopfchen, Brandywine, Black Krim, Speckled Roman and Nebraska Wedding for starters.

These varieties are grown from seeds often passed down generation to generation and are also open-pollinated. That simply means birds, the wind and Mother Nature herself are involved in the process. Heirlooms have exceptional flavor but need careful handling as their skins are thin. Warning: Don't put them in the bottom of your market basket.

Moving along another aisle, Jonathan Stensgard of Pine Creek Farms presented show-stopping slicing tomatoes, among many others. The size of these was amazing, almost as large as a baby's head. On to Mark Timm of Fairview Farm who had a difficult growing season, he said. Because of a hail storm, his tomato crops suffered damage in the form of small pock marks. That however does not affect their flavor.

I was struck by young Anders Miller, who was quickly taking money and making change at his father's very large and busy stand, Easy Yoke Farm. Owned and operated by Daniel Miller, he is known for his selection of heirlooms as well as other produce. It's the tomatoes however, both hybrid and heirloom, that catch the eye. That day he had brought 500 pounds and expected to sell them all. On nonmarket days, you can buy his produce at People's Food Coop.

Every kind, size and shape of tomato you could want was being sold, from the giant Beefsteak to the much smaller grape and cherry, all waiting for you to turn them into sandwiches, soups, salsa, salad, sauces as well as just sliced on a plate and drizzled with olive oil, salt and pepper. There's really no wrong way to use tomatoes.

To refrigerate or store on the counter? The most recent advice is to leave ripe ones on the counter if you are using them within the next day. Any longer, refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.

A final question: Is the tomato a fruit or a vegetable? In 1893 the U.S.Supreme Court, after much debate, ruled it a fruit but acknowledged that most of us consider it a vegetable. So that answers that.

3-4 large vine-ripened tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons capers

12 large kalamata olives, pitted and chopped

1/4 cup red onion, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves, chopped

Ground black pepper

1 6-oz can tuna, drained

Core and halve tomatoes, then cut each half into 4 or 5 wedges. Toss wedges with salt in large bowl an let sit until a little liquid accumulates, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile while whisk oil, lemon juice, capers, olives, onion, parsley and pepper to taste in a small bowl. Pour mixture over the tomatoes and the liquid from the tomatoes. Toss to coat. Set aside to let flavors blend, about 10 minutes. Crumble tuna over tomatoes, toss to combine. Adjust seasoning and serve.

6 large tomatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 lb. Italian sausage (or ground beef)

1/2 cup onion, chopped

1 teaspoon garlic, minced

1-1/2 cups rice, cooked

1 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated, divided

1/3 cup parsley, chopped, divided

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup Panko bread crumbs

2 tablespoons melted butter

Preheat oven to 350. Carefully cut tops off tomatoes and scrape out insides. (Save for pasta sauce.) Heat olive oil over medium heat until browned, drain. Add the onion and cook 3 minutes or until soft, add garlic, then add rice, mozzarella cheese, 2 tablespoons of parsley, salt and pepper into the meat. Stir and cook briefly, 3 minutes. Place tomato shells into a greased baking dish, gently put filling into the shells. In a small bowl stir together the Panko and melted butter and the rest of the Parmesan and put on tops. Bake 25 minutes.

1/4 cup mayonnaise

8 black olives, pitted and chopped

12 slices of hearty country-style bread

1 cup loosely packed basil, chopped

3 large tomatoes, each cut into four 1/2-inch slices

In a small bowl mix together the mayonnaise and the olives together and spread on one side of the bread slices. Add sliced tomato, season with salt and pepper and top with remaining bread slices. Makes 6 sandwiches.

Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what's cookin'. Send comments or story tips to

life@postbulletin.com

.