Have what she's having at Bagel Deli in Denver | Dining review
Dec. 29—It's not like the celebrated deli scene from "When Harry Met Sally," yet there are still similarities since tables at Denver's The Bagel Deli & Restaurant are close enough to have a conversation with those seated nearby. Another commonality is the menu.
Because their food looked interesting, we talked with the people next to us about it. Along with a description of their plates, I learned a little about the place. The photos adorning the walls are a mix of color and black-and-white portraits of multiple generations of the owners and their offspring through the years. The deli has been in the same family since 1967.
This same source said she's been coming here all of her life. Not a bad recommendation. And, since she heard what we ordered, we were commended for choosing the matzo ball soup ($6.97 for a bowl).
The chicken broth is rich and comforting, filled with two baseball-size matzo dumplings that only look dense, but easily break apart with a soup spoon. They share the bowl with sliced carrots, shredded chicken, onion and celery. If I lived closer and had a cold, this is what I'd want to make me feel better.
Breakfast and lunch are served all day. Along with soup we had the Classic Rueben ($16.95); Nova lox and cream cheese ($16.50) and stuffed French toast with bacon and egg ($10.95).
A mini bagel with lox and cream cheese ($6.95) is also available, but as our server explained you don't get as much lox. Sure enough the larger portion featured plenty of thinly sliced salt cured salmon, slices of tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, a mound of soft cream cheese and, of course, capers. My onion bagel was chewy and the perfect platform for all the above.
The Rueben requires hands large enough to hold this massive sandwich piled high with corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. It's served on a choice of bread, but go with the marble rye and not just because it looks good. It augments the smoky, salty sliced meat with a barely detectable bitterness.
On the other end of the palate spectrum is the cream cheese-filled challah bread served with blueberry sauce. This version of French toast is firm and surprisingly not overly eggy given that challah is made with eggs. The scrambled egg on the side was fine, but the plate of bacon (spelled bakin on the menu) was impressive for the number of pieces included. There was more than plenty to share.
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In addition to traditional fare including blintzes, latkes, knishes, noodle kugel and others, a variety of sandwiches, burgers and salads are available.
Everything here is made in-house, not just the bagels and breads but also assorted baked goods from brownies to strudel, from cheesecake to rugulach. This is a busy, unassuming, exceptionally friendly establishment in a southeast Denver strip mall. It's part delicatessen, part diner, without the counter, but coffee cups and water glasses are kept full. Be sure to spend some time in the deli where it's difficult to resist the array of meats, cheeses and baked goods — especially the bagels!
The Bagel Deli & Restaurant
Description: Traditional Jewish comfort food.
Location: 6439 E. Hampden Ave., Denver
Contact: 1-303-756-6667; bageldeli.com
Prices: $4.95 to $18.95
Hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily (the deli is open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.)
Details: Credit cards accepted. Beer. Wi-Fi.
Favorite dishes: Nova lox and cream cheese; stuffed French toast.
Other: Gluten-free options available.
