As Milan Fashion Week draws to a close on Monday, February 29, fashion journalist Sophie de Champsavin, from Paris Modes TV, gives us her take on this latest round of catwalk shows, showcasing upcoming trends and new faces to watch out for on the Italian runway.
What main trends for autumn/winter 2016 were seen on the Milan catwalk?
This latest edition of Milan fashion week had a really dynamic feel, with a resurgence of positive energy. This was particularly felt through the shine and sparkle seen in many collections, with lamé fabrics, Lurex, golden metallics and highly worked fabrics. The combination of textures and heavy use of embroidery brought an artisanal feel to the collections, showcasing Italian skill and expertise (Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Prada, Fausto Puglisi, Roberto Cavalli, Marni, and even Jil Sander, a label known for its minimalist style). Patterns were also big news. All were handled with sensuality and creativity in the collections. One fashion detail to remember for autumn/winter is that socks are worn high with heeled sandals or flat moccasins.
What's the key piece for autumn/winter 2016 wardrobes?
The coat is obviously a key piece in any winter wardrobe, but this season's coat comes in an oversized version adorned with all kinds of embellishments.
Rather than a single piece, color is set to be a major trend, bursting onto the Milan catwalks to cheer up the gloomy gray skies in the city with fluorescent shades, pink, yellow, red, floral prints and abstract motifs.
It felt like the seasons no longer mattered, as coats and shearling jackets were seen paired with lightweight dresses, with Victorian-inspired pieces in lace or silk chiffon, cut long or short.
Volumes and proportions were at the heart of the collections, with geometric and rounded shapes (Fendi, Marni, Emporio Armani). Knitwear was also reworked into figure-hugging tube dresses (Missoni, Versace, Gucci).
The Milan shows had a sporty side too, with designers channeling a young, urban vibe with stirrup pants and technical fabrics (Emilio Pucci, Versace). This look was weighed against the ongoing pajama trend (Trussardi, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Fendi) with loose, effortless pieces. Finally, animal skins, leather, shearling and patchwork fur garments were another theme, taking pride of place in the Italian woman's wardrobe.
Which models stood out as faces to follow?
Black and mixed-race models were noticeably more present, with Damaris Lewis, Lineisy Montero and Ysaunny Brito spotted on the runway.
Another one to watch with her shaved head and unusual masculine looks, Ruth Bell is a young English model who keeps cropping up on the catwalk right now.