Splaine: My brother John's North End life

I have frequently written about Portsmouth's North End, that 30 acres in our downtown that was home for a wonderful mix of people and cultures from parts of our world − Italians, French, Irish, Scottish, Greek, Asian, African-American, Jewish, Canadian and others − a melting pot of ethnic diversity that immigrated to our community during the 1800s and early 1900s.

My first 21 years I lived with my parents, sister Betty, and brother John at our home on the corner of Deer and Bridge Streets, immediately to the right of what became the VFW, more recently Statey, which was demolished last week.

My grandfather, Thomas B. Spillane bought the building in the 1930s when he moved to Portsmouth, temporarily changing his name to the less Irish-sounding "Splaine" after seeing "Irish Need Not Apply" signs. He opened a popular beer parlor on the first floor. Draft beer: 10 cents. Peanuts: 5 cents. No women allowed. Closed at 9 p.m., but he never locked the door. Didn't need to.

My North End memories are of the latter part of the 1950s into the 60s. Brother John was born 7 years before me, so his North End experiences go back further. He was our family athlete, and the smart one. He reminds me he still is. I was the chubby nerd. I admit I still am.

The city's lust for urban renewal interested my family in local government, and after the City Council voted on July 11, 1966 to throw out our 300 or so neighborhood families and tear down our homes, John became more involved. He was well-known for his high school sports success. and as a coach. In 1967 at age 26, he was elected City Councilor.

I've asked for his memories of being a North End kid in the 1940s into the 50s, and he has plenty. He remembers that in our neighborhood he played primarily on concrete. "Grass was strange to me," since we had no parks and the railroad yard across from our home was dirt, where neighborhood kids played.

"The library up the street was my refuge, as was the YMCA. I played basketball and table tennis there and at the Community Center." We had no bathtub or shower in our home, so we both daily visited the YMCA, now Jimmy's Jazz & Blues Club, which was a two minute walk.

He says he watched returnees from World War II and the Korean War arriving at the train station across the street from our home.

"I took the train to Boston Garden for sporting events, and went to diners in Market Square and Congress Street."

"Big snows shut things down and I shoveled. I very much enjoyed and looked forward to holidays: food and some gifts." One Christmas when he was 14 and I was 7 he got a knights castle playset. I hid all the knights and Robin Hood men. He was really angry. Probably still is. He's forgetting some things so I think I'm safe.

He added, "I skated on the mill ponds if they were frozen enough, lobster-fished with dad, and caddied at Abenaki Golf Club. Our sister Betty was active in school musicals, and all of us watched those. Our mom did not drive, but home was close to all downtown stores." Three movie theaters were within a five minute walk -- the Arcadia, Colonial (now Popovers) and Civic (now The Music Hall).

The North End of our youth was a wonderful place to grow up. We called it "home."

When elected to the City Council, John was teaching at Somersworth High School. He accepted a teaching job in Washington, D.C., focusing his next decades on being a college professor, C-SPAN consultant, and writing a slew of books. Google Search "C-SPAN" or his name for videos of television appearances and his writings on education, the critical-thinking process, democracy, presidential campaign techniques, and the Lincoln-Douglas Debates.

Related story: 'It was my life, my home'

Today's quote: "We should love people and use things instead of using people and loving things." − John's 1958 Portsmouth High School Yearbook quote.

Update: Brother John is retired as Associate Professor, Emeritus, University of Maryland and spends lots of time with Pam and Tommy and Tracy, and his grandkids. He's working on his next book, "Constitution of the United States."

Next time: Reducing Portsmouth's Secret Meetings.

Jim Splaine has served variously since 1969 as Portsmouth Assistant Mayor for 12 years, Police Commissioner and School Board member, as well as 6 years as State Senator and 24 years as State Representative. He can be reached at jimsplaineportsmouth@gmail.com

This article originally appeared on Portsmouth Herald: Splaine: My brother John's North End life