Should Springfield-style cashew chicken be Missouri's state dish? Lawmakers undecided

Is there one signature dish that should represent the state of Missouri?

Missouri House Rep. Jamie Gragg of Ozark thinks there is, and his legislation aims to designate Springfield-style cashew chicken as the official state dish.

The Missouri House Special Committee on Tourism met on Tuesday to discuss Gragg’s legislation, as well as a bill from Branson-based Rep. Brian Seitz that would designate Branson as the live entertainment capital of Missouri.

Gragg argued that the history behind the creation of the signature Springfield dish warrants an official designation. Its creator, Wing Yin Leong, who was later known as David Leong, came to the U.S. from China in 1940.

He served in the U.S. Army during World War II, working as a part-time chef and becoming a naturalized citizen in the process.

“All of his army buddies always told him they were the best fed outfit in Europe,” Gragg said.

Leong chose to settle in Springfield with his family after the end of the war, and upon the suggestion of a friend, he opened a restaurant called Leong’s Tea House. It was at this restaurant that Leong perfected his recipe for cashew chicken, in a style created especially for his Midwestern customers.

“He wanted to fit our taste buds so he thought, ‘How would I do that?,’ Gragg said. “So he took his dish, and he breaded the chicken like our traditional fried chicken. He decided the sauce needed to be a little browner, a little bit darker so he added more of a duck sauce to it, giving it more of a gravy look to fit our taste buds. It went over like gangbusters.”

Springfield-style cashew chicken can now be found around the world, with Gragg testifying that the Missouri version of the dish is now more popular in China than the original cashew chicken recipe. Leong, who died in 2020 just a month shy of his 100th birthday, was recognized for his signature dish and his military service by the U.S. House of Representatives in 2013.

“It's not just a dish,” Gragg said. “It's not just what some consider an Asian dish. It is actually an American story. There's a long history behind the dish.”

Lawmakers, lobbyists, advocates share their thoughts on Gragg’s proposal

During questioning from committee members, Rep. Jerome Barnes jokingly admonished Gragg for not bringing samples for the committee to try, to which Gragg replied that he didn’t want to bribe the committee. However, Gragg arranged a special treat for lawmakers from Leong’s son, who still operates Leong's Asian Diner in Springfield.

“I've actually already talked with Chef Wing and towards the end of the year, I will be having them cater the House with Springfield-style cashew chicken,” Gragg said. “But I did not want to influence you.”

Speaking in opposition to the bill was Shannon Cooper, a registered lobbyist speaking on behalf of the Missouri Cattlemen's Association. This group opposes the designation of a state dish that doesn’t include beef, given that the state is home to many cattle farms.

“The fact of the matter is, while we have no beef whatsoever with the poultry industry, there is not a cashew tree in Missouri,” Cooper said.

Also opposing the bill was Arnie C. AC Dienhoff, who said that he didn’t like the idea of singling out just one dish for this designation, thus creating winners and losers.

“It's kind of a slap in the face to other Missouri chefs who spent many years designing and creating dishes,” Dienhoff said. “It's a slap in the face to neighborhoods throughout our state in different populations that call Missouri home.”

Offering closing thoughts, Gragg pointed out that Missouri has already designated an official dessert, bird and folk dance to represent the state. While Missouri is home to many cattle farms, other states raise cattle, too. Springfield-style cashew chicken is something that can only be claimed by one state.

“Cashew chicken, no one can claim that. No one can say they’re the home of Springfield-style cashew chicken,” Gragg said.

More: An Ozark representative's bill proposes a state dish — Springfield-style cashew chicken

Legislators debate Branson’s merit as state’s live entertainment capital

In a separate bill, Rep. Brian Seitz, who chairs the House Special Committee on Tourism, proposed legislation granting Branson the official designation of “Live Entertainment Capital of Missouri.”

“The vast majority of Missourians have been to Branson, vacation annually in Branson, or in some way benefit from what our town of 10,000 residents and approximately 10 million visitors per year has to offer,” Seitz said.

Tourism is the primary driver of the Branson economy, as well as one of the state’s primary economic drivers. In 2022, the state brought in $18.4 billion through tourism, of which $4 billion, or about 22%, comes from Branson.

“Entertainment is spearheaded by our one-of-a-kind live music shows and theatrical productions,” Seitz said. “While estimates vary, we have 34,946 theater seats in 30 active theaters.”

Seitz gave a thorough description of the many shows, dinner theaters, theme parks, concert venues and other natural attractions in the area, as well as one highly coveted designation from Missouri’s only remaining NFL team.

“For those that love football, Branson, Missouri is also the official vacation destination of the Super Bowl bound Kansas City Chiefs,” Seitz said.

Sharing a fun anecdote, Seitz brought attention to Rep. Gragg’s personal connection to Branson, specifically Silver Dollar City, where he performed as a train robber for more than a decade.

“He was a train robber, and now he's a state representative,” Seitz said. “Can you imagine that?”

Speaking in favor of the bill was John Bardgett, a registered lobbyist for the City of Branson, and Monica Evinger, representing the Branson Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and Convention & Visitors Bureau, both of whom spoke to the city’s live attractions available every day.

Speaking again in opposition was Dienhoff, with a similar argument to his dissenting view about making cashew chicken the official state dish.

“It's just unfair to give this designation to one certain part of the state,” Dienhoff said. “It’s picking winners and losers.”

This article originally appeared on Springfield News-Leader: House committee debates making cashew chicken Missouri's state dish