Sweet rum cocktails, tostones and Cuban beats make this Phoenix bar a downtown destination
Whining Pig Bars, the group behind the subterranean Theodore Roosevelt-themed Rough Rider and the speak-easy Pigtails, opened Coabana on Oct. 24 at CityScape in the heart of downtown Phoenix. And entering the Cuban-inspired bar on the corner of South Central Avenue and Washington Street, it's easy to forget you're in Phoenix.
The décor is a contemporary play on Cuban designs of the 1950s — rattan, green colors, tiles and murals. Kyla Hein, the beverage director who also conceptualized the design, drew inspiration from Café la Trova, one of the world's top 50 bars, in Miami.
"The food and drink menus were a collaboration of and homage to all the favorite things my team and I had when we were in Miami," Hein said of the menu that features tapas, prepared by Mckena and Michael Fernandez; cocktails by Hein, manager Ashlee Mahoney and assistant manager Samantha Hunsaker.
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Tropical decor creates an instant vibe
Coabana's entrance is composed of small square tiles in warm and cool greens that frame the paneled wooden door and windows overlooking South Central Avenue. Inside, patrons can choose between different seating areas: booths, sofas and bar stools surrounded by textured walls that impart an old-world feel. Arched tiled murals decorate the walls above each booth. Upbeat Cuban music sets the mood.
Though Coabana uses tiles heavily, one does not see the floral designs of the past. The floor's black and white diamond pattern grounds the cool greens and light pinks. Half-circle gold and silver metal chandeliers hanging over the bar and gilded metal feathers jutting out dramatically behind the beverage shelves, automatically draw the eyes to them. The counter holds mason jars of coffee beans, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, dried citrus sections, fresh herbs and a bowl of fresh lemons, limes and grapefruits. The ingredients on display offer clues about cocktails to come.
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What's on the cocteles menu?
Coabana's menu is divided into three sections: tapas, cocteles and mas.
The beverage menu focuses mostly on rum-forward drinks, though beer, wine and coffee are also available.
I tried The Cuban Link, recommended for fans of sweet drinks. Made with Don Q Crystal rum and Don Q coconut, passion fruit, demerara and lime, it was served in a hurricane cocktail glass with a dried citrus round and an orchid flower as garnishes. With its hint of coconut and passionfruit, it transported me to the tropics.
Our bartender recommended The Get-Away for those who prefer tart and tangy. It was also served in a hurricane glass, which showed off the drink's orange ombre of Kasama rum, Ibis Trinidad rum, apricot, pineapple, lime and Peychaud's aperitivo. It came garnished with a cherry and an apricot on top. Despite the sweet apricot and pineapple, the lime and Peychaud's aperitivo provided just the right citrus pucker.
It seems that here, even a simple whisky can be enhanced. Our bartender added a smoky flavor to a whisky neat using a countertop smoke infuser. He removed the cloche with panache, creating small swirls and allowing the smoke to escape slowly and dramatically.
The knowledge and friendliness of the bar staff were some of the most appealing parts of ordering a drink at this playful bar, so if you can't decide what to order, don't worry, just tell your bartender the kind of drink you're in the mood for, and they'll steer you in the right direction.
What's on the tapas menu?
The one-page food menu, labeled tapas, leans mostly toward small and shareable bites along with two sandwiches, a rice dish and a dessert.
We ordered a few appetizers to share. The verdict? Skip the avocado croquetas and go for the tostones, which were the hands-down favorite. The smashed fried plantains come with mojo sauce, a tangy, garlicky green sauce that you'll want to dip whatever is on the table into.
If you are in the mood for something slightly sweet, which I always am, the empanada shells felt slightly hefty, but the guava and cheese fillings were so good, I'd still order them again.
And what about mas?
On the back page of the menu, find specialties like customized mojitos, beer and wine and a cafe section featuring classic cafecito made with espresso and demerara sugar.
There are plenty of reasons to return, from creative drinks to solid bar bites, but the main draw is the well-designed, transporting Miami feel.
Details: 1 E. Washington St., Suite 124, Phoenix. 602-529-2630, coabanaphx.com.
Hours: 4 p.m. to midnight, Monday to Thursday; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday; 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Saturday; 2 to 10 p.m. Sunday.
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Reach the reporter at BAnooshahr@azcentral.com. Follow @banooshahr on Twitter.
This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: New downtown Phoenix cocktail bar Coabana is now open. What to expect
