Tailoring Is Back and Those Dior Birkenstocks Are a Must-Have, Buyers Say
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PARIS — The waiting list will be long for those Dior Birkenstocks.
They emerged as the hottest item for fall as “Paris Fashion Week once again delivered,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente, of a men’s show week that saw a return to mostly physical formats, be they large-scale productions or more intimate presentations.
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The milestone moment of the week was beyond any doubt the final Louis Vuitton men’s collection imagined by the late Virgil Abloh, who passed away last November at age 41.
Both shows were an “incredibly touching remembrance of one of the great talents of our time,” said men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus Bruce Pask, who summed up the feeling across the board.
“The multifaceted performance for Virgil Abloh’s final collection for Louis Vuitton embodies perfectly his limitless imagination,” wrote La Samaritaine’s Victoria Dartigues.
Another show stayed in the minds — and camera rolls — of nearly every buyer: Kim Jones’ homage to Christian Dior and its picture-perfect replica of the Pont Alexandre III, complete with Beaux-Arts-style lamps, cherubs and a golden winged horse. It was “Paris at its best,” as Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of Berlin-based store The Corner, put it and one of the highlights of the week.
It also marked a return to a more tailored aesthetic, one of the trends of a season where strong outerwear and dressing up were key notions across what Holt Renfrew’s fashion director Joseph Tang called “transformative wardrobes that will redefine how and what we wear [next fall].”
But the hottest ticket in town came on the final day, with the “signature infusion of Japanese sensibility and Americana inspiration” of the first collection designed for Kenzo by streetwear pioneer and new artistic director Nigo, who “brought Kenzo into 2022 the right way by incorporating all the right elements — whimsical floral prints, refined workwear denim and colorful knitwear all complement each other to create this new schoolboy look,” said Lane Crawford’s buying manager for men’s wear Johnny Li.
After a buoyant Paris season where the general feeling is for increased budgets, buyers revealed the brands that caught their eye and why being elegant will be a focus in the fall.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: The Paris collections delivered transformative wardrobes that will redefine how and what we wear in the upcoming season. We’ve moved forward from the overtly casual way of dressing to a newly found form of decorated expression. Our top collections that showcased this were Dior, Kenzo, Jil Sander and Dries Van Noten.
Top trends: The Paris collections brought fashion back to the men’s customer with a capital F! Top trends include the new suit, worn layered and dressed down with a renewed sense of sophistication and ease done in all fabrications, from tweeds to denim and silk. Surrealist prints in psychedelic colors and retro-inspired graphics added lively color to the collections. Elegant outerwear dominated the runways, from belted robe coats to elongated puffers trimmed with faux fur or shearling. To top it off, the statement hat — whether it’s a knitted bucket hat or a fitted leather cap — will be a key item to finish every look.
Must-have item: There were a number of covetable items this season, with the Dior Birkenstock clog at the top of everyone’s list. Other key pieces include an elongated tailored coat from brands like Jil Sander and Ami; a souvenir bomber jacket from Kenzo or Dries Van Noten, and mixed media patchwork outerwear from KidSuper and Acne Studios. Finally, we anticipate the accessories from Loewe will be a top must-have for our customers, with the anagram printed tote and the flamenco-inspired bag/boot being key fashion items.
Best presentation: Nigo’s first collection for Kenzo. The much-anticipated debut brought forth iconic codes of the house blended with a new vision of Japanese streetwear.
Talent scouting: We continue to be inspired by the intersection of art and fashion that Colm Dillane brings forth at KidSuper. We’re excited for the launch of his brand at Holt Renfrew this spring and look forward to seeing the collection virtually during our buying appointment.
General comments: The Paris collections offered a vision of hope and modern elegance for the men’s customer this season. While we weren’t there in person to witness the shows, the sentiment rang through the livestream presentations. From the surreal presentation of Virgil Abloh’s last collection for Louis Vuitton to Kim Jones’ parade of tonal gray looks set behind the life-size replica of Pont Alexandre III, we saw a newly defined vision of dressing for this fall. There was an air of sophistication and precision to the collections which we believe will resonate with our customers. A superb week to end the men’s fall fashion cycle.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Kim Jones’ homage to Monsieur Dior for the house’s 75th anniversary was absolutely breathtaking, a perfect distillation of that chic, nonchalant Parisian style. Looks were elegant but relaxed with precise tailored jackets and coats that interpreted the signature silhouette of the New Look…updated and styled casually. The collection felt timeless and yet so specifically relevant to our often hybrid lives these days that require versatility.
Officine Générale was another beauty of a collection, filled with great wardrobe-driven pieces that will surely stand the test of time. Designer Pierre Mahéo is the epitome of his elegant customer who wants to look polished and pulled together but easy and unfussy. The color palette of camel, navy and olive green with accents of white denim was rich and perfectly seasonal.
Rick Owens referenced Ancient Egypt in the illuminated headpieces seen throughout his singular collection that had some of the best outerwear of the season, from voluminous faux fur lined hooded technical parkas, leather jackets and pieced shearling blousons, to reflective nylon bomber styles with sleeves split and hanging at the elbow. It was rich, aggressive and wonderful.
The highly anticipated debut of Nigo’s first Kenzo collection revealed a deep exploration and reverence of house codes, reinterpreting and incorporating vivid knitwear and bold, colorful florals and prints (one pictured archival sketches) in looks that had a lighthearted charm with a utilitarian edge. The logoed knitwear and worker jackets as well as the full-length nylon parkas and short zip jackets with faux tiger fur-lined hoods are sure to be hits.
Top trends: There was a distinct play on proportion from many designers, a redefinition of the silhouette that we saw earlier this season in Milan and continuing here in Paris, with extended and exaggerated shoulders and sleeve lengths, slouchier shapes and more voluminous jackets and trousers seen at Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander. At Dior, we saw Kim Jones reinterpret the house’s historic New Look silhouette with its slightly extended shoulders and very nipped-in waist while Bianca Saunders continues her play on the movement of garments with pieces that torqued and twisted around the body. Jonathan Anderson took things a step further in his intriguing, entertaining Loewe collection, morphing some garments into sculptural, abstracted interpretations. The more gentlemanly tailored topcoat has made a strong return, notably styled in a very relaxed, casual way and seen precisely tailored at Dior, a bit softer at Officine Générale in some great tweeds, and quite slouchy and louche-ly draped at Dries Van Noten. We saw great textural and technical outerwear and alpine-influenced sportswear in many collections. Colorful, boldly graphic quilted parkas and anoraks at Isabel Marant, KidSuper and Bluemarble were terrific, with a standout paint-splattered camo puffer at Dries Van Noten. A full-length ivory sherpa coat at Casablanca was perfect for après-ski back in the lodge. Colorful, graphic knitwear made bold statements in a lot of collections, seen at Wales Bonner, Kenzo, and Dries Van Noten.
Must-have item: The Dior x Birkenstock collaboration footwear is sure to have a long wait list. Other key items to have are any one of the many beautiful tailored topcoats we saw, a bold, graphic parka, and a statement-making sweater.
Best presentation: The production of Virgil Abloh’s final Louis Vuitton collection was an incredibly touching remembrance of one of the great talents of our time. A new interpretation of a surreal dreamscape-style setting, a signature of presentations past, with a half-buried house and elevated open-air bedroom, was animated by an incredible troupe of choreographed acrobats and dancers who weaved in and around models wearing looks that spoke beautifully to the impressive variety of silhouettes, fabrications and graphics that had become emblematic of Virgil Abloh’s expansive vision for Vuitton. Two models in white wearing elaborately constructed kite-like lace wings raised their heads skyward at the conclusion of the show encouraging a moment of reflection. It was a moving tribute.
Talent scouting: Bianca Saunders, the London-based ANDAM Fashion Award-winning designer, staged her first runway show in Paris featuring a collection filled with movement and dynamism, a Saunders signature. Garments in an optically distorted black-and-white grid seemed to torque around the body, denim jackets and jeans had asymmetrical folding closures and curving seams, and tailored jackets and coats sported her unique floating shoulder construction. Saunders’ work is skilled, exciting and inspiring. Bluemarble, a collection designed by Anthony Alvarez, is another bright spot, with boldly colored and elaborately printed sporty separates with a free-spirited, buoyant vibe. Parkas and anoraks in pop color geometrics were winners. KidSuper’s Colm Dillane continues to stand out with his very personal, irreverent and incredibly entertaining short films featuring his quirkily colored, boldly illustrated collection of upbeat outerwear, knits and retro-inspired tailoring worn by an incredibly talented, endearing cast of friends and characters. They’re must see’s and his portrait puffer jackets are works of art.
General comments: Paris Fashion Week resonated very well digitally for those viewing virtually, like myself, with some truly exciting and inspiring collections, innovative videos, and some truly unforgettable fashion shows. There seemed to be a nice playful, lighthearted quality to some of the presentations, an optimism that was rejuvenating. We saw a timeless Parisian elegance to some standout collections that felt really relevant as we navigate lives that require polish as well as versatility and ease. There is always a bounty of creativity in this city and this season many designers took an opportunity to reexamine and explore the proportion of silhouettes and garments, altering the shapes and profiles, creating fluid, slouchy often-dramatic silhouettes that were refreshing.
Justin Berkowitz, men’s fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Dior, Lemaire, Officine Generale, Kenzo, Ami
Top trends: We’re certainly seeing a shift back into the idea of truly getting dressed again, and perhaps more importantly, looks that feel like they were a joy to put together. Artful layering felt elegant, and nearly dandyish in nature. Of course, “getting dressed” requires some elevated, more polished pieces, like the tailoring and topcoats on the runway this season that all looked great. Interesting sweaters have really begun to pick up steam, often with novel treatments or intarsia. Boots shared a similar sentiment and it’s about time to transition into sturdier footwear. Another idea that’s resonating is a big focus on texture. On the one hand, we’re seeing a surfeit of shag, specifically shearling, mohair and fur, and on the other, a lot of sleek faux and real leather.
Must-have item: It’s time to pick up a great new coat with a little volume.
Best presentation: Nigo’s debut at Kenzo in the Galerie Vivienne was hard to miss this weekend due to an incredibly strong front row. It was filled with the kinds of celebrities who only need one name — Kanye, Pharrell, Tyler — and created the type of moment you hope for anyone’s first outing at a new house.
Talent scouting: Bianca Saunders’ runway debut was a thrill.
Laurent Coulier, men’s wear offer and buying director at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Rick Owens for the destructured silhouettes; Loewe for all outerwear pieces and poetic collection, and Dior for embroidered pieces and tailoring.
Top trends: Glitter, embroideries and sequins at Dries Van Noten, Dior and Loewe. Bright and optimistic colors: orange at Ami, Hermès, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Isabel Marant; pink at Dries Van Noten and Ami, and yellow at Bianca Sanders. Deconstructed tailoring at GmbH, Bianca Saunders and Dior. Voluminous coats at Hed Mayner, EgonLab and Y/Project.
Must-have item: Some Dior x Birkenstock sandals, large shoulder coats, voluminous knitwear and new shapes for pants — flared, pleated or reconstructed from the belt.
Best presentation: EgonLab in the Oratoire du Louvre, Loewe’s setup, Louis Vuitton’s homage to Virgil Abloh and Casablanca’s movie presentation with Emma Mackey.
Budgets: Up compared to fall 2021.
General comments: It was really exciting to attend physical shows, discover new brands and see great collections offering strong fashion statements.
Margaux Lataste, men’s wear luxury and designers buyer at Printemps
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Jil Sander, Hermès, Courrèges and EgonLab.
Top trends: A combination of streetwear and tailoring, less is more, workwear, clubbing culture, colors (purple, pink, burgundy…), good-quality clothes, technical materials, layering, Y2K and metaverse.
Must-have items: Birkenstock x Dior collaboration, hoods and balaclavas, oversize blazers, tailored coats, wide shoulder pads, baggy pants, shearling jacket and EgonLab x Crocs NFT.
Best presentation: The very emotional last “Louis Dreamhouse” show of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, Dior show “on Alexandre III bridge” and Jil Sander in the American Cathedral.
Talent scouting: Rier at Sphere showroom, and the Untitled Showroom.
General comments: [I’m] glad to see tailoring coming back and happy to rediscover emotions raised by shows and physical showrooms.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Jil Sander, Loewe and Kenzo.
Top trends: Casual urban elegance, modern romanticism and chic sportswear.
Must-have item: Outerwear jackets, generous and soft coats and trenches, bags and hats.
Best presentation: Dior, with a beautiful, peaceful and chic setup, calm serenity, effortless elegance. Paris at its best.
Talent scouting: I was very much looking forward to the new Kenzo, and I liked the new energy there.
Budgets: Slight increase.
General comments: There is a general softness and calm around the shows that suits very well our times. I like the non-aggressive long-term view about it.
Victoria Dartigues, senior buying manager men and women at La Samaritaine Paris Pont Neuf
Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Loewe, OAMC.
Top trends: Dressing up again with classy tailoring but a comfort approach, super well-adapted to the world of today; outdoor with high-performance option/fabrics and exaggerated proportions. Strong knitwear.
Must-have items: Dior x Birkenstock embroidered clogs. The Bar Jacket from Dior men’s wear. Sacai’s puffer jacket. A Loden coat from Rier by Andreas Steiner, present at the Sphere showroom.
Best presentation: The multifaceted performance for Virgil Abloh’s final collection for Louis Vuitton, which embodies perfectly his limitless imagination. Nigo’s debut at Kenzo, held in the Galerie Vivienne.
Talent scouting: Ouest Paris, a very cool approach of the contemporary male wardrobe that is eye-catching but accessible; Uniforme, a strong durability approach, a perfect wardrobe, very well-executed.
Riccardo Tortato, fashion director and head of buying at Tsum Moscow
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Casablanca
Top trends: Tailoring is back. I see much more blazers at the shows. Streetwear looks like an old trend that no one wants to see anymore. Sophisticated is the word of the season.
Must-have item: The new Hermès Haut-à-Courrois bag [which is the model the Birkin is based on].
Best presentation: Dior
Talent scouting: Rhude
General comments: This time, and for the first time, I did not attend Paris Fashion Week in person — not worth it for one show a day on average. I was really disappointed about this and think Milan this season was much better organized. That said, we had a really interesting season. Milan and Paris put together a clear trend for next fashion week showing a much more sophisticated and elegant man. Again we see the coat, formal and with new shapes. Lots and lots of blazers. It’s a new elegance, more comfortable than before, but still charming and luxurious.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Kenzo, Dior, Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders, Dries Van Noten, Loewe. I was looking forward to Nigo’s debut at Kenzo and he knocked it out of the park. His debut collection made it clear why he’s equally revered as a curator as well as a creative force. Kim Jones’ 75th-anniversary collection for Dior was one of his strongest yet, eschewing external collaboration partners, but instead highlighting codes of the house and taking inspiration from his previous eponymous collections where he championed the sportswear-meets-formalwear aesthetic. I always look forward to Wales Bonner and Bianca Saunders, who made her Paris debut this season. They represent two of London’s most promising men’s wear designers, and both happen to be Black women. I was also particular to Dries Van Noten and Jonathan Anderson’s latest at Loewe, both speaking to a more egalitarian, gender-expressive approach to ostensible “men’s wear.”
Top trends: Crochet, sequins, textiles and silhouettes speaking to a more gender-expressive world of men’s wear was something that caught my eye. For the classicists, I think it’s safe to say the Mod revival is here.
Must-have item: The Dior x Birkenstock Bostons are sure to be a hit.
Talent scouting: Charaf Tajer’s colorful, resort-ready Casablanca got mainstream recognition when Jeff Bezos rang in the new year in one of his silk shirts. I wouldn’t be surprised to see his recognizable gear become a new status symbol. London’s Bianca Saunders showed a promising progression with her Paris debut. Another one to watch is up-and-coming label Arnar Már Jónsson as the brand continues to toe the line between innovative tech-wear and aspects of tailoring.
General comments: Even though the season was still experienced virtually for us, it was one of the most electrifying men’s weeks in Paris in a while. It certainly has me excitedly hoping to go back next season.
Tyler Franch, vice president and fashion director at The Bay and The Room
Favorite collections: Loewe, Jil Sander, Rick Owens, Y/Project and Dior.
Top trends: After so much time spent indoors and as we begin to breach the learning curve of adapted living, the trends this season reflect the now versus the “where we will be (or hope to be)” in the near future. New wardrobe staples like utilitarian coats and jackets, workwear-inspired trousers, tactical knits with tons of textures, prints and novelty, versatile tailoring, denim and tons of vintage prints. Classic shapes feel uber relevant and optimistic yet nostalgic. And as the industry begins to get serious about the metaverse and NFTs we can already see the brands begin to create, reference and tease for the next big movement in fashion.
Must-have item: A statement sweater. Regardless of your style, there’s a standout sweater for everyone. From surrealist sculptural knits to playful patterns and thick cables, there are plenty of options that will have everyone reaching out for a feel. Knitwear extends to headpieces like the heart-shaped balaclava at Loewe and countless jackets, pants and other non-conventional crafted items for warmth, comfort and style.
Best presentation: Virgil Abloh’s final collection for Louis Vuitton stands out as a particularly memorable and incredibly special showcase. An event that will land in fashion history books celebrating the final chapter for an iconic and groundbreaking designer.
Talent scouting: It was a special moment to see one of my favorite British talents, Bianca Saunders, with her Paris runway debut. I am looking forward to seeing how showing amongst new company will elevate and inspire her already innovative ideas and new standards for the man looking for anything but conventional.
Louis DiGiacomo, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s at Saks Fifth Avenue
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton and Dior.
Best presentation: The Louis Vuitton show was definitely the standout of the week. Between the strong collection, storytelling, music and finale with a standing ovation for Virgil’s design team, it was emotional from start to finish.
Top trends: Functional tailoring had a big presence in Paris, most notably in the Louis Vuitton, Dior and Ami collections. We are also seeing relaxed silhouettes in everything from tailoring to knitwear and denim.
Must-have item: Something from the Dior x Birkenstock collaboration.
General comments: The energy in Paris was just as strong and vibrant as it was in Milan. We are especially excited about the reinvention of tailoring and the infusion of functionality in sportswear.
Andrea Selvi, men’s buying manager at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Dior. Louis Vuitton proposed a fantastic journey to the public: the dancers, the musicians and the scenography let us dream. Jil Sander: Luke and Lucie Meier proposed a fantastic wide volume on coats reminding us that minimalism is in the brand’s DNA but with a touch of femininity with knitted details. Dior: Kim Jones could add a lot of details coming from the archive: the Bar Jacket, the caning and the lily of the valley but always with a twist of modern interpretation thanks to the collab with Birkenstock.
Top trends: A good combination of tailoring elegance and activewear details. We have seen a lot of sartorial detail on coats and jackets mixed with sportswear puffer with large trousers.
Must-have items: Long coats in wool fabrics seen in the Jil Sander collection and wide trousers like Lemaire.
Best presentation: Louis Vuitton, thanks to all the performers: Chineke playing the soundtrack written by rapper Tyler the Creator and Yoann Bourgeois’ dance troupe.
Talent scouting: EgonLab. For their first physical runway show, the two designers created a mix between tailoring and sport details with geometric details and they continued to push on sustainability and genderless looks.
Budgets: We will increase the budget for this fall 2022 season, because we closed a fantastic 2021 and believe in a return to spending for fashion men’s wear.
General comments: In Paris, like in Milan, I felt a global optimism on market trends. Men need to get dressed elegantly again after a casualization due to lockdown.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and men’s wear at Selfridges
Favorite collections: The Kenzo collection under the new creative direction of Nigo was one of our favorite collections in Paris this season. Watching the show, there was something special in the air — the front row consisting of Ye, Tyler the Creator, Gunna and longtime supporter of Nigo, Pharrell Williams, all were out to support the show. The music, all-new tracks coming out this week on a new album, the setting in Galerie Vivienne close to the Kenzo headquarters all made the collection shown even more special. There are casual looks, varsity jackets with a different take on the iconic tiger but also very cool and fresh colorful tailoring. The Louis Vuitton show was another highlight — the set build and performance marked a special moment in Paris, to remember Virgil and to also celebrate the creativity of his time at the brand together with the design team. There were so many great pieces in the collection with the highlight being the last looks reminiscent of wedding dresses.
Best presentation: As far as digital presentations went the Casablanca film that premiered over fashion week was another highlight. The vibe very colorful and playful, celebrating prints and the stylish idealized world of diplomatic travel during the Jetliner age, and fittingly titled “Le Monde Diplomatique.” The film itself is a very impressive example of how much film presentations have evolved over the last couple of years. It is a very entertaining watch besides showcasing the beautiful looks, with the Concorde one of the leitmotifs throughout the collection. Creative director Charaf Tajer fueled the desire to travel the world again with this collection.
Talent scouting: A new brand for us this season is Nahmias, designed by Doni Nahmias from Santa Barbara, Calif. His first collection being a great mix of denim, jersey and cleverly designed outerwear, with an extensive collection of jewelry including colorful pearl necklaces.
General comments: This men’s season was, again, not a regular fashion week, but I think that despite still a lot of designers being notably absent from the schedule, it was great to be able to see collections in showrooms again as the advantage of being able to see product in person is much better than just simply online sheets or through a computer screen via video call.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Virgil’s final collection for LV was beautiful and encapsulated his time in the house perfectly and made clear the significant impact he has had on men’s wear. Jil Sander produced some of the best coats of the season in an array of silhouettes and styles, meanwhile Dior, and Rick Owens also presented exceptionally strong, versatile collections that will be commercially very popular with our customers.
Top trends: Tailoring ruled the runway with beautiful suiting, and the best coats were structured and sartorial, a noticeable move from the softer, more cocooning styles of last winter.
Must-have item: Structured overcoats were everywhere this season, boasting a defined and sharp silhouette, Dior and Jil Sander executed this particularly well.
Best presentation: Louis Vuitton presented a moving and beautiful tribute to Virgil Abloh and his final collection for the house.
General comments: The energy and positivity in the collections was so visible, meaning brands showcased very strong collections — beautiful, luxurious and elegant pieces that will prove an investment for seasons to come.
Johnny Li, men’s wear buying manager at Lane Crawford
Favorite collections: Kenzo, Loewe. One of the most anticipated collections was Kenzo by fan-favorite designer Nigo, who didn’t disappoint. With his signature infusion of Japanese sensibility and Americana inspiration, Nigo brought Kenzo into 2022 the right way by incorporating all the right elements — whimsical floral prints, refined workwear denim and colorful knitwear all complement each other to create this new schoolboy look. Loewe is another collection that played with shape and prints to create true statement pieces. Other than the obvious attention-grabbers of this show, pieces like the outerwear with the unique details such as various patches and the multilayered shearlings were much more than meets the eye.
Must-have item: Outerwear, and my must-have outerwear this season is a tie between a sophisticated overcoat for when you mean business and an oversize bomber when you’re ready to play. My favorite overcoat this season comes from Jil Sander — the slightly oversize silhouette mixed with the hits of leather or satin on the lapels makes it the perfect update to your now second favorite overcoat. For the more casually inclined, I opt for a care-free, boxier-shaped bomber, and Wooyoungmi this season showcased a few that are perfectly cropped in the body and slightly longer in the sleeves, my ideal shape for fall 2022.
Top trends: This season was all about making a statement. Whether it was the juxtaposition of bold colors (Loewe, Sacai, Acne Studios), the plethora of prints (Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, JW Anderson) or the exceptional details added to a familiar silhouette (Jil Sander, Prada, Wooyoungmi), our favorite collections were able to utilize these elements so that the ultimate wearer will stand out after spending a long time staying in.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente
Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dior Men, Nigo’s debut at Kenzo, Jil Sander, Ami and Lemaire.
Top trends: We can still notice the focus on outdoor references and tech materials, with a more modern approach and oversize silhouettes, modular design and cool shades. The 2000s sk8er boi and ravers inspiration is very strong, especially among younger designers. Bright colors are often mixed with dusty ones, with a special mention to purple and lilac shades. Tailoring and suiting are still a thing, mainly presented by luxury brands such as Dior, Jil Sander, Louis Vuitton and Hermès.
Must-have items: Baggy pants with maxi pockets and workwear details, varsity bombers and shearlings, balaclava and headpieces with a protective function, half-zip and anorak styles for both knitwear as well as outerwear, oversize tailored coat with a focus on sculptural shoulders, trucker jackets, oversize hoodies and crewnecks, denim with hardware belt inserts from Loewe’s show.
Best presentation: Louis Vuitton’s show was a highlight, as being the last collection designed by Virgil it touched our hearts and created a kind of magic halo around each look, especially the white ones at the end of the show. Loewe was also very strong, presented in this beachy setting. Nigo’s debut designing at Kenzo brought a new creative and visual approach to the maison’s DNA, closer to the youngest generations.
Talent scouting: Bluemarble, for its young and laid-back styling. Courrèges men’s wear keeps developing an interesting and modern aesthetic.
General comments: Despite a slow start of the season, Paris Fashion Week once again delivered. We all hope to fully get back to the physical campaigns soon in February, in time for women’s fashion weeks.
Franck Nauerz, men’s department director at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche
Favorite collections: Dior Men was a runway show that reminded us [why] we like the physical expression of a brand. A wonderful wardrobe that encapsulates the DNA of the brand, with a younger energy without compromising elegance and style.
Top trends: Elevated tailoring, the men’s suit becomes a new playground for designers. A work-from-home vibe with a more elegant style. All of it combined with an outdoor inspiration that gets its creativity more from nature itself than the technicality that we have seen in the last few seasons.
Must-have items: Dior jog pants with Birkenstock collab. Any floral garment which gives a more sensitive silhouette.
Best presentation: See Dior, above.
Talent scouting: Giuliva Heritage with luxury and elegance. A vision of the world based on responsibility, grace and consciousness. Pellat Finet: a reboot of the brand that brings back the anti-fashion manifesto, a more elevated craftsmanship combined with a laid-back silhouette. It’s just marvelous to wear. Valette Studio Paris is an amazing improvement in only three seasons, which shows a very promising future for the brand. A new point of view on men’s wear, which provides a one-of-a-kind silhouette.
Budgets: Up
Dean Cook, head of men’s wear at Browns
Favorite collections: Nigo’s highly anticipated debut at Kenzo was a highlight this Paris Fashion Week as he unveiled the brand’s new direction. We loved seeing his signature style blended with Kenzo Takada’s. He chose to honor the brand’s legacy, whilst pushing it forward into the future. Also, such a huge moment for him personally, as the first Japanese creative director at the brand since Takada himself.
Top trends: Coordinating sets, which we saw both on and off the runway. From Kanye’s double denim look [at Kenzo], to fitted and abstract printed sets at Bianca Saunders’s Paris Fashion Week debut. The oversize diamond-graphic jacquard jacket and trousers at Kiko Kostandinov were also a strong standout, not to mention the brown sequined denim look at Louis Vuitton.
Must-have item: The Dior clogs, which will no doubt dominate the hype slippers trend we’re seeing for fall 2022.
Best presentation: Lemaire stood out to me with the brand’s imaginary desertscape backdrop contrasting nicely against the concrete floor of the warehouse. It was a great backdrop for the neutral, timeless collection. It goes without saying, Louis Vuitton and the brand’s tribute to Virgil Abloh was poignant — this felt like a journey from his childhood through to his career, celebrating the signature pieces which will forever define his legacy.
General comments: We were thrilled to see that physical shows dominated Paris Fashion Week and that we were able to experience these incredible collections in the flesh once again. There were some really memorable experiences out of Paris Fashion Week this season, with Virgil’s tribute, Nigo’s debut, and more.
