Testing 1, 2, 3: Van Leeuwen's Kraft Macaroni & Cheese ice cream a sweet & salty treat

Our taste test panel agreed the texture of Van Leeuwen's Kraft Macaroni and Cheese ice cream is amazingly creamy, smooth and worth savoring.
Our taste test panel agreed the texture of Van Leeuwen's Kraft Macaroni and Cheese ice cream is amazingly creamy, smooth and worth savoring.

A year ago, Van Leeuwen Ice Cream of New York partnered with Kraft Foods in an unprecedented culinary scheme.

That venture proved to be an overnight success.

At $12 a pint, their premier release of Macaroni & Cheese French Ice Cream sold out in an hour, crashing Van Leeuwen’s website.

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Cami Bohrer
Cami Bohrer

Both companies knew a good thing when they saw it and immediately set to work on a 2022 10-week limited edition of the same. The mac ‘n’ cheesy ice cream arrived March 10 in 3,500 Walmart stores across the United States.

Ashland and Wooster Walmarts were among that lucky 3,500, and Ashland Kroc Center’s Ken Rawls, Theresa Watson and Jennifer Washock were our lucky three tasters.

Packaging gives panel high expectations for gourmet taste

Designed with Kraft Macaroni & Cheese box art as a guide, the packaging garnered favorable reviews from our appraisers.

“The package looks very expensive. High-end gourmet,” Watson noted.

Theresa Watson
Theresa Watson

That it is, containing four top-of-the-line ingredients — milk, cream, egg yolks and organic cane sugar — and selling for just under $5 per 14-ounce tub.

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With high expectations, the judges moved on.

The ice cream’s cheddar orange color was exactly what they had expected. The aroma was a different matter. They all three detected a cheesy scent, but much milder than anticipated.

As Watson described it: “It is not a strong smell, only a slight cheese smell.” She picked up more of a salty sweetness versus cheesy with her sniff assessment.

Our tasters took great care when evaluating texture and flavor.

It turns out, the sweet salty nature identified by Watson merited a thumbs-up from all three.

Ken Rawls
Ken Rawls

According to Rawls, “This has a creamy texture and tastes salty, cheesy and sweet, all at the same time.”

I was surprised by this conclusion, so I checked out the ingredients list.

To achieve total authenticity, Van Leeuwen utilized Kraft’s very own cheese sauce mix recipe. Salt, being the powder’s number three ingredient, played a major role in producing a sweet-salty contrast.

Pricey ice cream but worth it as a tasty and unique treat

As for myself, I identified a definite Kraft mac and cheese flavor, and liked it, though my judges were more keyed into the sweet and salty.

We all agreed the texture was amazingly creamy, smooth and worth savoring.

Jennifer Washock
Jennifer Washock

All three said they would buy a "pint," Watson to share with the kids, Rawls and Washock for the unique flavor — but with a qualifier from Washock.

“It is very good, surprisingly so. However, at $5 (for 14 ounces), I would really (need) to consider it as a treat.”

To purchase this newbie, look beyond Walmart’s normal freezer section. I tracked mine down in an end cap freezer along with other curious Van Leeuwen ice cream options like Pizza, Planet Earth, Hot Honey, Royal Wedding Cake and Bourbon Cherries Jubilee.

Uncertain about giving it a try? Consider what Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a French lawyer and politician as well as an 18th century foodie, had to say.

“The discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of the human race than the discovery of a star.”

Until next time …

Reach Cami by email at camboh49@gmail.com.

This article originally appeared on The Daily Record: Van Leeuwen's Kraft Macaroni & Cheese ice cream a sweet & salty treat