Tokyo's Tonchin opens its first L.A. ramen shop — with a noodle-making room
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For the record:
4:27 p.m. Jan. 25, 2023: New restaurant Casa Madera previously appeared spelled as Casa Madeira. This article has been updated to reflect this.
Tonchin
A Tokyo-founded tonkotsu specialist is now open in Hollywood. Tonchin, launched by brothers Motohiro and Katsuhiro Sugeno in 1992, began with bowls of fresh ramen noodles in long-simmered pork broth before expanding to China and Taiwan, and is now a multigenerational ramen shop that just landed its first outpost in Los Angeles.
“Almost seven years ago I came to L.A. — that was my first time too, in coming to the U.S.,” said Anan Sugeno, son of Katsuhiro Sugeno and an owner in the business. “Actually, we wanted to open first in L.A. years ago. Timing-wise, it didn’t happen.”
The team opened its first U.S. location in Manhattan in 2017, then followed it with one in Brooklyn last year. The L.A. location will be most similar to Manhattan’s, with a forthcoming full bar and a signature cocktail (currently it offers sake, beer, natural wine and tea). As with all Tonchin outposts, ramen is the focus, available with a variety of broths, including vegan miso and ginger as well as a smoked dashi option, and in a range of formats, such as the dippable tsukemen. Try add-ons such as clams, corn and seasoned bamboo shoots. Small plates also are on offer — curry-and-cheese wings, unagi rice balls and gyoza — as are towering piles of kakigori for dessert.
One of Tonchin’s signatures can be found in a number of dishes: All bowls of ramen feature springy, fresh noodles made on-site.
“Everything is made fresh, from scratch, every day,” said co-owner Chris Lim.
“Like my dad made [31] years ago,” said Anan Sugeno, “he always made fresh.”
From a window just inside the entrance to Tonchin, guests can glimpse the “noodle room” where the team makes the wavy, custom-recipe ramen noodles via machine throughout the day. Much of the kitchen is on view as well; diners can see the staff deftly timing the noodle baskets, grilling meats and assembling steamed buns from the modern dining room and bar.
Tonchin is open daily from 5 to 9 p.m.
5665 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 380-6072, tonchinnewyork.com
Casa Madera
The international restaurant group behind Toca Madera recently debuted a modern Mexican restaurant in West Hollywood atop the Mondrian hotel. Casa Madera, an indoor-outdoor concept spread across 8,000 square feet, takes its inspiration from the Mayan Riviera with a focus on seafood. A raw bar involves seafood towers, ceviche blanco, aguachile and oysters, while starters offer grilled octopus, albondigas and Mayan-inspired hummus. The opening seasonal taco menu from Noble 33 restaurant group’s executive chef, A.J. McCloud, includes duck carnitas, al pastor and tiger shrimp, among others, while entrées include steaks, pollo asado and sea bass. The bar program also takes its cues from coastal Mexico, and includes nonalcoholic cocktails. Casa Madera is open from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, and from 5 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 878-0814, thecasamadera.com
Kusaki
An entirely plant-based sushi bar is now open in Sawtelle, replacing tuna and sailfish with the likes of tapioca and peas. Dillon Bolin, formerly of Encino’s Sushi Bar, is leading the kitchen at Kusaki, which translates to “plant” in Japanese. Nigiri, hand rolls and maki are all on offer in options such as sweet corn with chile garlic, ponzu and yuzu-kosho aioli; miso eggplant with lemon and a sweet glaze; and a rainbow roll featuring seaweed caviar. Non-sushi options — including avocado crispy rice, seared sesame tofu, tempura portobello mushroom and a shishito burger — also are available. An omakase menu, at $75 for five courses or $105 for seven, can be found at the eight-seat chef’s counter. A portion of each check at Kusaki benefits nonprofit One Tree Planted, which helps to restore Africa’s rainforest. Kusaki is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and from 5 to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
2535 S. Barrington Ave., Los Angeles, (424) 213-6844, kusakila.com
Pizza City Fest
A new two-day pizza festival is headed to Los Angeles this spring, showcasing roughly 40 pizza makers and an array of styles with tastings and discussion panels. Pizza City Fest, conceptualized by food writer Steve Dolinsky, launched in Chicago last year and is bringing its chef demos, advice and samples to the events deck at L.A. Live on April 29 and 30. Participating restaurants include Pizzana, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, Quarter Sheets, Ronan, Apollonia’s, De La Nonna, Little Coyote, the Rose and more, with panel discussions including topics on how to make great pizza at home; making dough with Evan Funke and Daniele Uditi; and what “L.A.-style” pizza actually means. Single-day general-admission tickets are $95 and include drinks (both alcoholic and nonalcoholic), 12 pizza slices, pizza-themed art and access to panels and book signings, while the single-day VIP tickets cost $175 and include 16 slices and the aforementioned, plus early admission, a welcome toast, specialty food items, access to a VIP lounge, raffle entry, a shirt and a swag bag. Pizza City Fest runs from noon to 5 p.m. both days.
1005 Chick Hearn Court, Los Angeles, pizzacityfest.com
Downtown Disney changes and Tiana’s Palace
Disney recently announced a number of dining changes slated for this year, happening both in and outside of the theme park. Earl of Sandwich is set to return to Downtown Disney in February, taking up temporary residence in the former La Brea Bakery location with grab-and-go options, plus table service through a sit-down concept, Earl of Sandwich Tavern. Eventually the previously reported Porto’s Bakery will open on that footprint in a newly constructed restaurant space. Inside Disneyland, in anticipation of the new “The Princess and the Frog”-themed ride expected to launch in 2024, French Market Restaurant and Mint Julep Bar will close and make space for Tiana’s Palace, a New Orleans-themed restaurant set to open later this year.
1580 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, disneyparks.disney.go.com
This story originally appeared in Los Angeles Times.
