Tom Ford’s Gucci and 1980s BodyMap: These Are the 16 Collections We’d Like to See Reissued Now

As our colleague Steff Yotka reported last week, nostalgia was the most-Googled fashion trend of 2018. The top searches included grunge style, 2000s fashion, 1990s fashion, and 1980s fashion, proving that right now, in a year that’s been more than a little rocky, we were all looking for comfort in the familiar (or unfamiliar, as the case may be) things of the past. While some may have found joy in a Murakami Louis Vuitton Speedy, others might have scoured eBay for a Tom Ford–era Gucci slip dress. The point is, making the old new again has never been more in, and as a result, more than a few major fashion houses brought us back to the good old days. During the last 12 months, Prada reissued its Linea Rossa, Versace remade an iconic dress or two, and Marc Jacobs released a capsule of his famous grunge collection for Perry Ellis.

Where do we go from here on the throwback fashion train? In 2019, more luxury brands are likely to get into the reissue game, and here at the Vogue offices, our editors have a few suggestions for them (in addition to the ones we highlighted last year).

As for me, I’d like Nina Ricci’s new creative directors, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, to join forces with Olivier Theyskens to bring back a few items from his Spring 2008 collection for the French label. In those buttery slips, suede jackets, relaxed trousers, and ladylike skirtsuits, there’s a striking presaging of the fierce, slightly undone Insta-age cool girls many of us now follow on social media. Theyskens’s designs at Nina Ricci are still relevant today. And a reissue would be timely: The designer will open an exhibition at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, France, in June 2019.

Here, 16 Vogue editors share their dream fashion reissues for 2019.

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2000
Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2000
Photo: Style.com Archival

“For Fall 2000 Narciso Rodriguez showed a collection loosely based on the stylings of Romy Schneider. It was very ladylike yet twisted, with silky lingerie dry wools sculpted into neat suits and coats. I am really feeling for that silhouette now: the discretion and quiet glamour, the pure textiles and deliberate elegant drabness, clothes that say, ‘Don’t look at me (but you will, because I am so darn chic).’” —Sally Singer, Creative Digital Director

BodyMap Spring 1986

Culture Club singer Boy George modelling clothes on the catwalk at the Bodymap Fashion Show at the Duke of York barracks in Chelsea

BodyMap Spring 1986
Photo: Getty Images

“The teenage me saved up every penny he had so he could buy—in the sale from a store called Corniche in Edinburgh on January 4, 1985; yes, I really do remember it that clearly—a black BodyMap coat from a collection called Cat in the Hat Takes a Rumble With a Techno Fish. The rather older me would love that collection to be reissued so I could get that coat again. Actually, I just want BodyMap back, period; it was decades ahead of its time.” —Mark Holgate, Fashion News Director

Céline Spring 2010
Céline Spring 2010
Photo: GoRunway.com

“Everyone has a favorite collection from Phoebe Philo’s Céline—that would be with an accent—but for me, it was all about Spring 2010. This collection is wide-leg pant heaven.” —Edward Barsamian, Style Editor

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 1997
Ann Demeulemeester Spring 1997
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

“Before I fell in like with the Balenciaga parka slouch, I fell—coup de foudre—for Ann Demeulemeester’s casual goddess looks from Spring 1997. Irving Penn immortalized two of these in black-and-white photographs for Vogue. In one, Kirsty Hume wears a comfy sweater that oozes off her shoulder; in the other, a simple T-shirt dress that wondrously transformed, with two inner ties, into a draped knockout à la Isadora Duncan. On the runway, there were also asymmetric white shirts and pantsuits paired with flowing tops—easy and chic.” —Laird Borrelli-Persson, Archive Editor

Anna Sui Spring 1994
Anna Sui Spring 1994
Photo: Courtesy of Anna Sui

“I have not been able to get over this Anna Sui Spring 1994 collection since it posted on Vogue Runway. I mean, who wouldn’t want to wear baby doll nightgowns, bloomers, and marabou headpieces come spring? Also, the bags are to die for.” —Anny Choi, Market Editor

Pieces from the Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1992 collection on display at the “Margiela / Galliera, 1989–2009” exhibition in Paris.

“Margiela / Galliera, 1989–2009” exhibition

Pieces from the Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1992 collection on display at the “Margiela / Galliera, 1989–2009” exhibition in Paris.
Photo: Getty Images

“As much as I try and fight it, I’m a sucker for bohemian style. Walking through the Margiela exhibit in Paris earlier this year, past the oversize suiting and deconstructed denim, all the collaged floral prints and long silk wrap skirts from his Spring 1992 collection caught my eye. I remember working a similar look in college, wrapping sari fabric over wide-leg pants and mixing it all up with shrunken beaded knits that I found at the local thrift store.” —Chioma Nnadi, Fashion News Director

Saint Laurent Spring 2008

Yves Saint Laurent- PFW Spring/Summer 2008 - Runway

Saint Laurent Spring 2008
Photo: Getty Images

“This is the look from Stefano Pilati’s Spring 2008 collection for Saint Laurent that got away, for me. I bought those chinos, but tragically, they either got lost at the dry cleaners or left in a hotel somewhere. Either way, they’re no longer with me, and I desperately want them back! 10 years on, this whole collection is as relevant and wearable now. And look how far ahead he was with those white boots.” —Sarah Mower, Chief Critic

Chloé Fall 2004
Chloé Fall 2004
Photo: Style.com Archival

“Everyone’s mourning the loss of Phoebe Philo’s Céline, with an accent, but what about her years at Chloé? They were just as relevant. She actually set the bar quite high there with her knack for nonchalant, sexy hipness and her utterly modern take on retro. Rather inimitable, I’d say. Fall 2004 was a total delight, full of so many easy and smart pieces which would still sit nicely in today’s wardrobes.” —Tiziana Cardini, Contributing Editor

Helmut Lang Fall 1998
Helmut Lang Fall 1998
Photo: Courtesy of hi-art

“I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again. Helmut Lang could reissue entire collections line for line, and they’d sell like crazy. The Fall 1998 collection (20 years old, if you can believe!) especially.” —Nicole Phelps, Director, Vogue Runway

Bouchra Jarrar Fall 2012
Bouchra Jarrar Fall 2012
Photo: Courtesy of Bouchra Jarrar

“I bought a lot of Bouchra Jarrar pieces while I could, and I agonized over every choice. I wanted it all. I have a double-breasted bottle green jacket from Fall 2012 that I cherish, and a zip-up sleeveless green vest that’s getting a ton of mileage this season (I was too skittish about the green with the fuchsia, which I now admit was silly). Her black and blue lavaliere blouse is my favorite, ever. The red coat from Fall 2013 will be getting a new airing this Christmas. As I scroll back through the designer’s other ready-to-wear collections—and yes, couture, too, but let’s stick to reality—I regret not pushing my credit limit a bit more. A lot more, actually.” —Tina Isaac-Goizé, Contributing Editor

Prada Spring 1997
Prada Spring 1997
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

“If Prada would just reissue its Spring 1997 collection, I could stop wasting so much time trawling eBay for those perfect military-inspired button-downs and pencil skirts and chinoiserie platform sandals in my size.” —Maya Singer, Contributing Editor

Marc Jacobs Resort 2013
Marc Jacobs Resort 2013
Photo: Courtesy of Marc Jacobs

“My colleague and friend Steff Yotka and I are both obsessed with Marc Jacobs’s Resort 2013 collection, and I finally pulled the trigger on Look 2: a lemon floral gown with an open back (purchased on The RealReal, naturally). Steff has a handful of pieces from the collection and wears them so well. They’re timeless but not the way a basic black turtleneck is timeless; instead, they’re happy, fresh, and already a little vintage, so I’d like to think they’ll never go out of style. I’d like to line my entire wardrobe with those bold florals and shades of orange, turquoise, yellow, and bright red; a reissue would make that so much easier!” —Emily Farra, Senior Fashion News Writer

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010
Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010
Photo: Indigital.tv

“Though the designer has changed (and I think Riccardo Tisci is doing a great job thus far) and the Prorsum moniker has been dropped, I’d still buy the hell out of Burberry Prorsum’s Fall 2010 men’s collection. Look 44’s long, storm cloud gray shearling coat with a double standing collar and triple-banded leather accents on the sleeves was not only the best-in-show piece but best-in-season, and easily a top five ‘wish I’d bought that’ item.” —Nick Remsen, Contributing Editor

Christian Dior Fall 2004
Christian Dior Fall 2004
Photo: Style.com Archival

“It’s not practical, it’s not chic, it’s not appropriate, and yet, this Dior Fall 2004 romper, actually, all of the show’s leopard-meets-plaid looks, remain one of my ultimate fashion grails. I can’t resist!” —Steff Yotka, Fashion News and Emerging Platforms Editor

“Cynics would argue that the Dior Homme Spring 2002 collection is already being—at least in essence—reissued over at Celine as we speak. However, I’d love to go back and consult the source material (of his own invention) that Hedi Slimane has since re-riffed on over and over again. He’s like a great artist, always on tour, who plays the same standards with a different inflection and improvisational twist every night.” —Luke Leitch, Contributing Editor

Gucci Fall 1995
Gucci Fall 1995
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

“Not a crazy fan of reissuing collections—lots of time spent on eBay searching for the OG stuff—but if I had my choice, I’d want Tom Ford–era Gucci from Fall 1995. I bought a silk blue shirt from the collection earlier this year that gave me an existential crisis and a story. Anyways, it would be nice to have a similar blue shirt as backup . . . you know, if I spill salad dressing.” —Liana Satenstein, Senior Fashion News Writer

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