Dreams are coming true for Topeka chef Adam VanDonge.

Five years after opening The White Linen in downtown Topeka, VanDonge is a semifinalist in the James Beard Awards for the best chef of the Midwest. He is one of 20 semifinalists, three of whom are restaurant owners in the Kansas City area.

The James Beard Awards are considered to be among the nation’s most prestigious honors. The foundation recognizes "exceptional talent in the culinary and food media industries." Finalists will be announced March 29.

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Making the semifinals was a shock for VanDonge, who had long aspired for James Beard Award recognition.

"James Beard is just one of those awards, that anybody who's in the hospitality industry — bartending, restaurant owners, chefs — it's one of those awards that you dream about," VanDonge said. "It's the top award you can get. So, to be top 20 in the Midwest is just insane.

"Just being a semifinalist, I think that just sets the bar higher for me personally to come up with better menus and better ideas, and it pushes my team, too."

Winners will be celebrated at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards Ceremony on June 5 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.

The love of cooking derives from growing up around the kitchen

VanDonge graduated from Onaga High School and earned an associate degree from Allen County Community College and a bachelor’s degree in general studies from Emporia State University. He then earned an associate of arts degree in culinary arts in 2010 from the Art Institutes International-Kansas City.

He said it was a "long two years" commuting from Kansas City to Topeka daily. But growing up and watching his grandmother in the kitchen motivated him to remain in hospitality.

"Just seeing all that stuff at a young age, it gets embedded in you." VanDonge said. "All through high school, all through college, I played around with food. I loved cooking and experimenting things."

A monthly dish at The White Linen might be quail, pheasant or elk, with each influenced by growing up on a small farm.

"I don't know if I have a favorite dish, but I love doing wild grain stuff," VanDonge said. "A lot of that is kind of pushing that envelope here in Topeka and that's probably some of my favorite stuff we've done. Just because if people come in and trust me to order it, I'll make sure it's cooked and flavored properly."

Dreams of making an impact on fine dining in Topeka coming true

The gourmet chef opened White Linen, 112 S.W. 6th Ave., in December 2017 with his wife, Kasie. They wanted to bring fine dining to the capital city and showcase that Topekans can enjoy exquisite eating as in larger cities.

Before opening The White Linen, Adam was the former owner and chef of 5th Street Sandwich Shoppe in Holton. It opened in late 2014 with VanDonge offered a monthly, rotating menu of five sandwiches and soups.

And in the backroom of 5th Street Sandwich Shoppe, VanDonge opened The Drum Room in Holton, a fine dining restaurant where he presented a fine dining experience once a month.

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"We've come a long way," said Kasi VanDonge. "I think that's an understatement. We had a hard time getting people in the small town of Holton to step out of their comfort zones.

"I'll never forget the time I suggested to Adam to add bone marrow to our menu in Holton, and he just did not think that would go over well — and now it's not unheard of for us to add that all the time to our current menu."

Adam VanDonge said the couple took a chance on downtown Topeka.

"You look back at Topeka five years ago and there was no Pennant, Iron Rail, no Plaza," he said. "We were one of the few that came down here before all this other stuff blew up. So, it was just being patient and knowing we had to keep our head down and keep pushing and keep educating Topeka and its guests on fine dining.

"A lot of Topeka wasn't used to that. They were used to Wanamaker and the chain restaurants."

Sacrifices are made in the culinary industry

Since 2017, VanDonge debuted a brunch service in 2021 at The White Linen. It's available the first weekend of every month. He then opened the Knox Cocktail Bar & Lounge, across the hall in late 2022.

He said the fine dining process is about remaining patient and being open to learning. Educating others is also important because it's "one of the toughest industries out there."

"You sacrifice holidays and birthdays, family things, your weekends," VanDonge said. "You just sacrifice a lot of stuff and that's why I made a post thanking my family because I've missed a ton of stuff, but they're awesome because they support me."

Kasi VanDonge said they understood those sacrifices when they opened The White Linen.

"It's just part of the industry," she said. "All of our wait staff miss things to and our kitchen misses things that are important to them, and it's unfortunate. It's why we love the industry — and it's why we hate the industry — but hopefully everyone at The White Linen and The Knox have people in their lives who are understanding, and I think they do."

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Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation congratulated all semifinalists in a news release.

“After a year of fundamental changes, we look forward to building on the progress made," Reichenbach said. "Celebrating those paving a better future for us all — through their talent and craft, service to others, and commitment to a better, more sustainable industry."

Kasi VanDonge said her husband's humble demeanor speaks a lot for his character as a chef.

"He doesn't want to make a big deal about it," she said of the James Beard recognition. "In fact we haven't talked about it in our house since. We've just moved on. You know, the industry doesn't wait for anyone. So, everyday he's still putting back-breaking work in with or without this nomination.

"But, of course, we're thrilled!"

For Adam VanDonge, the recognition is validation of his vision.

"I always said from day one, I wanted to put Topeka on the map for fine dining," he said. "I knew it'd be tough, but here we are."

Keishera Lately is the business reporter for the Topeka Capital-Journal. She can be reached at klately@cjonline.com. Follow her on Twitter @Lately_KT.

This article originally appeared on Topeka Capital-Journal: Topeka's White Linen chef Adam VanDonge semifinalist for James Beard