Tupelo cook says key to good food is simplicity
Jul. 5—TUPELO — Denny Waite grew up in Tupelo's Bristow Acres in what seems like a simpler time. His mother, Rose, cooked the family's meals during the week. His dad, Dennis, grilled steaks with baked potatoes and salad on Sunday nights. And on Friday evenings, it was a tradition and a treat for the family to go out to eat at the Pizza Hut on West Main.
"We didn't have snacks in our house," said Waite, 50. "We didn't come home and have access to chips and cookies. You ate at the table, and that was it."
Waite, the deputy director of landscape services for Tupelo's Park and Recreation Department, said he didn't even eat Hamburger Helper until after he and his wife, Ginnie, married 19 years ago.
"My mother cooked everything from scratch, and we never had leftovers," he said. "If my dad grilled, it was a quick grill, like steaks or pork chops. He didn't put things on the smoker — he didn't do long cooks."
Waite's love of barbecue came later, when he and some buddies started cooking together. He was part of a group in Tupelo called the Hog Roasters, who would cook together to raise money for the American Cancer Society. Later, he joined the All America City Hoggers barbecue team.
"We competed in KCBS events, amateur events," he said. "We've learned from each other over the years. I typically did pork butts, somebody else did chicken, one would do ribs, and someone else did brisket."
Waite now volunteers to cook his pork butts for the Saltillo High School cheerleaders' concession stand on Friday nights when there are home football games. Daughter Anna Elizabeth is at SHS, while Sallye Catherine attends Guntown Middle School.
"I use my pork butts to make street tacos at the games," he said. "I've started a firestorm with that. There are people who come to the ballgames just to eat with us. We also do a barbecue sandwich and a Tiger Dog, which is a hotdog topped with barbecue, baked beans, slaw, barbecue sauce and served in a boat with a fork and knife."
Waite said the secret to good pork butts — or anything else he cooks — is simplicity.
"Everybody and his brother watches videos on YouTube, cooking shows on TV, and then they have a tendency to overcomplicate things," he said. "Perfect what you do. Be comfortable with your own recipe. It's OK to incorporate things you've learned from other people, but don't get caught up in doing something you're not comfortable doing. The biggest thing about cooking anything is not to make it too complicated. Don't lose focus of what you're trying to do."
DO YOU KNOW A GOOD COOK? Send your nominations to Ginna Parsons, Cook of the Week, P.O. Box 909, Tupelo, MS 38802. Or you can call 662-678-1581 or email them to ginna.parsons@journalinc.com.
CORN SALAD
2 (29-ounce) cans whole kernel corn, drained
1 cup Blue Plate mayonnaise
1/2 red onion, roughly chopped
1 cucumber, peeled and chopped
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
Salt and pepper
Garlic powder
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and chill in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours. Best served cold. Makes 10 to 14 servings.
PORK BUTT
MEAT AND RUB
1 (8- to 10-pound) good-quality pork butt
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup kosher salt
1 cup black pepper
1/2 cup chili powder
1/2 cup paprika
6 tablespoons turmeric
2 tablespoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons onion powder
2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
VINEGAR SAUCE
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup ketchup
1/2 cup hot sauce
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
1/2 cup sugar
Pat the pork butt dry. In a bowl, combine sugars, kosher salt, pepper, chili powder, paprika, turmeric, garlic powder, onion powder and cayenne pepper.
Apply the rub all over the pork butt (store leftover rub in an airtight container for later use). Wrap the butt in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Heat the smoker to 225 degrees. Place butt on the smoker and cook until an internal temperature reaches 200 degrees. Let butt rest for an hour before shredding. Add sauce to taste.
For the sauce, in a stockpot over medium heat, combine the vinegar, ketchup and hot sauce. Add salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and sugar and stir to dissolve. Do not boil. When the spices are dissolved, remove the pot from heat and funnel the sauce into a bottle. Sauce will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 year.
HICKORY SAUCE
2 tablespoons onion powder
2 tablespoons garlic powder
2 cups ketchup
2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika
2/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a blender and pulse until thoroughly combined. Pour into a medium pot, and stir continuously over medium heat until heated through. Do not boil. Remove and use while hot.
If reserving for a later use, allow the mixture to cool, then pour into a large bottle or container and store, refrigerated, for up to 1 year.
