Twelve Days in Heaven (aka Botswana), Part 1 -- Chitabe Camp [PHOTOS]

Susan Portnoy
Updated

Botswana is a magical land of lush plains, staggeringly beautiful sunsets and wildlife that will blow your mind. Over 12 days I explored four camps, in various regions of the Okavango Delta, each with their own personality: Chitabe, Vumbura Plains, Abu and Mombo. Whether you're a world traveler or a part-time adventurer, you may want to add these to your bucket list.

First up:Chitabe

"Don't worry," Ebs, my guide, said as he started the jeep. "He'll be here when we get back." I stared up at the cat, not sure I wanted to take the chance he'd leave before we returned. Nestled in the crook of a large tree about 20 feet up lay a male leopard, eyes closed, his tail hanging endlessly down the trunk. He didn't seem as if he would be going anywhere.

I'd finally made it to the Okavango Delta after 22 hours and three planes -- the last one resembling a smart car with wings. Ebs had just picked me up at Chitabe's landing strip when he spotted the leopard, and as we headed toward camp I remember thinking that if my first sighting was such a typically elusive animal, it might be a good omen for the rest of my stay. As it turns out, it was.

When we arrived at the camp, staff members greeted us with large smiles and enthusiastic waves. Reflexively, I returned the greeting, embracing the welcome like a warm puppy. A woman offered me a chilled towel (a refreshing treat that would be repeated throughout the trip) to wipe away the mix of dust and sweat I'd picked up on my journey. After a few moments of gracious small talk, I was escorted to the main area where I would be advised of the camp's rules* and then on to my tent to freshen up. My adventure had officially begun.

Chitabe is located in the southeast section of the Okavango Delta. The small camp features eight large, Meru-style tents anchored by a central thatched meeting area where guests dine, relax and enjoy swapping stories around a knotted tree trunk that doubles as a bar. Raised boardwalks weave through the trees, connecting each tent to the main building.

My tent was a large, charming studio cloaked in deep-green canvas over permanent fixtures such as planked floors, an en suite bathroom and indoor and outdoor showers. Black and white accents gave the dￃﾩcor a sophisticated air, but overall the room was delightfully cozy. The comfy, queen-size bed was canopied, and at night a wispy mosquito netting was draped around it. Outside, a large deck overlooked the tall grassy plains of acid green and yellow grass -- colors so vivid they almost seemed artificially enhanced.

Game Drives
Around 4:30 pm, after meeting my jeep mates, a honeymooning couple from the Northwest, we set out on my first official game drive and, for me, the now infamous tree. Just as Ebs had promised, we found the leopard still perched on high, the rays of the setting sun streaking across his face. As if he'd been waiting for us to arrive, he yawned and then climbed down the trunk only a few feet from our position, causing us city folk to hold our breaths. With a sideways glance, he gracefully strolled past us and moved into the high grass, stopping to clean himself as if we weren't sitting awestruck only 30 feet away. After an hour of watching this magnificent creature roam the bush, the light left the sky and we left him, all high fives and excitement and looking forward to sharing our sighting with the other guests.

Over the next three days, we saw some amazing wildlife. One morning we followed two male lions over half a mile as they tracked the rest of their pride. When the pride was in sight, the females and cubs bounded over, nuzzling their bodies against the males in greeting. Another time, we watched hippos fight, wide-mouthed and ferocious, for dominance. We laughed as a troop of baboons played with each other with uncanny human behaviors and mannerisms that belied their primate status, and witnessed dozens of screeching vultures scavenge the carcass of an unfortunate Impala.

During each morning game drive, we stopped in some gorgeous location to enjoy a light snack and a spot of tea. At night, we gathered with the other guests and indulged in a bush tradition called a "sundowner," where we would add wine or champagne to the equation and relax as we chatted and watched the sunset.

That special something
Back in camp, Chitabe's casual vibe encouraged mixing and spirited conversation between guests and staff alike. The guides were on hand to answer the 4 million wildlife questions that popped into my head at any given moment. Meals were served buffet-style, and we ate at a single large feast table. As a solo traveler, it was a delightful way to enjoy the company of others without feeling like an intruder. Of all the camps on my journey, Chitabe inspired the most camaraderie. It was that inspiring atmosphere that helped me to foster a friendship with two other guests, Johanna and Alexandra, longtime friends whose itinerary nearly matched mine. As luck would have it, I would continue on with my journey to Vurumba Plains and Abu with these two adventurous ladies.

Camp details
• Camp activities/amenities: Day and night game drives. Walking safaris upon request. Bird-watching. Small pool. Curio shop.
• My guide: Ebs (pronounced Eebs)
• In-room amenities: Safe; fee laundry service (except for undies; liquid detergent is available in the room for a little DIY); shampoo and conditioner (not a fan, bring your own eco-friendly supply); and bath gel.
• Eco-conscious: Keeping the environment top of mind, Chitabe and my other camps provided aluminum water bottles for guests and plenty of water to keep us hydrated.
• Animals in camp: During my stay, I saw very few animals in camp, but every day is different in the bush.
• Recommendations: Bring a travel-size power strip if you want to charge multiple devices at once. There's only a couple of outlets in the room.
• FYI: Hairdryers in your room no-no here because they drain too much on the camp's generator. If you don't have a drip-dry do, you might want to pack a scrunchie or a baseball cap. If desperate, the staff can provide a hairdryer to use in their training room.

I recommend Chitabe for...
• Solo travelers. It's a great place to enjoy the bush and meet new people.
• People who feel more at home with casual luxury than opulence.
• Travelers who prefer small, intimate properties rather than larger facilities with more guests.

Next up, Vurumba Plains....

*Interested in learning more about safaris? Please read my general overviewhere.

Meet my very first sighting on my trip. Leopards are elusive animals so I figured at the time it must be a good omen. As fate would have it, I had spectacular sightings throughout my entire stay. © Susan Portnoy
Meet my very first sighting on my trip. Leopards are elusive animals so I figured at the time it must be a good omen. As fate would have it, I had spectacular sightings throughout my entire stay. © Susan Portnoy
After leaving the sanctuary of his tree, my "first-sighting" leopard plunked down in the tall grass and proceeded to give himself a bath. The fact that we were less than 30 feet away didn't phase him a bit. Granted, had we stepped out of the jeep I think he would have been far less blasé. © Susan Portnoy
After leaving the sanctuary of his tree, my "first-sighting" leopard plunked down in the tall grass and proceeded to give himself a bath. The fact that we were less than 30 feet away didn't phase him a bit. Granted, had we stepped out of the jeep I think he would have been far less blasé. © Susan Portnoy
My room at Chitabe camp. It was casual yet luxurious and very cozy. I loved the elephant photograph over the bed. The bathroom: his and her sinks, plus a shower, were located behind the wall at the back of the bed. An outside shower was adjacent to the deck out front. At night the breeze would drift in through the screens. The staff would roll down the flaps over the screens at night but I would lift them again because I loved the fresh air. Mosquito netting and incense that doubled as bug repellent kept any mosquitoes that made it inside from being an issue. © Susan Portnoy
A young lion that was temporarily separated from his pride. Moments later he scampered by our jeep to rejoin the group. © Susan Portnoy
A young lion that was temporarily separated from his pride. Moments later he scampered by our jeep to rejoin the group. © Susan Portnoy
The main meeting room and bar, at Chitabe. To the left were some stairs that led down to a circular area with chairs and a fire bit. Great for casual conversations after a long day. To the right you can see a glimpse of the raised boardwalks that led to the jeeps and our tents. © Susan Portnoy
The main meeting room and bar, at Chitabe. To the left were some stairs that led down to a circular area with chairs and a fire bit. Great for casual conversations after a long day. To the right you can see a glimpse of the raised boardwalks that led to the jeeps and our tents. © Susan Portnoy
After a 4 hour game drive, all the guests meet somewhere in the bush to enjoy some cocktails and hors d'oeuvres and watch the sun set. A bush tradition called a "sundowner." © Susan Portnoy
After a 4 hour game drive, all the guests meet somewhere in the bush to enjoy some cocktails and hors d'oeuvres and watch the sun set. A bush tradition called a "sundowner." © Susan Portnoy
One night as we watched the sun set, a short distance away, a herd of elephants passed by our merry group. It was actually quite dark by the time these beauties strolled by so I had to jack up the ISO on my camera to get a decent hand held shot. © Susan Portnoy
One night as we watched the sun set, a short distance away, a herd of elephants passed by our merry group. It was actually quite dark by the time these beauties strolled by so I had to jack up the ISO on my camera to get a decent hand held shot. © Susan Portnoy
Ebs, my guide on the left. BB, another guide, in the middle. Another staff member whose name I I have forgotten (sorry), on the right. The guides are a fountain of information and the soul of each camp. © Susan Portnoy
Ebs, my guide on the left. BB, another guide, in the middle. Another staff member whose name I I have forgotten (sorry), on the right. The guides are a fountain of information and the soul of each camp. © Susan Portnoy
The sun sets on the plains. These lanterns are placed around the area we meet for sundowners. They serve to light our little group's cocktail hour as well as ward off any nearby predators. © Susan Portnoy
The sun sets on the plains. These lanterns are placed around the area we meet for sundowners. They serve to light our little group's cocktail hour as well as ward off any nearby predators. © Susan Portnoy
A couple of handsome males we followed in search of their pride, walk just a few feet from our jeep at sunrise. © Susan Portnoy
A couple of handsome males we followed in search of their pride, walk just a few feet from our jeep at sunrise. © Susan Portnoy
One of the males from the previous shot. You can tell he's an adult because a lion's mane darkens with age. © Susan Portnoy
One of the males from the previous shot. You can tell he's an adult because a lion's mane darkens with age. © Susan Portnoy
Family reunion. Members of the pride took turns nuzzling the males as they approached. Seriously adorable. © Susan Portnoy
Family reunion. Members of the pride took turns nuzzling the males as they approached. Seriously adorable. © Susan Portnoy
A grounded horn bill. A helluva strange looking bird. He along with a friend were trolling the high grass for food. As you can see from the frog <em>and</em> snake in his beak, he was having a pretty good day. © Susan Portnoy
A grounded horn bill. A helluva strange looking bird. He along with a friend were trolling the high grass for food. As you can see from the frog and snake in his beak, he was having a pretty good day. © Susan Portnoy
A red lechwe resembles a painting more than a flesh and blood creature in this shot. © Susan Portnoy
A red lechwe resembles a painting more than a flesh and blood creature in this shot. © Susan Portnoy
One of the things I love about baboons is that their behavior is so familiar. Almost everything they do reminds me of some human interaction. I don't know about you, but when I look at these two I see a man standing patiently as his wife adjusts his bowie - right? Granted, she's one of many females he's probably "dating", and that's a tick or some other bug she's "adjusting", but you get my drift. © Susan Portnoy
The three hedgehogs in this photo were blindly strolling toward this lioness who was laying patiently in the grass, when something alerted them to her presence. In a flash they high-tailed it (literally), in the other direction. The poor female was left in the dust. © Susan Portnoy
The three hedgehogs in this photo were blindly strolling toward this lioness who was laying patiently in the grass, when something alerted them to her presence. In a flash they high-tailed it (literally), in the other direction. The poor female was left in the dust. © Susan Portnoy
You will see impala everywhere, and I mean everywhere, in Botswana. They hang in large groups and are often skittish when it comes to getting close to jeeps. They are also quite beautiful. © Susan Portnoy
You will see impala everywhere, and I mean everywhere, in Botswana. They hang in large groups and are often skittish when it comes to getting close to jeeps. They are also quite beautiful. © Susan Portnoy
The circle of life. Vultures scavenge the remains of an unlucky impala. © Susan Portnoy
The circle of life. Vultures scavenge the remains of an unlucky impala. © Susan Portnoy
One of my favorite animals: The kudu. Check out those horns. © Susan Portnoy
One of my favorite animals: The kudu. Check out those horns. © Susan Portnoy
Little known fact: Giraffe practice yoga. © Susan Portnoy
Little known fact: Giraffe practice yoga. © Susan Portnoy
Hippos kill more humans than any other animal in the bush. They're very territorial and when you get too close to their water they can make quite a fuss. The male in the back is showing us his big banana-sized teeth and the dude on the right has decided to stand up in the water so that we can get a look at his truck-size physique. We chose to stay at a distance. © Susan Portnoy