This Underrated Greek Gem Has Waterfalls, Vineyards, and Very Few Tourists
This is the latest for our series on underrated destinations, It's Still a Big World.
If it seems like everyone you know spent time in Mykonos and Santorini in 2022, it’s because they did. A whopping 33 million people visited Greece in 2019 and this year’s count is expected to exceed pre-pandemic numbers. That bright blue Mediterranean water and whitewashed Cycladic architecture would stir up FOMO in the best of us, me included. I’ve never been to the Greek islands so I can’t tell you what you’ll miss if you opt out, but I can tell you I just spent some time in the mountains of Central Greece instead, and I’m so glad I did.
I had never heard of Evrytania before my friend, who is Greek, announced that she would be getting married in its capital city, Karpenisi. A wedding that doubles as a vacation? Count me in. A place that’s not overrun with tourists? Even better! Elation aside, I really had no idea what to expect when planning for this trip except that Karpenisi would be cooler than Athens, where the temps were nearing 100 degrees Fahrenheit toward the end of July.
“Pack a swimsuit, but you’ll also want a cardigan or a sweater,” my friend advised.
A quick geography lesson before we dive in: One-fifth of Greece is made up of islands, where most tourists go (like Mykonos, Santorini and more recently popularized Naxos, Milos, and Crete). But the country is actually divided into six main regions—Central Greece being one of them. Here, you’ll find Evrytania (where there are 184 villages), a mountainous region that some people like to call the Switzerland of Greece, thanks to its milder climate and opportunities to ski and participate in other snow sports in the winter. But it is HIGHLY underrated in the summer. So even if a three-and-a-half hour drive northwest of Athens doesn’t sound right up your alley, please trust me on this one. It is worth it. Stop halfway for a little stretch and have lunch seaside; you can even take an energizing dip in the water before getting back on the road.
The sister city to Asheville (yes, Blue Ridge, coffee roasters, and beer-rich Asheville), Karpenisi’s topography and weather patterns have been compared to North Carolina’s many times. I’d sooner connect it to U.S. states like California or Colorado, but maybe that’s just because they’re more familiar to me. Evrytania is crisp and green, a model for environmental cleanliness in Europe and beyond. It’s a place where you just want to stop for a second and breathe it all in, literally and figuratively.
The car ride to Karpenisi and its neighboring village Megalo Chorio isn’t too bad, albeit with some twists and turns similar to a West Coast road trip. At an altitude above 3,000 feet, my friends and I (amusing to us, probably annoying to everyone else) could not stop exclaiming that Central Greece—with its fruit trees, hilly vistas and copious vineyards—reminded us of California. “This feels just like Topanga Canyon,” I’d squeal, and then my friend would chime in, “Oh wow, now we’re Ojai!”
Where to Stay
I stayed in Megalo Chorio (translates to “Big Village”), not far from Mount Timfristos (also known as Mount Velouchi)—a popular ski resort Greek travelers like to visit in winter. A hidden gem, a treasure, whatever you want to call it, this place is just pure gold. You can see the constellations and the Milky Way at night, every night. My first evening in town I even witnessed two shooting stars while sitting on my hotel balcony. Here, there are plenty of small lodges, cafes, and shops. Grape vines decorate the front yards of solid stone homes and olive trees line most streets. English is hardly spoken in the villages so communicating is a challenge faced beautifully with body language and some variation of sign language. At one point, we were handed a pen by a local shop owner and attempted to draw our questions, playing charades of sorts, in order to find out what time his store closed.
In town, we booked a room at the cute, cozy, and affordably-priced Levanta Hotel, while the bridal party stayed next door at Forest Suites Boutique Hotel, which was also pretty inexpensive. I’d definitely consider Forest Suites next time as it had a pool with sweeping forest views and a little outdoor bar, where guests helped themselves to cold drinks out of a cooler. The honor system seems to work well here, similar to other European cities like San Sebastian.
What really sold me in Evrytania was being able to spend full days exploring on foot, stopping every now and then to feast on 6€ carafes of wine, paired with potatoes, sausage, feta, and super fresh tomato salads. In Megalo Chorio, you can schedule horseback riding excursions or you can check out the kafenios (Greek coffee shops) and pubs of bordering villages. Hop in the car for adventures that are a little further away like hiking trails, waterfalls, and gloriously refreshing swimming holes. There’s a beautiful monastery within driving distance, too.
What to Do
If you need an automatic car for your journey, book ahead. Way ahead. Automatic cars tend to sell out, especially in summer. And you’ll definitely want to stay in Athens for a night, whether it’s the day you land or the one before you head back to the airport. While here, make dinner reservations ahead of time as the restaurant scene in Athens is hot and the No. 1 reason I will return to the city. These were my favorites: Nolan, Seychelles and Proveleggios.
Once you get on the road, stop at Tavern Drosia en route from Athens to Karpenisi. It’s a low-key outdoor restaurant on the coast with an absolutely gorgeous view. Maybe even download Duolingo for the drive? It would benefit you to learn essential Greek words beforehand, like please and thank you (efcharistó), good morning (kaliméra) and good evening. “Can I pay with a credit card?” is another good one. I learned how to say “chestnut” (kástano) once I started wandering through the villages, which I’ll admit isn’t the most useful translation to remember, but the homemade chestnut butters sold locally are quite delicious. Full disclosure: I thought it was cashew and had to look up the translation, but I was pretty close.
Which brings me to my next point: Do say yes to trying every sample that’s offered to you in every single shop, whether it’s thick, raw honey or stone fruit jams or mystery shots poured from hand-labeled bottles.
Carve out a full day or two to explore nature, including but not limited to waterfalls, lakes, and cool rock formations. But, I was carsick the whole time, so if you tend to get motion sickness, it’s important to prep for it. These roads rival the windiest, narrowest parts of the Pacific Coast Highway both in beauty and in I’m-not-gonna-make-it factor. Do pack Dramamine or gum or ginger candies (whatever works) for the car rides.
Immerse yourself in the culture. Learn the country’s etiquette (bikinis are for the beach, shirts and shoes are required everywhere else) and a traditional Greek dance if you attend a party or wedding. This goes without being said, but I’ll say it anyway: Try all the wine! Savatiano is one of the oldest grapes and is grown in Central Greece; Assyrtiko is probably the most common Greek grape and is found all over the country.
Do go chasing waterfalls at Mount Timifristos and you should also go boating on Lake Kremasta, the largest artificial lake in Greece. Rafting in the Tavropos (aka Megdovas) river is another fun option. Book an inn with a pool–you will need it in warmer months–or cool off at a nearby pool bar like Kasmir Restaurant & Pool Bar.
Do romance a Greek boy (or girl!). I most certainly would have if I’d stayed longer. Whether you have a whirlwind fling or not, though, you will definitely fall in love with the kitties. There are stray cats everywhere, befriend them all. Quite a few big and lazy dogs around town that mostly minded their own business, as well.
Invite friends to join you on this trip! I felt so safe and I’m sure it could be the most zen solo trip, but you’ll probably also want to share driving responsibilities with someone and have a friend along who can convince you the water’s not that cold when your body all of a sudden stops working the moment it’s your turn to jump in a waterfall.
Last, but never least: Dine and drink until you physically cannot. Greek yogurt with honey, meze, figs and cheeses, souvlaki, gyros, Tiropita (a flaky filo feta pie), Greek frappes, sardines and more, more, more. A few spots where you can check out the local culinary scene: The central Square of Karpenisi (a little village with shops, restaurants, pubs and an open-air square), Agios Athanasios Tavern which is walking distance from Levanta and Forest Suites, and the Horiatiko Nasiopoulos where you can chow down on traditional dishes like vine leaves, stuffed tomatoes, lamb skewers, grilled meats, bean soups, and Baklava.
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