United Standard Men’s Spring 2020

Katya Foreman

Referencing Nineties techno and rave culture, the collection chimed with the synthetic, industrial, technical sportswear thing that’s very of-the-moment in Milan this season, while remaining very sellable.

Dubbed “Machine Vision,” Giorgio Di Salvo for his second official show looked to the algorithms behind image recognition as a starting point for experimenting with technical materials, with infrared images among the leitmotifs, and a Chinese military camera positioned in the center of the runway.

Related stories

Front Row at Erdem Fall 2018

To Price a Yeezy: A Day in the Life of a RealReal Streetwear Appraiser

H&M Says "Hard Work" Still Needed as Q2 Sales Rise 11%

The research included a high-tech material developed by i-Mesh, a company that used to specialize in sails: a Kevlar-type mesh that he was drawn to for its ethnic aspect. “It’s the first time it’s been used on apparel,” he said backstage.

More literal — and creepy — spins on the theme included a long-sleeved top with an image of a face captured in a crowd, taken from a facial recognition camera.

He also collaborated with Majocchi, a leading supplier to the military and workwear industries, on a superlight, breathable, silver material used on everything from vests to pants, as well as a look made from a triple-layer, breathable fabric used for British military uniforms and sporting the technical description of the fabric, even if the aim in this collection was to pull back on the graphics — his background — “and focus on the apparel.”

The jewelry included a silver crucifix made from four USB keys.

Launch Gallery: United Standard Men's Spring 2020

Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.