Upscale pizzeria from ‘insane’ California opens soon in ‘friendly,’ ‘refreshing’ Meridian

Michael Deeds
·4 min read

Don’t get Eric Schnetz wrong. California life’s been good to him so far.

Born there but raised in Chicago, he returned and eventually launched his first Chicago Fire pizzeria in Historic Folsom. Two decades later, Schnetz owns four locations in the Sacramento area.

Still, Schnetz admits, he’s been captivated recently. Visiting Idaho to expand his mini-empire, Schnetz is able to fantasize about moving to the Gem State permanently. Just like so many of his West Cost brethren.

On the other hand, he has kids back home. And grandkids.

“If it wasn’t for that, I’d love to,” Schnetz confesses, phoning from his soon-to-open Meridian restaurant.

Instead, Schnetz will do the next best thing — business in Idaho.

On Monday, he’ll open the first Chicago Fire outside California. Situated at 3004 N. Eagle Road in Meridian, it’s in the former Barrel 55 building at Gateway Marketplace.

Why open an Idaho restaurant at all?

“I can’t make any money in California!” Schnetz says with a laugh. “The overhead is just so high, and there’s headwinds against business in California from the occupancy costs to real estate — just the rent itself. And utilities are insane! ... There’s a lot of other liabilities there, too. The wage lawsuits that come are insane.

“It’s just like a shakedown!” he says, chuckling.

The only thing shaking down in Meridian? Mozzarella, come Monday afternoon, when Chicago Fire starts serving pies.

Chicago Fire prides itself in the “energy and the atmosphere” of its upscale-casual environment, owner Eric Schnetz says. That said? “The food comes first.”
Chicago Fire prides itself in the “energy and the atmosphere” of its upscale-casual environment, owner Eric Schnetz says. That said? “The food comes first.”

Authentic, upscale

Chicago Fire is not your typical worn-out pizza joint. With a liquor license and a welcoming interior filled with high-back leather booths and millwork, it’s upscale-casual yet family-friendly. “It’s not white tablecloth, but we have sculpted Chicago skyline glass that’s backlit — stuff like that,” Schnetz says. “It’s pretty cool.”

(The liquor license will be delayed until a couple of weeks after opening, by the way. Curse that Idaho red tape!)

But the main reason Chicago Fire will stand out in the Boise area? The pizza, Schnetz says: “It’s very authentic.”

“It’s the texture of the pizza and the flavor of the pizza,” he explains. “The Wisconsin cheese does not taste like California cheese, does not taste like Idaho cheese. ... It tastes like Wisconsin cheese. It’s a different thing.”

If you’re a Chicago Fire first-timer choosing a pie? “I think you get something with sausage,” Schnetz recommends. The restaurant uses Anichini Brothers sausage made in Chicago. “A third-generation Italian family, the Anichini Brothers,” he says. “They still supply all the Chicago pizza restaurants, including the original Gino’s and Uno’s.”

Chicago Fire pies are offered in a mega-filling, deep-dish version or “crispy, crackery” thin-crust option, Schnetz says.

Bueller? Bueller?

The menu is straightforward. Yet one signature pie stands out — at least to 1980s movie fans: The Abe Froman, named after the “sausage king of Chicago” from “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.” It comes with “a lil’ more cheese” and “lil’ more sausage.” Sausage is available in fennel, garlic or hot styles.

Chicago Fire’s website brags that “a lot has changed” over the years, “but we still make our doughs, sauces, croutons ... and dressings from scratch, every day.”

That goes for the chicken wings, too, Schnetz says — and it makes a difference. “They’re crispy, juicy, but they’re not mushy,” he explains. Those will sell for about $15 a pound, or $27 for two pounds and $48 for four pounds.

“If you want to go out with the guys and have some beers and some wings, you can do that here for a meal,” he says.

“But,” he adds, “pizza is the star of the show.”

Everything comes in three sizes at Chicago Fire, including salads.

And although wings and salads will be priced similarly to Chicago Fire restaurants in California, the pizza will not.

You gotta love Idaho.

Pizzas come in three sizes: small, medium and large.
Pizzas come in three sizes: small, medium and large.

Cheaper in Idaho

If you go big and order, say, a large deep-dish combo, it costs $39.50 at a Chicago Fire in California.

In Meridian? It will be $33.80, Schnetz says. The pizza is priced to not exceed the spendiest competitors in the area, he says.

Less-expensive pies are a passed-along perk. Leasing a building in Meridian costs maybe 60 percent of what it would in a similar spot in the Golden State, Schnetz estimates.

Cheaper to do business or not, he’s staying in California. Really. He’s not moving here. Yet ... .

“And the people here are so friendly,” Schnetz continues. “It is so obvious everywhere you go, the difference in the level of stress that people live with here as compared to California. People out there are so uptight. It’s so refreshing.

“I just can’t wait to serve these customers,” Schnetz says. “Let me tell you.”

▪ Chicago Fire’s hours will be 3 to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Takeout and delivery will be available soon; check chicagofire.com for updates.