WARNING: Safaris Are Highly Addictive! A Primer for the Adventure of a Lifetime (PHOTOS)

I recently returned from Botswana after 12 days on safari. It was my third such trip -- the previous two being in South Africa and Tanzania -- and the minute my plane left Africa for home, I wanted to return. I've been all over the world, and while I've enjoyed every destination, nothing has affected me so deeply. If you've been thinking about going on safari, be warned: It's highly addictive, and for many, like me, it may change your life.

Is a safari for you?

I find that being on safari is a magical blend of blissful serenity and unbridled excitement. It's the elusive answer to a little soul renewal. The serenity comes from an almost mythical beauty coupled with a total lack of responsibility. On safari, everything is arranged for you: You'll enjoy game drives -- typically four to five hours -- in the morning, starting before sunrise, and again before sunset. In between, you can read, nap, or chat with fellow guests. Although camps may offer other activities such as mokoro rides (a small, dug-out boat that sits low in the water), excursions to visit local tribes, or helicopter tours, game viewing is the focus.

The eight to ten hours per day in the bush is where the magic happens. It's like the most thrilling scavenger hunt you'll ever undertake. Around every bush could be a pride of hungry lions. Flying overhead, an eagle. Or a large herd of elephants could come crashing through the trees around you, trumpeting and rumbling in panic, set off by the smell of wild dogs. (This actually happened to me, by the way, and it was absolutely thrilling. See the slideshow below for an image) I don't have the words to describe the feeling you get when you see these extraordinary creatures in the wild. I've never been disappointed. Something interesting or unexpected happens every day.

How wildlife viewing works

When you get to camp, you're assigned a guide. Depending on the number in your group, you may share that guide and a jeep with other guests. It's a wonderful way to meet interesting people from all over the world. I still talk to many of the travelers I've met on safaris.

On a game drive, you'll find that most animals are pretty unaffected by your presence. It's believed that animals view people in a jeep as part of a single benign being. But if you separate yourself from the jeep by getting out or standing up suddenly, you may be perceived as a threat and invite unwanted attention. Most important: Your guide will assess the animal's behavior. If it shows signs of stress, he'll keep your viewing short or move on altogether.

On a walking safari -- and not all camps offer this opportunity -- you'll typically observe animals at a greater distance. On the ground, you'll stay in single file behind your guide, who will make sure you are safe but still get an exciting view of the bush.

Unfenced vs. fenced camps

If you stay at an unfenced camp, animals will roam through at their leisure. In Botswana, a giant bull elephant strolled by 100 feet away. In Tanzania, a lion relaxing at a nearby watering hole serenaded us all night with his territorial roars. Dangerous you ask? Not really, if you obey the rules. Safety is a camp's highest priority. In general, camps establish very clear "human areas": your tent, the walkways that lead from your tent to the rest of the camp, and group meeting areas. Most animals will run away if they hear you coming, and during the day you have the ability to see what's up ahead. After sunset, a staff member will always escort you to and from your tent. Once in your tent, you are perfectly safe. If this setup makes you uncomfortable, though, there are fenced camps that keep the wildlife at bay.

Multiple camps are the ticket

On safari, it's recommended that you visit more than one camp during your stay so you can benefit from new locations and potentially different species of wildlife. I found that three nights in each camp was my magic number. I had time to unpack, develop a rapport with staff and guests, and explore a new setting.

Solo travel

If you like to travel solo, a safari is a fantastic opportunity to enjoy quality time on your own while easily meeting new people along the way. The safari vibe tends to be community driven, and I found that it fosters a high level of camaraderie.

Things to consider

  • A camp's operation is different depending on whether it is on private or government-owned property. Private camps, among other things, have the flexibility to offer nighttime game drives to view nocturnal species or go "off road," meaning that if you see an animal 300 feet to the left of the road, you can drive closer to view it. Camps on government property have restrictions, but they can be spectacular nonetheless.
  • Some camps don't provide Wi-Fi or offer the use of a computer, so if you can't stand being off the grid, you'll want to double-check ahead of time.

    If you love to pack half your closet when you travel, a safari will not be your cup of tea. Transport is often by small plane, and your luggage must follow suit. In Botswana, for example, bags are limited to 24 inches long, and they can't sport wheels. There are often strict weight limits as well. Prior to your trip, you'll receive clear guidelines. Don't fret; camps usually offer free same-day laundry services, making it easier to pack light.

    How to book your trip

    Camps are as varied as nature itself and range from rustic tents to accommodations that offer the height of luxury, with spacious rooms, claw-foot tubs, or other impressive amenities.

    To plan your perfect trip, I recommend two strategies: You can book directly through large safari companies that have properties in multiple countries, such as Wilderness Safaris or Sanctuary Retreats. They'll brief you on the best camps based on your desired country, activities, timing, and budget. You can also enlist the aid of a travel expert. I worked with Nina Wennersten of Hippo Creek Safaris; she's been a Condᅢᄅ Nast Traveler "Top Travel Specialist" for more than ten years. She planned my trip to Tanzania two years ago as well. A specialist can truly customize one's journey because she can book camps across multiple companies to guarantee the best adventure.

    Two lovebirds, only moments after they were, well, you know. A male lion will mate with a  female in heat every 20 minutes for 24-48 hours. It was like clockwork. Seriously, you can set your watch by it.     © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Two lovebirds, only moments after they were, well, you know. A male lion will mate with a female in heat every 20 minutes for 24-48 hours. It was like clockwork. Seriously, you can set your watch by it. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    The woodland kingfisher. One of the zillion gorgeous birds you'll find on safari.         © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    The woodland kingfisher. One of the zillion gorgeous birds you'll find on safari. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    One of the many reasons I love unfenced camps. I was reading on the elevated deck of my tent when this big bull sauntered by. He was heading towards three of his friends that were grazing a short distance away.     © Susan Portnoy  Mombo Camp, Botswana
    One of the many reasons I love unfenced camps. I was reading on the elevated deck of my tent when this big bull sauntered by. He was heading towards three of his friends that were grazing a short distance away. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Sunset on the Okavango Delta.         © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    Sunset on the Okavango Delta. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    I'm not a fan of hyenas. They're fascinating to watch but they're a little creepy. If they were a character in a film they'd be played by the likes of Steve Buschemi. This early morning scavenger scored with an impala leg.     © Susan Portnoy  Mombo Camp, Botswana
    I'm not a fan of hyenas. They're fascinating to watch but they're a little creepy. If they were a character in a film they'd be played by the likes of Steve Buschemi. This early morning scavenger scored with an impala leg. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Though the epitome of grace when walking or running through the bush, Giraffes can look rather goofy when eating off the ground.         © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    Though the epitome of grace when walking or running through the bush, Giraffes can look rather goofy when eating off the ground. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe Camp, Botswana
    Many people choose to wait until the winter months to go on Safari because the long grasses are dead and you can see the animals better. I suppose you can, but there is something so beautiful to me about seeing this lion nestled in the reeds at sunrise.     © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe camp, Botswana
    Many people choose to wait until the winter months to go on Safari because the long grasses are dead and you can see the animals better. I suppose you can, but there is something so beautiful to me about seeing this lion nestled in the reeds at sunrise. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe camp, Botswana
    One of my absolute favorite experiences! At Abu Camp you have the extraordinary opportunity to get close to elephants that live on the property. Orphaned or rescued, the Abu herd elephants respond to the various handlers that are always at your side, but are still undeniably wild. This shot was taken on my first night. Cathy, the herd's matriarch, carries two other guests and her handler, Big Joe. Warona, is the baby at her side. To get this elephant-eye-shot, I rode Kitimetse (a.k.a Kitti) that evening. Our walk was coming to an end and the camp staff was waiting for us with cocktails in hand. A glorious way to end the day.     © Susan Portnoy   Abu Camp, Botswana
    A gorgeous male leopard silently navigates the grass after sunset. Two minutes later it was too dark to see, and he was gone.     © Susan Portnoy   Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    A gorgeous male leopard silently navigates the grass after sunset. Two minutes later it was too dark to see, and he was gone. © Susan Portnoy Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    I missed the joke, but happy I didn't miss the shot.         © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe camp, Botswana
    I missed the joke, but happy I didn't miss the shot. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe camp, Botswana
    A highly agitated elephant who, along with her herd, was set off by a pack of wild dogs that rested on the opposite side of our jeep. The ele was grumbling and trumpeting along with her friends and trying to figure out what the heck we were doing there. To get a sense of how close she came, the thin, out of focus vertical line in the foreground is the jeep's antennae. I was simultaneously thrilled and nervous. Our guide was totally relaxed. He whispered to us that anger was directed towards the dogs, not us. We stayed quiet and calm and after they'd put on the show, they left in a huff, knocking the trees down as they went.     © Susan Portnoy  Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    Two wild dogs (an endangered species) creep up on a zebra. These dogs were part of the pack that was freaking out the elephants in the previous slide.       © Susan Portnoy   Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    Two wild dogs (an endangered species) creep up on a zebra. These dogs were part of the pack that was freaking out the elephants in the previous slide. © Susan Portnoy Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    A morning stroll for this pride of lions and a wonderful sighting for us and some of the other guests in camp.       © Susan Portnoy  Chitabe camp, Botswana
    A morning stroll for this pride of lions and a wonderful sighting for us and some of the other guests in camp. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe camp, Botswana
    My tent at Chitabe. Not bad eh?
    My tent at Chitabe. Not bad eh?
    Two adorable cubs, one much younger than the other, play at sunrise on the landing strip near camp. The smaller cub was quite mischievous. He/she (I'm really not sure), finished playing with his/her friend in the photo and then immediately jumped on a sibling nearby.     © Susan Portnoy   Chitabe Camp
    Two adorable cubs, one much younger than the other, play at sunrise on the landing strip near camp. The smaller cub was quite mischievous. He/she (I'm really not sure), finished playing with his/her friend in the photo and then immediately jumped on a sibling nearby. © Susan Portnoy Chitabe Camp
    Impalas are everywhere in Botswana, or at least everywhere I went. Their delicate frames and big doe eyes were always a welcome site.         © Susan Portnoy   Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    Impalas are everywhere in Botswana, or at least everywhere I went. Their delicate frames and big doe eyes were always a welcome site. © Susan Portnoy Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    My room at Vurumba Plains. It's bigger than my apartment in New York. Way bigger.     © Susan Portnoy
    My room at Vurumba Plains. It's bigger than my apartment in New York. Way bigger. © Susan Portnoy
    The picturesque Okavango Delta. The wake in the water (near the bottom of the screen) was created by our jeep, which often seemed to be part boat too.    © Susan Portnoy   Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    The picturesque Okavango Delta. The wake in the water (near the bottom of the screen) was created by our jeep, which often seemed to be part boat too. © Susan Portnoy Vurumba Plains, Botswana
    Though they look vicious, these jackals are merely playing. I think they're kinda cute.       © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Though they look vicious, these jackals are merely playing. I think they're kinda cute. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Sherini, from the Abu herd. Guests walk between Sherini and Cathy, who leads the herd, on all walks. Isn't she just beautiful?     © Susan Portnoy   Abu Camp, Botswana
    Sherini, from the Abu herd. Guests walk between Sherini and Cathy, who leads the herd, on all walks. Isn't she just beautiful? © Susan Portnoy Abu Camp, Botswana
    Outside a hyenas den, cubs play as they wait for the grown ups to return. I mentioned in an earlier slide that I'm not a fan of hyenas. I should amend that. I am not a fan of adult hyenas.   These little darlings, I think are adorable.     © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Outside a hyenas den, cubs play as they wait for the grown ups to return. I mentioned in an earlier slide that I'm not a fan of hyenas. I should amend that. I am not a fan of adult hyenas. These little darlings, I think are adorable. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    A male leopard snoozes in a tree after dining on an impala whose carcass is out of the shot to the right. On the ground, a female leopard was a bit miffed because the impala had been hers before the male showed up and took it.     © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    A male leopard snoozes in a tree after dining on an impala whose carcass is out of the shot to the right. On the ground, a female leopard was a bit miffed because the impala had been hers before the male showed up and took it. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Some angry angry hippos that weren't particularly pleased we were driving near their watering hole. They are big animals and not too friendly. Our guide assured us that though they were perturbed, hippos won't leave the safety of the water to pummel us in the jeep.     © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Some angry angry hippos that weren't particularly pleased we were driving near their watering hole. They are big animals and not too friendly. Our guide assured us that though they were perturbed, hippos won't leave the safety of the water to pummel us in the jeep. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Three hot young males taking relaxing before the hunt.       © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    Three hot young males taking relaxing before the hunt. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana
    "Oof! Momma, you gotta tell me when you're gonna stop!"   Just few of the 45+ herd that was my last sighting before I left Botswana.       © Susan Portnoy   Mombo Camp, Botswana
    "Oof! Momma, you gotta tell me when you're gonna stop!" Just few of the 45+ herd that was my last sighting before I left Botswana. © Susan Portnoy Mombo Camp, Botswana