I Went to Food Heaven and Ate Cheese for Every Meal in Parma, Italy
So, I love cheese. It's kind of my thing. In my fridge right now, there are no less than five different types of cheese…and TBH, not much else. At a job I had a few years back, my boss brought me instead of cake for my birthday. So of course, I immediately said sí to an invitation to visit Parma, Italy to learn all about how Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is actually made.
Located about an hour and a half by car or train from Milan, Parma is part of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, which, if you haven’t heard, is basically a delicious destination. It’s the birthplace of many of Italy’s best-known foods, from balsamic vinegar to mortadella. Each city specializes in something different, and Parma is known for Parma ham, Lambrusco wine, and especially Parmigiano Reggiano.
You’ll notice that I said Parmigiano Reggiano, not parmesan, here. The two terms are not synonymous. While you might picture anything from a hard, aged wheel to the powdery white canned stuff when you hear the word “parmesan,” Parmigiano Reggiano is made following a very specific, centuries-old process that takes at least a year, and it can only be made in Parma and the surrounding region. You know how you can only call sparkling wine “champagne” if it’s made in the Champagne region of France? It’s like that, but for cheese. The Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium inspects every single wheel and stamps it with an official seal to make sure it meets quality standards before it can be sold. They even check for counterfeits. This is serious stuff, people!
Obviously, I advise you to eat as many meals as you possibly can when you visit Parma, but food isn’t the only appeal. With about 175,000 residents, Parma is considerably smaller than Italian tourism staples like Rome or Florence. It's not as hectic (and it probably hasn't hit your IG feed yet), but it’s still a city with tons of art, history, and picturesque streets. Andiamo!
Full disclosure: The writer received comped travel, hotel accommodations, meals, and experiences in order to write this story.
STAY
• Grand Hotel de la Ville: This hotel is super centrally located, with delish cafes and gelaterias just steps away. It’s also a short walk from tons of historic sites like the Cattedrale di Parma and the Teatro Regio. Request a cappuccino at breakfast before you head out for the day and thank me later.
PLAY
• Visit a dairy: Seeing how Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is made is a truly amazing—my whole group gasped in awe when we saw the “real cathedral of Parma,” a gigantic room where hundreds of wheels are aged. Cheesemakers use only three ingredients—milk, salt, and rennet—to create these beauts, and the process hasn't changed much in the past thousand years, NBD. Of course, you can’t miss a cheese tasting, during which you'll learn to tell the difference between 12-month, 18-month, and 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano. The dairy I visited was called Caseificio San Bernardino and it had an adorable dog named Bruno, but check out the Parmigiano Reggiano website for tour availability at dairies around the region.
• See vineyards and sip Lambrusco at Monte delle Vigne winery: Parma is also known for Lambrusco wine, a bubbly red (yep, bubbly and red—the best of both worlds). Take time to view the scenic vineyards, look into the cellars, and of course, sip some of the good stuff.
• Stroll down Borgo Tomassini. This cobblestoned alley goes past fashionable boutiques and cute restaurants, and it’s covered with an installation of mirrors. Schedule some time to go shopping, or just wander around the city and snack while you log some steps.
EAT
• Oenopolium: This cute restaurant is perfect for aperitivo. People-watch as you sip some Lambrusco or an Aperol spritz.
• Parma Rotta: I tried three kinds of pasta here and TBH, I'm still thinking about this meal.
• Ruliano Perex Suctum: Famous for its Parma ham, this restaurant also has amazing desserts.
• Osteria dei Servi: Clear your evening for a multi-course meal at Osteria dei Servei. Have a main *and* a pasta—trust that you’re going to want both.
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