What makes aged cheese different? Expert cheesemakers explain the process for adding 'flavor, texture and aroma.'

Cheese is great mixed into salads, served on top of crackers and added to charcuterie boards, but understanding the difference between various types of cheeses — especially aged and non-aged cheese — can be daunting. What's the difference between aged and non-aged cheese? And why does it matter?

How long a cheese has been aged, the process used and where the aging took place are all important factors in how an aged cheese tastes once it hits your tongue.

What is aged cheese?

The simple answer to what makes a cheese aged is time.

According to Samuel Rheaume, who works making cheese at Jasper Hill Farm, aging cheese is more complex than just letting it sit around for a while. "The process of ripening cheese is known as affinage," he explains. "This process isn't simply aging, but an active process that guides a cheese along a path towards an ideal expression of flavor, texture and aroma."

Almost all cheeses are aged for some period. "Young" aged cheeses may be aged only two to four months, while some cheeses are aged up to 20 years. Even "fresh" cheeses, like mozzarella, go through a brief aging period to cultivate the perfect flavor, Rheaume explains, so it's better to focus on how long a cheese has been aged and how it has been aged rather than just asking if a cheese has been aged or not.

How does cheese change when it's aged?

During the aging period, there are three changes that take place to create a good cheese, says Shannon Berry, a cheese specialist at Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin. "What was once milky, mild and smooth becomes firm, caramelized and nutty," Berry explains. "A young cheddar and an aged cheddar may as well be two completely different cheeses."

First, moisture evaporates, changing the texture of the cheese. The longer cheese is aged, the harder it will become. A young gouda aged for just a few months will still be creamy, for example, while gouda that's been aged for two years will be harder.

Second, the flavor of the cheese intensifies over time. The younger gouda will have a milder, milky taste, where the gouda that's been aged for two years will have a more distinct, sharper flavor.

Third, during the aging process crystals form, which change the taste and texture of a cheese even more. These crystals are amino acids that develop as the protein in the cheese breaks down. The young gouda may not have any crystals, but the 2-year-old gouda will be filled with them. Crystals are a hallmark of a well-aged cheese.

Location matters

Aging cheese is a fine-tuned process that takes place in a cave or cellar. "The microflora from the cave where the cheese is being aged impacts how the aged cheese will ultimately taste," explains Berry. That means the same cheese aged in a cave in Wisconsin will have a different flavor if aged in a cave in Vermont. That's one reason some have a strong preference for cheese from a specific place.

Rheaume explains that caves are the ideal location for aging cheese because they have a consistent temperature and are dark and humid. Those factors combine to create the ideal environment for slow, controlled maturation. At Jasper Hill, Rheaume oversees seven different underground cellars, each dedicated to different types of cheeses.

How is cheese aged?

Rheaume says aging cheese is an active process: The term "aging" sounds misleading because it implies a passive approach.

During the aging process, cheese may be wrapped to prevent a rind from forming. What's used to wrap the cheese is another factor that will impact its final taste and texture. Common wraps include wax, plastic and gauze bandages. Gouda is wrapped in wax and Swiss cheese is wrapped in plastic, each to achieve a different texture and taste profile.

Cheese that develops a rind is left unwrapped. Some cheeses, like Brie, develop a rind when edible mold is introduced to the cheese. Cheeses like Stilton develop a rind when left to their own devices. Others, like Taleggio, develop a rind when washed in brine or alcohol. "A rind is introduced to keep moisture in the cheese and oxygen out of the cheese," says Berry. "Each specific type of rind is used for a specific reason during the make process, so different styles of cheese will have different styles of rinds."

Cheesemakers also add "good" bacteria to cheese while it's aging. The bacterium eats the lactic acid in cheese and is an important factor in how aged tastes when it hits the shelves.

Rheaume describes those engaged in the aging process as "sensory professionals…constantly tasting cheese to make judgments about how to continue to care for the cheese."

Why doesn't aged cheese spoil?

The idea of cheese sitting around in a cave covered with bacteria could be enough to turn anyone off to eating aged cheese forever. However, according to Berry it's a very safe process. "There are a lot of different control factors," she explains, adding, "the more I learn about cheese, the less I worry."

Rheaume agrees. "It all comes down to precise environmental control," he says.

To start, says Berry, most cheese in the U.S. is made with pasteurized milk. Pasteurization kills harmful bacteria, which greatly reduces the chances of getting sick from aged cheese. When cheesemakers re-introduce safe, flavor-producing bacteria back into the process, it's controlled in a sterile environment. The good bacteria reproduce quickly, leaving no room for harmful bacteria to colonize. While raw milk cheese can be made in the U.S., it's required to be aged for at least 60 days to ensure it's colonized with good bacteria and safe to eat. Cheesemakers are also required to regularly send samples to labs to be tested for safety.

Eating aged cheese "is much less risky than eating raw oysters," says Berry, adding she thinks aged cheese is safer than sunny-side-up eggs with raw yokes or medium-rare hamburgers.

What pairs well with aged cheese?

When figuring out what to pair with aged cheeses, consider whether you'd like to emphasize sweet or savory flavors. Since many aged cheeses have sweet notes, Berry recommends pairing them with fruit "to draw out those subtle sweet undertones."

She also like pairing cheeses with olives and recommends cranberry chutney for a perfect sweet and savory blend. Another great pairing option are cornichons — tiny French pickles. "They are both adorably small and deliciously tart while adding in some much-needed acidity to cut the richness," explains Berry.

And to drink? "Red wine can complement the stronger, aged cheeses," explains Berry. Rheaume likes port wines, which pair well with blue cheese and other aged cheeses with strong flavors.

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