Where to find James Beard Foundation nominated chefs in eastern Iowa
In the world of chefs and restaurants, the greatest recognition from peers comes from the James Beard Foundation, the New York-based organization that "celebrates and supports the people behind America’s food culture." For more than 30 years, the nonprofit has honored chefs and restaurants in the United States.
Since the awards started in 1991, the so-called “Oscars of the food world,” have honored chefs who have gone on to become household names: Rick Bayless, Emeril Lagasse, Wolfgang Puck, Nancy Silverton. In Iowa, about 18 chefs have had their names called for the semifinalist list, with about six coming from eastern Iowa.
What's called the long list of semifinalists comes out in January, nominated by fans, regional panelists and other chefs. The organization divides the country into 12 regions, with Iowa in the Midwest competing against chefs in Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota, North Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas and Missouri. The JBF also has awards for Outstanding Restaurateur, Outstanding Pastry Chef, and the like.
About 20 restaurants and chefs are named semifinalists in each category, which are pared down to five finalists in March. From there, a winner is named, this year in June in Chicago.
This year, for example, Samuel Charles of Rodina in Cedar Rapids made the semifinalist list. For the first time, a chef from Nebraska (David Utterback, Yoshitomo, Omaha, Nebraska) and South Dakota (Sanaa Abourezk, Sanaa’s Gourmet Mediterranean, Sioux Falls, South Dakota) were named finalists in the category.
More: James Beard Foundation announced chef, restaurant finalists for 2023. How did Iowa's chef do?
Never since the first round of James Beard nominees has a chef or restaurant in Iowa moved along further than the semifinalist stage. Nevertheless, it's still an enormous honor for chefs to be recognized by the organization. Food-loving travelers use the list to plan dining itineraries when they cross the state. Journalists and politicians will add these names to their lists during caucus season. And other chefs will seek out these places to learn what they are doing in their kitchens.
Here's a look at the chefs and restaurants that have earned nominations from the James Beard Foundation across Iowa. Bon appétit.
Samuel Charles
The latest nominee from Iowa is Samuel Charles, the chef behind Rodina in Cedar Rapids. Charles earned a 2023 nomination for Best Chef Midwest for his Midwestern menu. Try a 12-ounce ribeye, gnocchi with braised mushroom ragu, or fettuccine with lamb and pork 'nduja sausage, but keep in mind that Charles serves seasonal dishes. Try the brunch on Sundays with salmon toast , a scallop scramble or a brunch board with smoked salmon, prosciutto, brie, and Local Crumb toast for two.
Location: 1507 C Street S.W., Cedar Rapids
Contact: 319-200-2515 or rodinaiowa.com
Hours: Open Monday, Thursday and Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9:30 p.m.; and Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
More: How Rodina's focus on Midwestern foods made this Iowa chef a James Beard semifinalist
Aaron Hall
Mount Vernon-based baker Aaron Hall earned a semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Baker in 2022. His bakery, The Local Crumb, specializes in sourdough breads and only takes orders online. Restaurants in Cedar Rapids and Des Moines use his breads.
More: Aaron Hall's bakery is in a former classroom in Iowa. The James Beard Foundation took notice.
Kevin Scharpf
It seems like everyone knew Kevin Scharpf’s name after he appeared on Season 16 of “Top Chef.” In 2022, the James Beard Foundation recognized him with a Best Chef Midwest nomination for his Dubuque treasure Brazen Open Kitchen. Scharpf creates seasonal dishes such as a 20-ounce rib-eye steak, shrimp and grits, and duck breast a l'orange. The restaurant also has Brazen Reserve, a private dining space for an interactive multi-course tasting menu or a shared family-style dinner.
Location: 955 Washington St. Suite 101, Dubuque
Contact: 563-587-8899 or brazenopenkitchen.com
Hours: Open Tuesday through Saturday from 4:30 to 9 p.m.
More: Iowa chef Kevin Scharpf often asks recruits about James Beard Awards. Now, he is nominated for one.
Andy Schumacher
Back in 2015, Andy Schumacher at Cobble Hill Eatery & Dispensary in Cedar Rapids caught the eyes of the James Beard Foundation judges with a Best Chef Midwest nod. Request the chef’s table overlooking the kitchen and order braised angus short ribs with buttered spätzle, hand-rolled linguini with Canadian lobster, or herb-roasted cauliflower with tomato braised legumes. Keep in mind this menu changes with the seasons at this downtown restaurant named for a neighborhood in Brooklyn.
Location: 219 Second St. SE, Cedar Rapids
Contact: 319-366-3177 or cobblehillrestaurant.com
Hours: Open from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Matt Steigerwald
The James Beard Foundation recognized Matt Steigerwald of Lincoln Café in Mount Vernon with a Best Chef Midwest nomination three times — in 2008, 2011 and 2015. The café became Lincoln Winebar and then Steigerwald sold it in 2016 to Jesse Sauerbrie. Lincoln specializes in Neapolitan-style pizzas using local ingredients.
Steigerwald is now the culinary director at Wilson’s Farm and chef at Wilson’s Cider House in Iowa City. Wilson’s plans to open in Cumming, southwest of Des Moines, with a second orchard and a restaurant and event center in the state's first agrihood, a 900-acre development called Middlebrook. The $800 million mixed residential, retail and commercial project is centered on farming, with the orchard joining a giant community garden. Until it opens in 2023, order braised beef short ribs with wild mushroom bread pudding, Atlantic fluke, and Thai grilled quail with pork stuffing. Head here for brunch on Saturday and Sunday for roasted mushrooms and grits, a Belgian waffle or biscuits and gravy.
Location: Lincoln Winebar, 125 First St. W., Mount Vernon
Contact: 319-895-9463 or foodisimportant.com
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday from 4 to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9 p.m.
Location: Wilson’s Cider House, 4823 Dingleberry Road NE, Iowa City
Contact: 319-643-4159 or wilsonsorchard.com
Hours: Open Wednesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
America’s Classics
The James Beard Foundation honors locally owned restaurants that have a timeless feel to them and serve food that reflects the community. In Iowa, three restaurants earned the America's Classics Award. Consider these the timeless classics of Iowa.
Archie’s Waeside
Head up to Le Mars for Archie’s Waeside, opened in 1949 by the late Archie Jackson, who came to America to escape Russia during the Bolshevik Revolution. Once in America, he worked at a packing house, first in Sioux City and later Los Angeles, according to the restaurant’s website. He learned how to cut and dry-age the beef that he used when he opened Archie’s Waeside.
Now his grandson, Robert Rand, and granddaughter, Lorrie Luense, run the restaurant that features 10 cuts of dry-aged beef including the 16- to 18-ounce Benny Weiker as well as steak and seafood options with lobster or shrimp. Each dish comes with a tossed salad and a relish tray.
Archie’s Waeside won its America’s Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2015.
Location: 224 Fourth Ave. NE, Le Mars
Contact: 712-546-7011 or archieswaeside.com
Hours: Open Wednesday and Thursday from 5 to 8:15 p.m., Friday from 5 to 9:15 p.m., and Saturday from 4:30 to 9:15 p.m.
Breitbach’s Country Dining
On the other side of the state sits Breitbach’s Country Dining, touted as the oldest bar and restaurant in Iowa. It opened in 1852 after President Millard Fillmore issued a federal permit, and Jacob Breitbach took over in 1862, marking the beginning of six generations running the restaurant. A Christmas Eve fire in 2007 burned the original building for Breitbach’s Country Dining, but Mike Breitbach and the Balltown community rallied to rebuild in 69 days. Six months later and the restaurant burned to the ground again.
Diners love this restaurant for homemade pies by the slice, broasted chicken and prime rib on Saturday nights. Diners can also order a buffet, and everyone can make their own salad creation there.
The James Beard Foundation honored the restaurant with an America’s Classic Award in 2009.
Location: 563 Balltown Road, Balltown
Contact: 563-552-2220 or breitbachscountrydining.com
Hours: Open Thursday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Lagomarcino’s
Angelo Lagomarcino immigrated to the United States from northern Italy and decided to strike out on his own in 1908 when he opened his confectionary shop in Moline, Illinois, selling ice cream treats such as malted milks, ice cream sodas and hot fudge sundaes that use the shop’s own vanilla ice cream and a pitcher of hot fudge on the side. The restaurant sold sandwiches, salads, homemade pie, and fountain drinks such as the Green River, a lime thirst quencher named after the Chicago River, and the Lago, a fruit flavored soda pop concocted by Charlie Lagomarcino in the 1930s. The store also sells candies — pecan dainties, mints, truffles, sea salt caramels and more. Four generations have run the business since its opening.
Lagomarcino’s opened a second location in The Village of East Davenport in 1997. Lagomarcino’s won its America’s Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2006.
Locations: 1422 Fifth Ave., Moline, Illinois; 309-764-1814
2132 E. 11th St., Davenport; 563-324-6137
Contact: lagomarcinos.com
Hours: Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Susan Stapleton is the entertainment editor at The Des Moines Register. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram, or drop her a line at sstapleton@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Des Moines Register: Where to find the best chefs, restaurants in Cedar Rapids, Iowa City
