'Where’s Kenzo?': Acclaimed sushi chef Kenzo Phan now 'guest chef' at Casta Diva

Kenzo Phan is among the best-known sushi chefs on the ever-evolving restaurant scene, due to both his ownership/partnerships and reputation for crafting exceptional sushi, often serving his regular customers a specialty dish without their asking, a wow factor diners love.

Known simply by his first name, Kenzo is a chef who has a reputation as an innovator and perfectionist. And, he gets around.

He has gone to help open multiple locations across the city, including the former Zipango on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester. In 2006, he opened Haiku, a sushi bar and fusion restaurant on Park Avenue in Worcester, with George Sakhat of El Basha restaurant fame. He was sushi chef at Willy’s Steakhouse Grill & Sushi Bar in Shrewsbury for more than 15 years. He also has worked outside the city and state.

The question, “Where’s Kenzo?” strikes a chord with a lot of people. In June, he became “guest chef” at Casta Diva Restaurant, 35 Solomon Pond Road, Northborough. He and chef/owner Aurelio Metohu are friends, sharing a love for “all things food.” Metohu bought the Northborough property and opened his restaurant in the vacant Guiseppe’s Grill in 2018. He has more than 20 years in the industry and has worked with chefs in Albania (original home), Germany and Italy. He previously owned and operated Caffe Espresso Trattoria on Chandler Street in Worcester, first purchasing the business when it was located on Wall Street in Worcester. Casta Diva specializes in authentic Italian cuisine, accommodating more than 200 in private rooms and dining areas.

Kenzo occupies his own space in Casta Diva’s large kitchen that he described as “spotless, up-to-date and beautiful.” “I’ve worked in a lot of kitchens and Casta Diva’s is one of the best facilities around,” he said. Kenzo’s wife assists him in the kitchen.

Metohu said he and Kenzo originally planned for a sushi counter in a corner on the restaurant’s outdoor deck that overlooks Solomon Pond. “The plan worked until we started getting more and more rainy days,” said Metohu. ‘It was a hassle to break down, going in and out, so we gave up on the idea.”

Kenzo’s one page-menu, Chef Kenzo’s Specials, is heavily chef driven, with many fan favorites. It accompanies Casta Diva’s food and beverage menus given to guests.

About Chef Kenzo’s Specials at Casta Diva: You’ll find Sushi Bar, Appetizers, Salads; Nigiri Sushi & Sashimi and a Set Menu featuring three of a kind sushi; Chirashi (assorted fresh fish over a bed of seasoned sushi rice); Designer Rolls; the Lobster Bomb; Seared Ahi Tuna; Maguro Tuna Sashimi Platter; Duo Nigiri Set; Sashimi Deluxe; Dynamite Shrimp Tempura Maki: Google Maki (Big in size, Big in surprise); Tuna & Salmon Fans; Spider Maki; Red Dragon Maki; Crunchy Lobster Maki. Personal Note: A fan favorite at Casta Diva is Kenzo’s Lobster Bomb, with spicy lobster meat wrapped in a shaved avocado and topped with lobster, served with a “special Kenzo sauce” and field greens. It’s a showy piece and a personal favorite of Casta Diva’s owner Metohu. It’s love at first bite, it’s delicious. Nutty Kenzo is another popular item, with tuna, salmon, Hamachi, avocado, cilantro, jalapeno, lime juice, granola and toasted almonds. And, Kenzo has a little fun with Italian Chow Mein, a special he sometimes teases. The dish combines Italian ingredients with tuna and udon noodles.

Most days, you’ll find Kenzo in the Northborough dining room, tray in hand, greeting and chatting with guests. “So many people follow me from one place to another,” he said. “Sometimes I can’t believe it myself. They must really like me,” he grinned. “I love talking to people about what I do, and I say, ‘Let Kenzo make it happen.’”

The chef has a loyal following for a reason. He isn’t afraid of experimentation. Not only with sushi, but also Asian-inspired dishes that feature a bit of French influence. Creating sushi is not just a job, but his passion.

Born in Vietnam (Chu Lai), Kenzo lived there through the war and escaped the country by boat when he was 14. He spent several years in a refugee camp in Thailand before joining a sibling in Montreal. He said a Canadian couple “adopted” him. He was educated in Canada, where he also worked for the renowned Japanese restaurant Benihana and several French restaurants and bistros. He received classical French chef training and speaks fluent French. He left Canada to work at Boston Benihana, he said, and then relocated to Central Massachusetts. Locally, he is often credited as an “early developer” of East/West fusion cooking. Working in different places throughout his career he became skilled in international food, he said.

Hardship and hard work have been his path to success. “In this business, you have to put in the time, be honest with people, be generous and go the extra mile,” said Kenzo. “You need to be confident. You don’t want to be shady. No shady land.”  When asked about his age, he flashed a smile and said, “Age is just a number.”

He keeps a brief case with him, filled with menus concepts he has developed and dozens of business cards, all individually filed, with the names of people and chefs he has known. There’s a creative process behind each of his menus and unforgettable food memories, he said.

Casta Diva is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; Closed Monday and Tuesday. The menu, which changes seasonally, offers not only classic Italian dishes, but also specialty cocktails, etc. Reservations are recommended. Take-out, no delivery. For more information about the restaurant, menus and events, visit https://castadivarestaurant.com; Telephone (508) 466-2080. Note: Attached to Casta Diva is a café, with its own entrance and dining space separate of the restaurant. The café currently is for lease. Call the restaurant for more information.

Probably the biggest Kenzo news is that he’s negotiating a partnership with the owner of a Westboro restaurant. There will be an announcement soon, he said. The chef also plans a “mini vacation” after Labor Day.  “Tell everyone I’m going fishing. I’ll only be gone a few days. Then, I’ll be back,” he said.

At a recent farm-to-table dinner, people seated next to me asked about Kenzo. “We’ve heard so much about him. Who is this guy?”

How much time do you have?

If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com. 

This article originally appeared on Telegram & Gazette: Table Hoppin': Sushi chef Kenzo Phan now at Casta Diva Restaurant