Where the locals say to eat and drink in Waco

WACO — Within its two combined city blocks, Magnolia Market at the Silos, a lifestyle amusement park in downtown Waco, offers the fare of perhaps a dozen food trucks as well as Magnolia Table, Silo Bakery, Magnolia Press Coffee Co. and other alluring stops.

On an early September afternoon, however, all these purveyors of food and drink were packed with people.

Meanwhile, all around downtown — and nearby East Waco — my road-trip buddy and I discovered notable forms of edibles and potables without lines. Waiters, clerks and baristas chimed in with their favorites, which we hope to visit next time Waco calls.

1. 1424 Bistro

Located just outside downtown, this unpretentious café serves excellent Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. At dusk, sit on the patio for fresh salads and seafood, rendered with tender care. Say yes to dessert. (1424 Washington Ave.; 1424bistro.com)

2. Hecho en Waco

Locals are divided on the point: Is Hecho en Waco primarily interior Mexican or Tex-Mex? A good chunk of the menu falls soundly on the Tex-Mex side, which could not be more delightful. Strolling distance from Magnolia Market, it anchors what looks like a former warehouse, smartly repurposed. (300 S. South St. hechoenwaco.com)

3. Cajun Craft

Boy, did we luck out with this blue-collar counter café with two small dining rooms and two patio areas. The brainchild of Kim Bui, this joint serves spice-perfect étouffées and other Cajun and Creole dishes with gusto from a former gas station that also once served as a neighborhood chicken joint. (601 S 11th St. cajuncraftwaco.com)

4. Eastside Revival Eatery

Elm Avenue was — and in some senses still is — the main commercial and cultural stem of East Waco, a historically African American district on the opposite side of the Brazos River from downtown Waco. A few years ago, some enterprising young people renovated a community church into this biblically themed sandwich shop, which also offers Texas-sourced burgers and salads. (704 Elm Ave. revivaleastsideeatery.com)

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5. Truelove Bar

On an earlier Think Texas road trip to San Angelo, we fell in love with House of Fifi Dubois, a club that seemed to appeal across most cultural divides. In Waco, it was Truelove Bar. We returned twice to its big open main saloon, smaller cocktail lounge and copious back patio. The crowd could not be more mixed and unruffled. Some pub grub available. (414 Franklin Ave.; 254-855-7709)

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6. Stone Hearth Indian Cafe

This counter eatery across from the historic Alico Building is a fast-casual spot, but don't be fooled. The food is the real deal. I ordered a Bangalore dish with rice, potatoes and lamb — medium heat — and could not have been more pleased if it was served in the best subcontinental restaurant in the state. (506 Austin Ave.; facebook.com/stonehearthindiancafe)

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7. Café Cappuccino

An established Waco success story with two outlets, Café Cappuccino is both stylish and a bit retro. Go early for the hearty breakfast fare, but also to mingle with the cool kids of Waco's downtown scene. (100 N. Sixth St.; www.cafecappuccino.com)

8. The Olive Branch

The open bricks, dark woodwork and high ceilings of this bistro in the River Square Center recall a bit of New Orleans, as does the exceptionally warm service and the hearty helpings of comfort food. Choose the big biscuit at breakfast. (215 S Second St.; olivebranchwaco.com)

9. Balcones Distilling

This hulking distillery and brewery not far from Magnolia Market started in a welding shop under a bridge. Now it is housed in a multi-story brick building near the railroad tracks. Its tasting room is cozy and welcoming, and the staff proves quite knowledgeable. Try the smoky beer. (225 S. 11th St.; balconesdistilling.com)

10. For future trips

Locals bragged about these Waco spots:

  • Union Hall: Like Austin's Fareground, a curated collection of eateries under one roof. (720 Franklin Ave.; unionhallwaco.com)

  • Guess Family Barbecue: Every Texas community has a preferred barbecue joint; this appears to be one of Waco's favorites. (2803 Franklin Ave. guessfamilybbq.com)

  • Milo All Day: Southern inspired food from local sources, a hit in this region. (1020 Franklin Ave.; milowaco.com)

  • Alpha Omega Grill and Bakery: Eastern Mediterranean delights. (929 Franklin Ave.; alphaomegawaco.com)

  • Café Homestead: Locally sourced American cuisine in a rustic setting. (608 Dry Creek Road.; cafehomestead.com)

  • Kitok Restaurant: Opened in 1975, a historic staple for Waco lovers of Korean fare. (1815 N. 18th St.; 254-754-1801)

  • George's Restaurant: Fans endorse the burgers, onion rings and chicken fried steak. (1925 Speight Ave.; georgesrestaurant.com)

Michael Barnes writes about the people, places, culture and history of Austin and Texas. He can be reached at mbarnes@statesman.com. Sign up for the free weekly Think, Texas digital newsletter at statesman.com/newsletters.

This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: Beyond Magnolia Center, where to eat and drink today in Waco