Wondering how to dress for Thurby? Try these tips for hats, outfits and colors

Kirby Adams, Louisville Courier Journal
·7 min read

This year — we are super excited for Thurby.

Sure, the internationally-known Kentucky Derby on May 7 is the most famous day of horseracing at the historic Churchill Downs Racetrack. But if you are a local, you know Thursday of Kentucky Derby Week, affectionally referred to as Thurby, is Kentucky's day at the races. This year it falls on May 5.

It may not have the global draw of Kentucky Derby Day but locals like it that way. This is the day when Kentuckians take extra pride in what makes their home state special the other 364 days of the year — Kentucky bourbon, horse racing, regional food, and friends.

And yes, we celebrate it all with grand and beautiful track-side style.

We're talking gorgeous hats and fascinators, vivid eye-catching colors and prints and dapper suits, bow ties and pocket squares — and we're just getting started.

"Think about a party that includes all your best friends," said fashion expert Jo Ross. "Rather than a party where you only know a few people, Thurby is the day at Churchill Downs when you run into everyone you know and they all look amazing and are having a wonderful time."

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Dusky pink suit by Ted Baker ($798). Grey fedora by Bailey ($85). All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022
Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Dusky pink suit by Ted Baker ($798). Grey fedora by Bailey ($85). All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

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Maybe that's because on Thurby the locals just "get it." We know what to wear and what to leave in the closet. People feel passionate about the history and meaning behind the food and drink we consume. And most, but not all, have a pretty solid idea of how to bet on the ponies.

Churchill Downs gets it, too, and for 2022, has opened the infield for Thurby for the first time. The historic racetrack has also added an infield concert for the day of racing featuring Nathaniel Rateliff and the Nightsweats.

So, what will you wear to Kentucky's day at the races? Ross has been dressing women and men for Kentucky Derby week for decades. She's also a regular at New York Fashion Week. We caught up with the fashion expert back home in the Bluegrass State for advice on which trends will make their way to the track at this year's Thurby.

P.S. this is also solid fashion advice for the Kentucky Oaks and Kentucky Derby, too.

Do people wear hats to Thurby?

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. For 2022, spring fashion is all in the details. All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022
Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. For 2022, spring fashion is all in the details. All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

Now don't panic, we're not saying ditch the trackside staple. You definitely should wear something spectacular on your head. After all, if you live in Kentucky, you don't need to be reminded that everyone, women and men will be wearing a show-stopping topper to the races at Churchill Downs.

At issue is the size of your hat.

"There is a very good reason fascinators have become so popular," Ross gently reminds us. "As gorgeous as a large brim hat may be, hats that have their own zip code can be a challenge that you'll wrestle with the entire day."

In the practicality department, an enormous hat is similar to wearing a ballgown.

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"It's beautiful to look at but difficult to manage and maneuver in a crowd," Ross told the Courier Journal. "Instead, enjoy your day in the comfort of a smaller hat, a fascinator, or a headpiece that is attached to a headband or affixed to the head with a comb."

So do stick with tradition and wear a stunning headpiece. Just be certain it's something you'll be comfortable in for the many hours you'll be celebrating the day with friends.

Pick bold, spring color for your Kentucky Derby outfit

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Bright and bold with unexpected detailing like ruffles, smocking, florals and accessories for both women and men, making dressing for Kentucky's day at the track, which we call 'Thurby,' tons of fun. All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022
Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Bright and bold with unexpected detailing like ruffles, smocking, florals and accessories for both women and men, making dressing for Kentucky's day at the track, which we call 'Thurby,' tons of fun. All clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

After two years of the COVID-19 pandemic, this is not the year to attend the races as a shrinking violet. Trending hues from the fashion runway will make their way to the race track including lime green, saturated yellow, classic Kelly green, tomato soup red, and sunset orange.

"I have never seen so many bright, bold and colorful fun things," Ross said. "Color is one of the most exciting aspects of fashion this spring."

And while they aren't considered bold colors, springtime in Kentucky is always a time for pastels. For 2022, the Pantone pastels are modern and sophisticated with names like Gossamer, a powdery pink, Spun Sugar and Glacier Lake blue, Basil green and more.

The color trends hold true for men's fashion, too. But if you think you can't do bright, think all white. Head-to-toe white with exciting splashes of color in your accessories, whether a patterned shirt or tie is the fresh trend for 2022. And for women, if you dress in head-to-toe white, punch up the excitement with brilliant accents in your jewelry, hat, accessories, or even your shoes.

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Hemlines will be long (and short!) at the Kentucky Derby

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. The long and the short of it, hemlines are everywhere this season. LEFT: Micro mini romper by Lily Pulitzer romper ($218). CENTER: Knee-length silk sheath by Trina Turk ($258). RIGHT: Long and flowy floral dress by Joseph Ribkoff ($298). All clothing is available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

The hemline is a subtle tell that influences fashion in any season. If you opt for this season's popular micro-mini, let's pray for warm temperatures on Thurby.

At the opposite end of this year's fashion yardstick are very long skirts and dresses with flowy ruffles and voluminous fabric. Long may be the way to go if the weather isn't perfect, which is always a chance in Kentucky in May.

Speaking of volume, are you ready for the return of the bubble hem? Think 1980s excess in mini-party dresses and skirts. The high-low hemline, another blast from the past (high in the front and lower in the back) is also making a comeback.

Add pops of decorative detail to your Kentucky Derby outfit

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Flower appliqued day coat by Samuel Dong ($378). Clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022
Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Flower appliqued day coat by Samuel Dong ($378). Clothing and accessories are available at Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

The other must-know trend, besides dynamic color, is in the details.

"There is more detail going on with clothes than we have seen in a long while," Ross said. "Designers have added little bows, appliques, shoestring ties, cutouts, long revealing slits, lots of smocking, crystal or accordion pleats, flutter sleeves, and extended ruffles than run from your shoulder almost to your feet."

And let us not forget to mention the most important detail for any dress, romper, shirt or jumpsuit you wear to the track — the all-important pocket.

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Since our purses can't be more than 12-inches in any direction, according to Churchill Down rules, pockets give you a little more space to stash lipstick, sunglasses, cash, or a winning ticket.

How to pick the perfect bag, shoes for your Kentucky Derby outfit

Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Multi-floral cold shoulder sheath from Rachel by Rachel Roy ($119). All clothing and accessories from Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022
Fashion for Thurby at Churchill Downs. Multi-floral cold shoulder sheath from Rachel by Rachel Roy ($119). All clothing and accessories from Von Maur, 7900 Shelbyville Road. March 23, 2022

Just like the hat was originally worn as an accessory to keep the sun off your face, there are other functional items that are part of fashion at the racetrack, too.

Sunglasses are a must-have for a sunny Thurby but they also add a certain pinch of panache to your style. If you have it in your budget, find a pair that matches your outfit or you add a bit of zaniness to your look with a pair shaped like daisies, horseshoes, or hearts.

"Don't forget your purse is another accessory you can play with to add another unique touch to your outfit," Ross said. "I found one at Von Maur in the shape of a tulip and another in rainbow colors in the shape of a heart. There are lots to choose from in Louisville this time of year."

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And what to wear on your feet? Platform soles make a strong return in 2022 and they might actually be comfortable as your walk the bricks at Churchill Downs. Sculpted heels in interesting shapes and square toes are other examples of fresh footwear trends. But whatever you pick, don't forget to toss some flip-flops in your bag for the long walk back to your ride at the end of the day.

A bonus this year, Thurby happens to fall on the same day as Cinco de Mayo. And like Kentucky Derby Week at Churchill Downs, the holiday, which celebrates Mexico's victory over the French Empire, is a festive time wrapped in abundant color. So bring on the bright yellows, blues, and greens, top your outfit off with a winning hat, and head to the track for a double dose of fun on May 5.

Reach Kirby Adams at kadams@courier-journal.com or Twitter @kirbylouisville.

This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: What to wear to Thurby? Here are tips for hats, outfits and colors