The word is out: Hot lunches resume at Gleaners Community Kitchen

CANANDAIGUA — Homemade lasagna is on the menu, but word apparently hadn’t got out yet.

Fewer than a dozen diners enjoyed this stuff of Italian comfort food legend; pre-pandemic, as many as 60 diners might come out to Gleaners Community Kitchen for lunch on a good day.

But, the kitchen — a mission of St. John’s Episcopal Church in Canandaigua since February 1987 — only resumed hot sit-down meals at the start of the month under the guidance of new kitchen manager J.T. Squires, who succeeds the retired Tom Carter.

The lasagna recipe is his mother’s, but the pleasure is all yours.

Hungry diners stood for an opening prayer, after which each table was called up to receive their lunch. The lasagna is one of the best Judy Pratt, a frequent Gleaners customer, has had since the hot lunches were resumed. She also enjoyed the chicken casserole.

Five stars both, she said.

“They were hot and they were good,” Pratt said.

These are the words Squires likes to hear.

“It’s always a compliment when people come up and get seconds and thirds,” Squires said.

Getting to Gleaners

Squires, 37, grew up in Canandaigua, a block down the street from the church, and graduated from Canandaigua Academy in 2003 before moving to New York City, where he found that waiting tables paid more than entry-level advertising and public relations jobs. Soon, he developed a joy for working behind the scenes at restaurants.

“That’s what got me interested in cooking,” Squires said. “Also, growing up with my grandmother and my mother, they were excellent cooks. My mom still cooks a home-cooked meal every night.”

Eventually, in 2020, he graduated from Finger Lakes Community College’s culinary program and landed a job as sous chef at a local winery, except that COVID-19 had other plans and well, no job. But he did go on to complete his bachelor’s degree at SUNY Delhi.

Squires figured he would find work in the Rochester restaurant scene, but a friend recommended that this job would be “absolutely perfect” for him and, apparently, it was. He was hired in mid-July.

The Rev. David Hefling, who is pastor of the church, said Squires stepped right in after Carter’s retirement — Squires acknowledged Carter for his help — and the transition was seamless, even though he had about two weeks to pick it up.

In the process, Squires is putting his own imprimatur on the operation, Hefling said.

“He pulled it together in no time,” Hefling said. “He’s very talented. He’s very organized. We’re just glad he put his name in the hat.”

As for his mission, Squires said he really wants to put out healthy food that is nourishing.

“I want people to take away from here that they had a really great experience and a satisfying meal,” Squires said. “I’m hoping they feel this is a safe environment yet provides quality meals and is a community staple they can really rely on.”

Helping those who need it

Based on the average number of visitors who came in before the pandemic, more than 150,000 meals are prepared annually at Gleaners Community Kitchen, which derives its name from the term for collecting crops left over from farmers’ fields after they had been commercially harvested and serving food made from it to those who need it.

When Gleaners started, there were no other regular feeding programs in Canandaigua, Hefling said. In the 35 years the church has been hosting the program, visitors also have made use of services such as the mending ministry, which fixes up their clothing. Blood pressure checks and flu shots also are done fairly regularly.

And lunch, of course, is served every weekday, with some holiday exceptions. It’s meant for anyone to enjoy, although it’s aimed primarily at the hungry in the community.

“Of course, it’s a socialization site for older folks who are more isolated,” Hefling said. “It may not be a financial thing but it’s a socialization thing, which is important.”

Foodlink provides much of what Squires and staff prepare, and donations from Wegmans and others also are instrumental in keeping this big operation flowing. The church’s community garden supplies fresh produce such as lettuce, green beans, tomatoes, and garlic.

“Local partners and the community have been extremely generous here,” Squires said.

One of Squires’s strengths has been making links to agencies to bring in donations, including farms and markets, Hefling said. He also has been able to attract new volunteer helpers, as well as retain many of the volunteer cooking staff members who share their considerable culinary chops to everyone who shows, regardless of income or background.

“We just have great cooks every day,” Hefling said.

About the food

Squires has an experimental side when it comes to cooking. A stir fry meal is in the works and a French dip sandwich coming. Earlier this week, stuffed peppers proved a delightful surprise to many.

When he cooks for himself, Squires likes to experiment, he said. And some of those experiments may end up on the Gleaners menu.

“I’m really excited to try some new things here,” Squires said. “I really like to get meals that a lot of our guests may not make at home or possibly have not tried. So, it will broaden their horizons and likings and improve their culinary experiences.”

The magic happens in the largest kitchen Squires has worked in.

Equipment such as an eight-burner stove, two ovens and multiple refrigerators and freezers are top-notch and almost brand new, Squires said.

All that, and add all that the Finger Lakes has to offer — he wants to use as many whole, clean foods as he can and stay away from processed foods.

“If we have mashed potatoes, it’s real mashed potatoes,” Squires said.

Back for more

Pratt, who is among those seated at a table sporting real linen table cloths and using real silverware, is an experimental eater, so she and Squires match up well.

Pratt, who comes in every day when the kitchen is open, said she will eat anything that’s put in front of her. If she likes to, great. If not, there’s always tomorrow.

“I can come here and socialize with people and also have a meal at the same time instead of being home alone and fixing my own,” said Pratt. When she’s home, she added, her meal will come from a can — so, bring on the lasagna!

People really missed the hot meals, Hefling said. As the weather grows colder and word gets out, Hefling expects attendance will pick up.

Everyone associated with the kitchen is proud of the work done to provide lunches through the pandemic, Squires said.

But it wasn’t quite the same.

“Not that the lunches we gave out weren’t significant and important to people, but it was the same kind of sandwich every day,” Hefling said. “People really missed it.”

Now, the only fear at lunchtime is the fear of missing out.

Giving people like Pratt a healthy meal option is among the reasons why Squires does what he does.

“I really love being here and seeing my work go to the betterment of the community,” Squires said. “It’s really nice when people come up to you and tell you that they really enjoyed the meal. You know that what you’re doing is improving other people’s lives. That’s really what I take away from this every day.”

To go

Gleaners Community Kitchen has resumed serving free, hot, sit-down meals, Mondays through Fridays. Doors open at 11 a.m. daily, and lunch is served at noon until 1 p.m. The kitchen is behind St. John’s Episcopal Church, 183 N. Main St., Canandaigua. Meals are available to all who are hungry.

This article originally appeared on MPNnow: Gleaners Community Kitchen in Canandaigua resumes serving meals