The years of history behind a beloved Sioux Falls Mexican restaurant: Looking Back

Casa Del Rey is a well-known and beloved Mexican restaurant that has graced our city since 1980, but it may surprise some to know that it is not a Sioux Falls original. It was the seventh incarnation of a restaurant that was the product of a partnership between Don Smith, David Henry, and Jerry Willits.

Chef Don Smith grew up in Denver, Colorado, a city with a good-sized Hispanic population. Smith loved nothing more than trying the traditional foods produced by little mom-and-pop cafes and restaurants in the area. He got a taste for what he liked, which was an authentic representation of Mexican cuisine. He later attended Western State College, where he met David Henry.

Henry was born in Olewein, Iowa and moved to Denver, where he graduated from high school, before attending college at Western State. Dave and Don came across Willits in Colorado. Jerry WIllits was born in Ogden, Utah, and later moved to Santa Maria, California. He graduated from high school and earned an associates degree in Santa Maria before serving in Viet Nam. Upon his return, he worked as a district manager for Shakey’s Pizza in Denver.

The three decided to put together an authentic Mexican restaurant and share it with people in areas that lacked this kind of cuisine. The first restaurant opened in May, 1974 in Rapid City.

The fare at Casa was mildly spiced, but Smith said this was what traditional Mexican food was like before the trail hands in southern Texas began adding chili powder. One of the most popular dishes at Casa Del Rey was, and remains, the Reyrita, a large flour tortilla filled with beef, refried beans, rice, onions, lettuce, and sour cream, rolled and smothered with chili verde. One could also order beer and wine imported from Mexico, a unique treat in the days when the most exotic beer in the state was Coors, smuggled in from Colorado. The food, drink, and atmosphere worked to make Casa a very popular attraction in Rapid City. There was interest enough for expansion.

In 1975, the second Casa Del Rey location opened in Sioux City, Iowa. Additional locations were opened in 1977 in Bismarck, North Dakota, and Billings and Great Falls, Montana. The next location was established in 1979 in Gillette, Wyoming. In June of 1980, a location at 901 W. Russell St. in Sioux Falls began construction, and would open by September. Sioux Falls’ Casa Del Rey, off the beaten path and near the industrial park, became a hot lunch spot and dinner destination. The low lights provided an intimate ambience that made a meal at Casa a pleasant treat. When events at the Arena brought crowds from far and wide, a stop at Casa before or after would fill the parking lot.

Following the opening of the Sioux Falls location were locations in Aberdeen in 1981, Oshkosh Wisconsin in 1982, and an east-side Sioux Falls location in 1995. The Oshkosh location, owned by Craig Riley, a former six year employee, was the only location not owned by any of the original partners.

Of the original ten restaurants, only the Sioux Falls location remains, and it has endured for nearly 44 years. Casa Del Rey lasted in Rapid City for 32 years, and in Sioux City for 37 years. The Gillette location carried on for 33 years.

In October of 2016, Don Smith sold the Sioux Falls location to Cory O’Brien, who had worked his way up from busboy to manager. He studied under the guidance of Chef Don, who will still show up from time to time to help out.

Mexican-inspired food establishments have existed in Sioux Falls since the early 1970s. They are fine if you want to grab something from a window to go, but to really sit down and enjoy yourself, you can’t beat Casa Del Rey, which has consistently served the real deal since 1980.

This article originally appeared on Sioux Falls Argus Leader: Looking Back: Casa Del Rey's storied history goes back decades