How To Double Cleanse Your Way To Better Skin

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Just A Super Useful Guide To Double CleansingFilippo Fortis

There are so many new products launching nowadays that it can be easy to get caught up in the noise, causing you to forget that, actually, nailing the basics is the first step towards healthier skin.

So, in order to get the most benefit out of all those moisturisers, serums and acids you’re using on the reg, you should always ensure you’re cleansing your skin properly, ideally twice, particularly in the evening before you go to bed.

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‘It’s often not enough to cleanse just once, especially if you’re wearing make-up and sunscreen,’ says Melanie Grant, globally recognised aesthetician and Victoria Beckham’s facialist.

What is double cleansing?

As the name suggests, double cleansing is the process of cleansing your skin twice – the first works to remove make-up, while the second actually cleanses skin – and it’s a method that Grant says she’s been a firm believer in for as long as she can remember.

‘To me, it’s the best way to ensure that anything that affects the skin’s own processes of regeneration and renewal – so things like bacteria, pollution, grime and debris that all accumulate throughout the day – are completely removed. The actives in your regime can then penetrate effectively and efficiently,’ she explains.

The benefits of double cleansing

A quick wash and go might seem like the only option at the end of a long day, but experts agree that if you wear a full face of heavy make-up, double cleansing is the best way to ensure your skin is perfectly clean.

A quick swipe with a face wipe will do nothing to properly dislodge foundation and pollution particles, and if all of that is left on your skin overnight, you aren't giving your skin cells the best chance at regenerating. Double cleansing each evening will also brighten dullness, and by incorporating a second, deeper, exfoliating cleanse into any regime will work to help slough away the dead skin cells that are sitting on the surface.

The benefits of double cleansing

As is the key to any good skincare routine, cleansing doesn’t have to be complex. ‘Instead, it just needs to be specific, it needs to allow for consistency and – most importantly – it should start with a solid foundation,’ says Grant.

Grant goes on to explain that in the mornings a gentle cleanse is more than enough to refresh the complexion and remove any sweat, excess oil, cell debris and any residual product from the night before. ‘An oil is usually best,’ she says.

‘Then, in the evening, you can use the same formula to break down sunscreen, make-up and pollution before going in with something a little more active to help boost cell turnover and free the pores of impurities,’ says Grant. ‘I really love AHAs, like lactic acid, in a second cleanse because they’re gentle, hydrating and work well with all skin types – without compromising the barrier function.’

How to double cleanse skin

While there aren’t any hard and fast rules, the aim is to use a cleanser that’ll remove sunscreen and makeup first. ‘For the first cleanse, I love anything nutrient-dense with a high lipid profile,’ explains Grant. ‘This allows the oils in the formula to bind to the oils in your skin, removing the impurities with them.’

However, it all comes down to your own individual skin type and your own personal preferences. Balms are a good option too, and while most products will emulsify with warm water, some heavier textures might require a flannel or muslin cloth to be properly removed. While that’s a good way to incorporate a gentle exfoliation, it might be too harsh for sensitive skin types, and it’s vital to use a clean cloth every day – with each use. ‘Cloths and flannels can harbour a lot of bacteria which can aggravate the skin,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Alia Ahmed.

Then, for the second cleanse, Grant says she tries to avoid anything that has too much of a lather. ‘Surfactants can really strip the skin and disrupt its own oil to water ratio. Traditionally, we’ve been taught to favour a ‘squeaky clean’ feel, but this can actually exacerbate your own oil levels and compromise your skin’s barrier function,’ she explains. In turn, that could leave skin more susceptible to blemishes, dehydration, redness and reactivity.

‘That’s why lactic acid is one of my preferred ingredients for a second cleanse. It can boost cell turnover while gently dissolving any build-up and debris without overstimulating the skin,’ she says. However, it is perfectly fine to use the same cleanser twice rather than investing in two separate products – just make sure you’re spending adequate time massaging it into your skin.

'Taking at least a minute to do a second cleanse will ensure you gain all the benefits from your cleanser and its ingredients,' says Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist based at Self London. 'On average, most people only spend about twenty seconds on cleansing, which isn't enough time to massage the cleanser in properly.'

The most common cleansing mistakes

Despite being a fairly simple task, experts often see patients who make common mistakes when it comes to cleansing. ‘There are two main issues: over-cleansing and not cleansing enough,’ says Grant. ‘The former is often caused by the use of formulas that are too active or too harsh on skin and can be damaging for the complexion, leading to blemishes, dehydration and irritation. They can also significantly accelerate skin ageing thanks to ongoing inflammation and transepidermal water loss.’

‘The latter – under cleansing – can leave the skin dull, lax, coarse, making it more prone to congestion. Without keeping our cell metabolism in check, we're limiting the skin's capacity for collagen renewal. Having a film of dead skin and impurities over the skin also affects the absorption rate of the actives in your serums and creams, so starting with the right foundation really does make a world of difference,’ says Grant.


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