Say yes to everything: From upscale to diners, here's where to eat and drink in Lubbock
Of course we said yes to everything. Why would we not?
My husband, Kip Keller, along with our longtime travel buddy, teacher Lawrence Morgan, and I feasted on the fruits of the land during a four-day trip to Lubbock, when we were not hiking around to explore the city's multitude of tourist sites, as reported in last week's column.
For two days after we returned home to Austin, we continued to dine on delectable leftovers.
It will take some skeptics a moment to adjust to the fact that Lubbock has become a culinary haven of sorts.
Remember that it was Lubbock and its Texas Tech University researchers who started the state's wine metamorphosis, not the owners of the scenic wineries in the Hill Country, who continue to reap the bulk of the oenological tourism.
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And, as an agricultural center since its origins in the late 19th century, Lubbock has long taken advantage of the farming and ranching riches that extend out from the Hub City over the flat Llano Estacado.
A gentle warning: Check and recheck business hours at Lubbock eateries and drinkeries. Perhaps because it was off-season during early July, on several occasions, we arrived during published hours, only to find the doors shut tight. Happily, we always prepared backup options.
Hitting all the right notes: The Nicolett
I would put an evening at this innovative American bistro (511 Broadway), named after Lubbock's first hotel, up against just about any fine-dining experience in the state. The setting is a long, dark, narrow room accompanied by an inviting patio and magical side niches.
We arrived before our three guests — nieces and nephews who now live in Lubbock — so we ordered impeccably mixed cocktails at a long bar. The service was exquisite. Once the younger relatives arrived, we moved to a table for six by an unlit stone fireplace.
Award-winning chef Finn Walter has absorbed influences from previous culinary posts in Paris, Austin, Napa Valley, New Orleans, San Francisco and Santa Fe. Among our selections, inspired by the High Plains ingredients, were magret duck breast, elk tatare, and a dish I've never seen on another menu: lamb neck in the style of brisket with peppercorns, lavender, Texas olive oil potatoes, pickled nopales and olio nuevo.
Heaven on a bun: Evie Mae's BBQ
These days, so much barbecue journalism is published in this state and elsewhere, it's hard to sort out the truth from the hype. One tip you can take to the bank: Evie Mae's BBQ (217 U.S. 62, Wolfforth) is the real deal.
Arnis and Mallory Robbins started their smoked meat business from a food truck, then moved to a roomy new eatery with attendant market located right on the highway southwest of Lubbock. We arrived a little after noon to find a smooth-running line and a supremely relaxed atmosphere.
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I selected the large smoked German sausage sandwich, tangy slaw and a sauce with a bite. They still serve Mrs. Baird's Bread in bagged loaves at the table! I did not save room for the tempting desserts, and, in fact, took much of the sausage sandwich back to our hotel room.
Fit for the setting: The West Table
The lobby of the Pioneer Hotel is a social refuge where almost anything can happen.
The historic building, once called Hotel Lubbock, is clearly a popular meeting place. To one side is Brewery LBK, which readers of USA Today voted the Best Brewpub in the United States in 2021. (More on its brews in a bit.) To another side is a coffee shop which didn't seem operative while we were in town, and a "pocket hotel" with 10 guest rooms to go along with the building's luxury condos.
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On the northeast corner of the lobby is a fine-dining competitor for The Nicolett, which is located down the street. The West Table (1204 Broadway) is larger and noisier than the Nicolett, but the bar service is no less attentive to detail, and our bounteous meal progressed almost without blemish. The menu changes daily, but expect some beef, lamb, fish and duck among the entrees.
Breakfast or lunch at the Rain Cafe
You never know when you are going to run into the perfect American diner. One with brisk, cheerful, egalitarian service; comforting food at most hours of the day; and a convivial social atmosphere where everyone feels welcome to greet guests at the next table.
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We discovered Rain Cafe (2708 50th St.) without help from our local contacts, but at least one of them later confirmed that it was her personal favorite eatery in town. Open for breakfast and lunch in a strip shopping center, it welcomed us at about the brunch hour without a wait for a table, or any of the other fussiness sometimes associated with brunchtime.
The menu more than pleased two passionate omnivores (Kip and I) as well as a judicious vegetarian (Lawrence). Located about three miles south of the Texas Tech campus, it was not dominated by any particular social set, always a blessing.
Eating the state map at Pecan Grill
Our final day in Lubbock tested our ability to find another good breakfast spot near downtown. We decided to go upscale by way of the Pecan Grill in the Overton Hotel, which serves as a conference and banquet center not far from campus.
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By this time, I was wondering about the "Overton" name that graces a nearby neighborhood and this hotel tower. Lo and behold, on the way to the men's room, I discovered a nifty display about Dr. M.C. Overton, the city's first medical doctor, who established the Lubbock Sanitarium just in time to battle the Spanish flu epidemic. He also donated the land for Texas Tech.
I didn't need a doctor to prescribe my breakfast when I saw that the possibility for a Texas-shaped waffle on the menu. Along with two eggs over easy and some decaf, it was everything I craved that morning. (Funny thing: Our waiter served my Texas in reverse. Without remonstrance, I corrected that unpatriotic error immediately.)
Local color all part of the Dirk's Chicken charm
We had heard a lot about Dirk's Signature Chicken & Bar — and nearby Flippers Tavern — and couldn't wait to try them. Flippers, which specializes in all-beef dogs, was closed for repairs, so we headed to Dirk's (1636 13th St.) which occupies a stand-alone downtown spot not far from Broadway and Avenue Q.
The atmosphere is West Texas urban diner: One large dining room lined with cartoons — some, of them related to collegiate athletics — drawn by Dirk West, a former Lubbock mayor known for his Texas Tech cartoons published in the Lubbock Avalanche-Journal. Dirk West was the grandfather of chef Cameron West, who founded casual Dirk's and upscale The West Table.
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We had picked a dining time right before closing, but we heard that Dirk's fills up quickly, especially when there are events downtown. I chose the Nashville Hot Chicken plate, which met my fix for heat, although I can't claim to know how Dirk's compares with the original African American dish from Tennessee. I can confirm that the chicken pieces are enormous — more bounty to take with us.
Full breakfast at Jalisco Taqueria and Restaurant
Like any Texas city, Lubbock is home to countless Mexican and Tex-Mex eateries. Some of the ones recommended in advance by readers were either outlets of already familiar chains, or were located far from our hotel. Jalisco Taqueria and Restaurant (2211 Avenue Q), a neighborhood joint with a loyal local following, was exactly what we needed.
With nested, cool dining rooms, Jalisco provided instant relief from the relentless morning sun outside on Avenue Q. Friends and family greeted each other — and strangers — from booths and tables.
Kip and I each ordered the Patrón Breakfast, a sizzling iron plate of eggs, chorizo, peppers and other goodies. (As usual, I wouldn't have minded a few more shakes of cumin.) It would have been enough body fuel to get us through a long day. Since we had already planned two additional meals, we ate slowly and relished each forkful.
Tastings at Lubbock wineries
If we had just a few more hours in Lubbock — and we will in the future — we would have driven out to the Llano Estacado Winery, whose vineyards helped ignite the modern Texas wine craze. That omission didn't stop us from testing two downtown wineries related to nearby vineyards
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McPherson Cellars Winery (1615 Texas Ave.) near the Buddy Holly Center — not to be confused with Buddy Holly Hall on the other side of downtown — ushers the guest into a tasting room not unlike what one would find out in the fields. The rest of the block-long complex includes an expansive events room and a rambling patio. We sampled the less expensive array of white, rosé and red wine, then took back to the room a crisp Chenin Blanc ($26) and a savory Syrah Block Select ($46).
A couple of days later, we sampled the wares of Berklee Hill Vineyards (1109 Broadway) in a high-ceilinged cafe that formerly served as a historic Kress store. Again, we liked everything we tasted, but decided that we had already purchased enough wine for the rest of our trip.
Visiting these two wineries just skimmed the surface of this area's options.
A tankard or two from local breweries
I mentioned Brewery LBK, but I should make it clear that we did not sample its brews on the premises, which looked happily busy when we dined across the Pioneer Hotel lobby at The West Table. I ordered LBK's mild IPA, however, at Dirk's Chicken and was not disappointed.
On another day, however, we lingered at Two Docs Brewing Co., located in an industrial spot (502 Texas Ave,) in northeast downtown not far from the railroad tracks. Pediatrics specialist Dr. Tyson Purdy and veterinarian Dr. Eric Cunningham are the "docs" behind the project, but more than 25 people work there, according to the brewery's website.
At their open, dog-friendly taproom, I tried their Two Docs Bock, and you can't get more Texan than that. We had wondered what the Two Docs managers meant by a flyer labeled "brews and brunch." Turned out to be a pairing with a food truck out front. In this case, we hit the jackpot with The Shack BBQ, whose generous operator sold us the biggest beef ribs I've ever seen. (Again, more food for later.)
Seeking out cultured coffee shops
As is his custom while traveling, our friend Lawrence wakes at dawn, then heads out for a long solo walk. He hopes to find a good cup of coffee along the way. He reported on three shops near our downtown hotel.
Nashwell Cafe: Art + Solar + Australian Bakery and Cafe (1212 Avenue K): "A pleasantly funky space, full of art and with a cozy co-working space as well as a genuine Australian connection. The coffee was rich and strong, with a pleasant hint of bitterness, perfect for waking up and getting down to work in a comfortable setting."
Monomyth Coffee (2024 Broadway): "A cozy light-filled corner coffee shop on a tree-lined street. Simple, clean contemporary aesthetics combine with a homey floor plan to create rooms comfortable for reading, chatting, working, and, of course, drinking some very well-made coffee in a lovely, relaxing setting."
Paint Rock Coffee (2002 Broadway). "A fun outdoor-indoor mashup with floral murals, hanging basket chairs, chandeliers and lots of entwined greenery, as well as more conventional tables, chairs and velvet-covered comfy furniture. Providing some shady outdoor seating and good Caffe Americano, it's a charmingly off-beat spot to while away the time."
Lawrence added: "The baristas at each place were friendly, helpful and chatty. Very pleasant service."
Michael Barnes writes about the people, places, culture and history of Austin and Texas. He can be reached at mbarnes@gannett.com. Sign up for the free weekly digital newsletter, Think, Texas, at statesman.com/newsletters, or at the newsletter page of your local USA Today Network paper.
Note: An earlier version of this post published the wrong address for McPherson Cellars Winery. It is 1615 Texas Ave.
This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: Lubbock becomes culinary destination: barbecue, diners and fine dining
