Yurts, kettle ponds, canal views: Top spots to camp on Cape Cod, from end to end

Barbara Clark
·5 min read

Recreational camping has become a big-time activity, attracting vacationers of all ages.

America’s wanderlust started just after World War II, when travelers took to the open road, pitching tents and driving RVs, tuning in with Dinah Shore’s iconic “See the USA in your Chevrolet.” Campers today are responding to changing times with new camping modes and ideas.

During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, record numbers of Americans sought outdoor getaways; camping trips spiked 36% between 2019 and 2021 and camping accounted for 40 percent of all leisure trips. Gen Zrs and millennials became the fastest-growing segment of vacationing adults, as people sought safe travel opportunities.

Bill and Sally O'Hearn take in the morning sun outside their camper with dogs Addie, left, and Angus during a week stay at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.
Bill and Sally O'Hearn take in the morning sun outside their camper with dogs Addie, left, and Angus during a week stay at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.

Four state parks offer unique Cape Cod vistas.

Cape Cod offers camping options at four state parks: Nickerson; Shawme Crowell; the tent-friendly Wellfleet Hollow Campground; and Scusset Beach State Reservation, located at the tip of the Cape Cod Canal in Sandwich. A variety of terrain and amenities welcomes day-trippers, transient weekenders and longer stays of up to 14 days, for couples, families, scout groups, church organizations and family reunions.

At 2,000 acres, Nickerson State Park in Brewster is the largest of the Cape’s state campgrounds, with 418 campsites and several yurts. It features eight freshwater kettle ponds that offer swimming, catch-and-release fishing and boating. The Cape Cod Rail Trail intersects at Nickerson, inviting bikers and walkers to explore its 26-mile length. Eric Levy, the park’s field operations team leader, said that COVID-19 introduced many newcomers to camping.

“People wanted to get out of doors,” he said, “and now there’s a whole new demographic” heading out under the open skies.

Shawme Crowell State Forest in Sandwich contains 700 wooded acres, 285 camping sites, and more than 15 miles of hiking trails. Its forest setting contains amenities such as a playground and pavilion. Location, location – it’s less than six miles from Scusset Beach State Reservation with its spectacular canal views, and Shawme shares a border with Heritage Museums and Gardens, where activities and programs are just a hike away.

"Camping allows you to put away a lot of technology, unplug and appreciate what’s important,” Brian Purtle, the forest and park supervisor said.

Campsites start to fill up at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.
Campsites start to fill up at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.

This private campground is the only oceanfront RV resort on Cape Cod.

At the wheel of one of the resort’s golf carts, Karen Fillian, community manager at Sun Retreats RV resort in Dennis Port, indicated points of interest while showing off the spacious private campground, including several new semi-permanent RVs, or park models, many with porches and add-on rooms, ready for their owners.  Originally a campground with facilities for platform tents, it’s currently morphing into an active seasonal resort, now completely RV-tenanted.

“It’s the market,” said Fillian, referring to the rising demand for semi-permanent locations, open from May through October. Residents own their RVs while leasing the property via a seasonal fee.

An on-site coordinator organizes summer events such as a Beach Olympics weekend or canal cruise for residents. It’s also the only oceanfront RV resort on Cape Cod, with 500 feet of private beach on Nantucket Sound. In addition to its 244 full-hookup RV sites, there are several rental cottages for transient use.

Demand for spots grew exponentially during COVID, said Fillian, when there were lots of children around, “enjoying the outdoors even in the rain.”

Atlantic Oaks is close to Outer Cape sights and the fun of Provincetown.

Katie Nussdorfer and her husband Dan co-own Eastham’s Atlantic Oaks Campground. The couple also owns the Shady Knoll Campground in Brewster, set in woodsy Mid-Cape terrain. Each camping facility has 100 spots with a mix of sites for RV and tent camping, with full hookups for on-site amenities.

Katie noted that the popularity of camping has increased in recent years as more people “have discovered the joy of camping.” She cited as much as a 70 to 80% camper return rate, year to year.

Atlantic Oaks offers impressive perks for visitors who want to experience the Outer Cape’s iconic terrain. It’s a quick ½-mile walk to the National Seashore Visitor Center, with its summer-long family programming, and only 1.5 miles to Massachusetts Bay beaches. It abuts the Rail Trail for biking and walking enthusiasts, and for art, eateries and commerce, the center of Provincetown is a 20-mile drive. Nussdorfer touted the venue’s unique camp store, which carries a wide selection of camp gear and clothing, and supports Cape artisans with an array of crafts, jewelry and souvenirs.

A “tidy and clean” campground has been crucial to the success of the venue, as is enhancing the privacy of sites with added bushes and trees. It’s all about customer service, she said.

“We are their concierge.”

Azaleas line the entrance to the office at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.
Azaleas line the entrance to the office at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.

Glamping in Falmouth brings camping to the next level.

Today, new options for camping have been added to the traditional forms, including organized networks and apps offering unique camping locales to paying subscribers, or websites matching private landowners with travelers seeking out-of-the-way spots to pitch tents or park RVs.

A recent addition is the advent of “glamping,” described online as “stunning nature meets modern luxury,” and where campers enjoy spiffed-up tents, independent suites or upscale airstream trailers. Local glamping at AutoCamp Cape Cod in Falmouth offers water views along with a spacious clubhouse for group get-togethers.

Campers start to fill in the sites just beyond the entrance at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.
Campers start to fill in the sites just beyond the entrance at the Atlantic Oaks Campground on Route 6 in Eastham, which opened for the season on May 1.

State parks on Cape Cod: Where can I sign up?

Reservations can be made up until 2 p.m. EST each day but must be made ahead of arrival through ReserveAmerica. Head to https://massdcrcamping.reserveamerica.com/ or dial 877-422-6762.

Nickerson: https://www.reserveamerica.com/explore/nickerson-state-park/MA/32601/overview

Shawme: https://www.reserveamerica.com/explore/shawme-crowell-state-forest/MA/32621/overview

Camping in state parks: dcr.campinginfo@mass.gov

Private campgrounds on Cape Cod:

Sun Retreats, 184 Old Wharf Road, Dennis Port: https://sunretreatsdennisport.com; 508-398-2811.

Atlantic Oaks Campground, 3700 Route 6, Eastham: https://atlanticoaks.com; 508-255-1437.  Shady Knoll info at https://capecamping.com

AutoCamp Cape Cod, 836 Palmer Ave., Falmouth: https://autocamp.com/capecod; 855-203-1518.

This article originally appeared on Cape Cod Times: Cape Cod camp sites: Beaches, state parks, biking, hiking and swimming