Openings, closings and labor shortages made 2023 a big year for Worcester-area restaurants

Happy New Year!

In 2024, we’re ready to celebrate food and drink in the Table Hoppin' column, introducing exciting new restaurants and eateries ranging from high-end cuisine to fast casual and more.

Last year, we witnessed restaurant openings and some closures, reflecting the ongoing challenges faced by businesses. Labor shortages, the difficulty finding and keeping employees, is expected to remain a challenge for the industry nationwide.  “It’s a revolving door,” according to one long-time city restaurateur/executive chef, who said, “If you’re lucky, people will show up for an interview. Most times, they’re a no-show.” If there is an interview, the roles are reversed, he said. “People now ask me, ‘If I don’t show up on a day I’m supposed to work, what will happen?’ They want higher wages and bonuses before they’re even hired.” As for diners, they look for high quality, but they also want value, he said.

One of the most buzzed-about restaurant openings in late 2023 was Kenzo’s Sushi & Steakhouse, 50 E. Main St., Westborough, the former home of Sapporo Korean Barbecue & Sushi. Before the restaurant opened, hundreds of foodies flooded social media with the question, “Where’s Kenzo?” in reference to local sushi chef Kenzo Phan.

Phan held a private soft opening of his restaurant last Halloween, welcoming the public in late November. The completely renovated restaurant has ambiance and atmosphere. Phan said the decoration of his restaurant is extremely important and offers a unique experience to diners who want to enjoy themselves in a cozy and comfortable space.

A chef with a reputation as an innovator and perfectionist, Phan has a huge following. He has helped opened multiple restaurants in Worcester, including the former Haiku, and was sushi chef at Willy’s Steakhouse Grill & Sushi Bar in Shrewsbury for more than 15 years. He also has been a guest chef in restaurants in and out of the state.

In a telephone interview on New Year’s Day, Phan said the Westborough restaurant is busy and he is very appreciative of all the support he has received. The proud owner said he is working very hard in the new business. “I love what I do, and I love our customers,” he said. “They’re the best.”

Phan plans to “reset” his restaurant hours in a couple of weeks due to labor shortage. The restaurant currently is open Tuesday through Sunday. He said in addition to the dinner menu, he’s interested in opening a couple days for lunch, offering lighter fare. But, he has to add employees. Most likely, he will drop Sunday hours, he said, and open Tuesday through Saturday. The restaurant is closed Monday.

Phan continues to look for experienced kitchen help, adding that it’s a nightmare when an employee calls out a couple hours before service begins. “It happened to me this busy New Year’s weekend,” said Phan. “You learn to work through it, and I know I’m not the only owner who is experiencing this problem.”  Phan said he’s willing to put in as many hours as it takes to maintain a successful business. “Again, I want to say thank you to all my customers and my friends, especially people who own restaurants. We all work really hard.”

He said his wife continues to work with him and his sister, who lives in Boston, recently joined the staff. “My sister waitressed for many years and also has business experience,” said Phan.

Visit kenzosushisteakhouse.com for restaurant updates, menus, etc. FYI: Popular dishes include filet mignon and New York strip, in addition to Phan’s Western Indo-China influenced cuisine and sushi. Call (508) 898-1880 for reservations and information about private party bookings.

On the city’s Restaurant Row, Erion Callo opened 185 Bistro, 185 Shrewsbury St., the former site of Mac’s Diner, purchasing the property in 2022. His wife, Esmeralda Callo, works with him in their business. Callo ran the Twisted Fork Bistro in Cherry Valley and has looked to sell the business. He has advertised for servers and cooks since opening 185 Bistro in September.

Worcester’s restaurant and bar scenes are strong, especially in the Canal District. In early December, 1885 at 48 Green St. finally had its grand opening. According to the bar’s Instagram page, the 1885 promised to give customers an elevated cocktail and lounge experience. Owners told news outlets they wanted to bring something different to Worcester “without scaring people away and wanted to give Worcester residents a taste of what they’ve seen outside the city.”  As for food, it’s lighter fare. Don’t expect a full menu. More details about the business in a future column.

Some of the new businesses in the Canal District: Femme Bar, a bar and grill catering to LGBTQ+Women, 62 Green St., former location of Buck’s Whiskey & Burger Bar; Blackstone Herbs and Martini Bar, 102 Green St., replacing Hangover Pub and Broth; Boland’s Bar and Patio, an Irish Bar, opened last February in the former Rock Bar space, 81 Water St.; 107 TAP, 107 Water St.; Bombay Lounge Indian Bar and Restaurant, 64 Water St., former home of Maddi’s Cookery and TapHouse.

New vendors at the Worcester Public Market include executive chef/owner Elie Aswad of All in Poke and Afia Omar of Afia’s Kitchen. Julio C. Roque, owner of Havana Nights Restaurant & Lounge in Worcester announced last November he would open Little Havana, a quick service restaurant at the public market. He promises a counter-service experience that you might get approaching the “ventanita” (walk-up window) in Little Havana, Miami. Also, a local executive chef is looking to open a Korean restaurant at the market.

Havana Nights Restaurant & Lounge, 258 Park Ave. and Mia Cane Juicery and Acai Bar, 261 Park Ave. are among newly established businesses.

Maker to Main is new to Harding Street in Worcester. Owner Lynn Cheney closed her original store on Main Street, Worcester, in March, opening a larger, more complete grocery store in the former location of Harding Glass, 166 Harding St. Locally sourced food and a deli are featured. Prepared foods from Maker to Main’s kitchen also are available, with local chef William (Bill) Nemeroff in charge. A plus for the business is customer parking in lot next to Maker to Main building.

Root & Press Coffee and Books at 623 Chandler St., Worcester is closed for relocation, according to its website. The business will move to 156 Shrewsbury St., Worcester, with opening date to be announced.

Openings on the west side of the city include Black Sheep Bah-Bah-Q & Kitchen, 393 Chandler St.; Worcester Sweets Café, 649 Chandler St.; The Cozy Bakery & Coffee, 1094 Pleasant St.; Joe Cannoli’s Bakery, 1130 Pleasant St.

It’s impossible to list every opening and closure, in and out of the Worcester area, but there’s no doubt diners look forward to Worcester’s Mezcal Tequila Cantina’s move to 11 East Central St., former home of the Ninety Nine Restaurant & Pub. Mezcal, a Niche Hospitality Group restaurant, is currently located on Major Taylor Boulevard, Worcester.

Chef Ednardo Cardoso has yet to announce the opening date of his restaurant on the ground level of the Union Station Garage on Franklin Street in Worcester. Cardoso is an owner of 2 Chefs Italian Restaurant and Bar on West Boylston Street in Worcester.

Also, the relocation of Chuck’s Steakhouse in Auburn will be newsworthy. In late November, Chuck’s owners Steve Londregan and Tom Flynn announced they were considering a $4 million offer by the town of Auburn for the three-acre property, possible site of new headquarters for the Auburn Fire Department.

Food for thought: More and more, people are using social media sites and blogs to give feedback on restaurants, sharing their experiences, good and bad. A recent study conducted by OpenTable highlights that 80 percent of restaurant owners say they have difficulty filling positions. Keep it in mind, especially if you have never worked restaurants.

I look forward to what 2024 has in store in the world of food and restaurants.

There’s speculation that Worcester’s Best Chef will return in 2024. WBC creator and producer Domenic Mercurio has previewed venues and reports there is a great deal of interest from chefs and restaurateurs about participation. The last WBC competition was held before the pandemic.

Stay tuned!

Holiday spirit

Restaurants and businesses on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester “donated generously” for the 2023 holiday lights project, according to John Piccolo, president of the Shrewsbury Street Merchants Association. Private donations also helped defray costs, he said.

“Businesses got together to expand this year’s festive decorations,” he said. “The street was lit up, and we got positive feedback from the public. It has been great.”

If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com. 

This article originally appeared on Telegram & Gazette: Table Hoppin': 2023 was a year of change for Worcester restaurants