West Allis bakery sells tasty desserts and highlights history of Black culinary inventors

If West Allis bakery owner Shane Rowe Sr. asks, "Who did one of the first American television cooking shows?" he knows many people will likely incorrectly answer Julia Child or Martha Stewart.

Rowe, of Milwaukee, would tell them the correct answer: Lena Richard.

"She had the first cooking show before Martha Stewart," Rowe said.

Richard was the first Black person to host a cooking show on television. An NBC affiliate aired “Lena Richard’s New Orleans Cook Book.” It ran in 1949 and 1950. It likely would have lasted longer, but Richard died unexpectedly in November 1950.

At his bakery Bishop's Sweets, Rowe has a "Wall of Inspiration" with photos, sketches and descriptions of Black leaders, inventors and entrepreneurs in the culinary field. When customers come into Bishop's Sweets, he likes how the wall inspires people to learn about their backgrounds.

"I do not believe they have gotten the credit they rightfully deserved," Rowe said. His wall of nearly 30 people is to educate and inspire people year-round — not just during February's Black History Month. "There is so much to gain and learn from them," he said.

In the center of the wall, Rowe boasts his hugest inspiration, the person who inspired him to begin his baking business: "My mother," he said.

Rowe said he uses the recipes of his mother, Wilma Jo Abercrombie, to share with his customers.

'Cooking my mother's recipes brought me joy'

Throughout Rowe's professional career, which includes chain restaurant and retail management, he never really baked throughout his career. It was not until he was a live-in caregiver for his mother when she had cancer, that he started baking everything she requested.

At first, when she would request a baked item, he would reply, "I don't know how to make it." To start, he prepared easier items — such as strawberry shortcake — and she would be in the kitchen coaching him.

"She would say, 'Just follow the instructions.'" When she could no longer come to the kitchen due to her illness, she would request Rowe to bake something for her. Rowe would concentrate on making it perfect for her.

"I wanted to please my mom," he said.

And he got better.

He became so good he posted pictures of what he baked on his Facebook page, and many offered to buy his goods. He refused at first, saying the goal was just to do it for his mother.

After his mother died in August 2018, Rowe said he "kind of went into a depression." But a friend suggested to Rowe that since baking for his mother brought Rowe joy, "Why not continue to do that?"

Good advice, Rowe thought.

Then, when people offered to pay him to bake for them, Rowe accepted.

He then pushed himself further, opening Bishop's Sweets in October 2020. He made his mother's traditional pies including sweet potato, key lime, coconut cream, banana and Dutch apple. Other dessert items he currently makes and sells include blueberry and strawberry cheesecake, banana pudding and peach cobbler.

"My mother was the best baker, no one could touch her sweet potato pie," he said.

In 2021, Rowe received his degree in culinary management from Waukesha County Technical College. He's on track to complete his MBA online through Southern New Hampshire University in July.

'It does not rain all the time'

Although Rowe was inspired to open his business, there were setbacks along the way.

After he discovered the perfect location in West Allis and spent time and funds opening Bishop's Sweets, he faced the most obvious setback: COVID-19.

Rowe, who lived and grew up in Milwaukee, signed a lease for a West Allis retail space that was perfect, but at that point, not many people were willing to do in-person shopping. Instead of panicking, he relied on the inspirational advice that his mother, who raised eight kids as a single mother, always gave him: "It does not rain all the time."

And things worked out. The nearby Aurora West Allis Medical Center put in large orders to provide treats for staff. As people were encouraged to support larger businesses, he had churches and other companies place large orders. "I had supportive people and enough to pay the rent each month," he said.

A year into his business, he lost $800 of inventory when his refrigerator failed. Again, he thought of his mother's words. A customer then set up a GoFundMe and within three hours, enough funds were raised to replenish the inventory."There are times, I am down. I will look at the wall and see her smiling and saying, 'You can do this.'" he said. Rowe also finds the importance of using his mother's inspiration to help others.

When two small West Allis businesses, Piece of Love, a bakery, and Anthony's Appliances were victims of a vehicle hit and run that left substantial harm to their businesses, Rowe did not open his business and instead posted on his business Facebook page that customers should patronize and support those businesses instead.

"I never met the owners, but my heart went out to them," said Rowe. "I closed for the day. Their issue today can be my issue tomorrow. I believe the community would have rallied to help me."

'They've all made major contributions to the culinary world'

When Rowe was in culinary school, he said he could probably count on one hand the number of Black culinary leaders and inventors. But as he researched more chefs, he realized many had an impact in the field. Besides showcasing them in his restaurant, he features them on his business Facebook page.

Rowe said he is inspired by their "tenacity." "Their commitment to see vision brought to fruition," he said. "They've all made major contributions to the culinary world; contributions that we still use today." He said he enjoys sharing these inspirational stories with his customers.

A local educator does the same.

Claude Grant, principal of the K-8 Academy of Excellence school in Milwaukee, shares these stories with his students when possible.

"I like just looking at the history of different African American bakers and what they contributed to the American history of cooking," said Grant. "I learned that cooking has different stories from different cultures and each one has a different story."

Grant said he emphasizes to his students the importance of people's stories. "No story is too small to add to history," he added.

One of these stories on the wall at Bishop's Sweets is that of Anna Mangin, a Black educator, caterer and businesswoman. She invented the pastry fork in 1891 which could be used for cutting excess pie dough, although Rowe said it has many uses.

Rowe also has a picture of Joseph Lee, who owned two successful restaurants and invented a bread crumbling machine that was patented in 1894.

Rowe said he plans to continue to add to his wall while sharing his mother's recipes.

"She would be so proud," said Rowe. "I know my mom is smiling ear to ear."

Where is Bishop's Sweets located?

Bishop's Sweets is at 8005 W. Lincoln Ave., West Allis.

What are Bishop's Sweets hours?

Bishop's Sweets hours are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday.

How can I contact Bishop's Sweets for catering or to place an order?

Anyone can contact Bishop's Sweet on its Facebook page at www.facebook.com/BishopsSweets, Instagram at www.instagram.com/bishopssweets, X at twitter.com/BishopsSweets or by calling 414-763-2436.

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Cathy Kozlowicz can be reached at 262-361-9132 or cathy.kozlowicz@jrn.com. Follow her on X at @kozlowicz_cathy

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Bishop's Sweets bakery in West Allis showcases Black culinary icons